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  #1  
Old July 31st, 2013, 10:59 AM
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need alternative light bases

Finished testing the entire wiring harness for my truck ex-situ prior to install. Everything works but the cheap Series plastic light bases are literally melting under the heat of the 1156/1157 bulbs.

Looking for alternatives, I found full-up LED replacements for $300 from Bolt on Bits and Powerful UK Ltd.

The other alternative is DA1080 which are 300tdi light bases, about $45 from Trevor.

Does anyone use the 300tdi DA1080 light bases? Do they melt under the heat of 1156/1157 bulbs? Are these older light bases all junk and should I go straight to dedicated LED?

What kind of connector do the DA0180 light bases use?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old July 31st, 2013, 11:03 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Ed I am interested in this too. Would like to go all LED but retain the same exterior look on my IIA project.
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  #3  
Old July 31st, 2013, 11:13 AM
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Charles,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-RDX-LED-ST...item5aee113bf6

These seem like the most cost effective so far. At $215 shipped, it is essentially $26 / light, which is cheaper than the cost of bases + bulbs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-RDX-ALL-CL...item35c3ec48fe

These are slightly more expensive but are "all clear" as opposed to colored.
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  #4  
Old August 5th, 2013, 10:13 AM
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Does anyone have any reviews of or experiences with the boltonbits Ebay RDX LED lights?

Collin? I know you have a set up for sale, perhaps you have an idea of how well they perform?
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  #5  
Old August 5th, 2013, 10:32 AM
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i have done a set on amity90's truck and there very well made and has factory connectors , the resisted relay works very well when dialed in
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  #6  
Old August 5th, 2013, 11:31 AM
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thanks much, Chris.
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  #7  
Old August 5th, 2013, 11:33 AM
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Does anyone know what the differences are to make it fit a 2a? The listing says it works for a series 3 but would need mods for a 2a
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  #8  
Old August 5th, 2013, 01:08 PM
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Very strange. I've never had a series lens melt except when I used halogen bulbs.
In any case, aren't the 56/57 base LED bulbs so you don't have to replace your entire housing?
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  #9  
Old August 5th, 2013, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
Very strange. I've never had a series lens melt except when I used halogen bulbs.
In any case, aren't the 56/57 base LED bulbs so you don't have to replace your entire housing?
Hey tom, not the lens itself, but the base (the white plastic that holds the bulb against the contacts). The heat of the bulb actually melts the bayonet base causing the bulb to "slip out" of the bayonet.

Yes, the 1156/1157 base LED bulbs allow the use of old bases, but my reasoning is that if the RDX one-piece LEDs are good, then the total cost for 8 lights (and reliability) is better than retrofitting for 1156/57-base LEDs.
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  #10  
Old August 6th, 2013, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Hey tom, not the lens itself, but the base (the white plastic that holds the bulb against the contacts). The heat of the bulb actually melts the bayonet base causing the bulb to "slip out" of the bayonet.
that's equally strange, never had those melt either. If they melted I guess you have no choice but replace them, but I'd make sure you have clean contacts. It sounds like something, other than just the bulbs, is causing excessive heat.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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  #11  
Old August 6th, 2013, 09:41 AM
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I have had the same problem before.
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  #12  
Old August 9th, 2013, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I have had the same problem before.
I have just received a full set of RDX LED lamps from boltonbits. (red brake, clear indicators, clear running lights). Quality seems good, the units are completely sealed and ultrasonically welded.

I tested all lights and all are operational.

The brake lights and turn signals are very bright. The running lights are not as bright as I would like, but I would take dimmer lights that last over brighter lights that can lead to thermal degradation of the LEDs.

On-axis brightness is significantly higher than off-axis brightness. The lamps are less than 3W power draw each, meaning around 250mA.

I will post pictures as soon as they are installed.
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  #13  
Old August 12th, 2013, 08:01 AM
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Height: ~1 5/16"
Diameter: ~ 2 7/8"
Mounting screw hole-to-hole spacing: ~2 1/8"
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  #14  
Old August 12th, 2013, 11:15 AM
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Law enforcement is starting to pay more attention to lighting.
You might want to consider returning the indicator lights and getting amber or red which are the only colors allowed per FMVSS 108.
They shouldn't charge you anything to exchange since they are sold you something that doesn't meet the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard.
Same for the marker lamps.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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62 88 Regular
67 109 6cyl NADA x2
74 Lightweight - The Antichrist
95 DI 5-speed
95 D90 5-speed
97 D1 Automatic
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  #15  
Old August 12th, 2013, 11:43 AM
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Thanks guys. Correct, the leds are amber, the housing is clear.

I ran the same clear housing/amber bulb setup with the old knackered lamp bases.
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  #16  
Old August 12th, 2013, 12:13 PM
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Yeah, that's true on clear lens/amber bulb. I wasn't "clear" on that from reading the post.
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Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

62 88 Regular
67 109 6cyl NADA x2
74 Lightweight - The Antichrist
95 DI 5-speed
95 D90 5-speed
97 D1 Automatic
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  #17  
Old August 12th, 2013, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
Yeah, that's true on clear lens/amber bulb. I wasn't "clear" on that from reading the post.
Good call, Tom. Can't be too careful!
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  #18  
Old August 19th, 2013, 10:17 AM
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I installed and tested out the lights and they look fantastic. Very bright tailights, brake lights, turn signals.

The turn signals are indeed amber, but they are a "paler" shade of amber than typical yellow signals. It's actually rather pleasing aesthetically.

The sidelights (aka fogs) are the only slight disappointment: They are dimmer than I would like. I would have preferred Porsche-style blindingly bright LEDs, but these are less obtrusive. Still, they do the job.

Will take pictures tonight once the dash is back on, the wires are tucked away, and I can call the wiring of my truck complete.
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  #19  
Old August 26th, 2013, 09:36 AM
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Pichers for Jeff

On-axis

Off-axis

Rear brake lights. Those are the brake lights in the "tail-lamp" setting. When the brakes are pushed, the brightness easily doubles.

The sidelights (the front white LED's on the top row) are barely visible in bright sunlight. They are really not particularly bright, but at dusk/night, they are ok.
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