NAS D-110 Heated Winshield Blows Fuses - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 29th, 2006, 11:36 PM
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Question NAS D-110 Heated Winshield Blows Fuses

Gentlemen and Ladies,

My NAS D-110 heated windshield cracked from a stone chip recently and I had it replaced with a Genuine OE item. Prior to the glass replacement it did not appear to work.

I tried it once, since the replacement, and blew a fuse. Yesterday I checked the wiring connections at the top three ribbon connductor strips and it appeared that the source wires were correct: power supply (middle ribbon) and ground (left and right ribbons). A voltmeter showed +11 volts (or so) on the center supply line. The ohmmeter showed 9 ohms resistance on either left or right side from the center conductor.

I replaced the fuse. I pushed it again and got a heartwarming click behind the dash. The internal lamp lit briefly but a relay or temperature sense device kept it from staying on. I thought that was because it was too warm during the day for it to activate.

Tonight I tried it when the glass was cool and had a little condensation on it. The first several times I pushed the switch without the engine on; the switch lit and then went out quickly as the relay (?) kept cutting out. Then I turned the engine on; when I activated the switch it blew the fuse again.

It appears that there is a short somewhere, perhaps in the relay portion of the wiring. It appears to happen only when the engine is on.

Any ideas from the bright folks on the forum?

Dennis Yard
San Diego (LR Club of San Diego)
1993 D-110
1995 Disco I
2002 Freelander
2004 Disco II
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  #2  
Old October 29th, 2006, 11:44 PM
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Might also be a problem in the control box for the front heating element. not 100% sure where it is located though.

-Hans
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  #3  
Old October 30th, 2006, 10:10 AM
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The heated screen in a 110 is wired through an oil pressure switch, so the engine has to be running, otherwise the relay will drop out after a few seconds.

The wiring for the set up is that the RH ribbon is the power input, the middle and the LH ones are grounds. So wired the way you have it you are dead shorting the system and therefore blowing the fuse.
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  #4  
Old October 30th, 2006, 10:38 AM
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Mike and Hans,

Thank you for the quick replies. I will re-investigate the wiring to the ribbon conductors and see what's up with that.

This is good info......

Dennis
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Old November 4th, 2006, 07:03 PM
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Mike and Hans,

A re-check of the windshield supply wiring confirmed my earlier measurements of +12 V on the center tab and grounds on the left and right tabs. This is with key on but no engine on.

I also measured 6 ohms or so from the center windshield tab to either left or right tabs (all disconnected from the wiring loom).

I turned the engine on and connected center tab to +supply voltage and then one outboard tab at a time. I got +12 V from center to each outboard tab. The fuse did not blow and the window warmed up. I left the tabs and connectors dangling. I ran the engine for a few minutes with the windshield switch on.

Tomorrow AM I will turn it on again and see if the fuse lasts. If so, then will push the wiring back under the headliner and see if that causes a blown fuse.

Thanks for the helpful advice. I wonder why my wiring is contrary to Mike's info?

Well in any case lets see what real world brings...

Dennis
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Old November 4th, 2006, 08:47 PM
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Dennis, don't feel to bad. The wiring in my main fuse box, under the hood, doesn't match up with the wiring diagrams from Land Rover either. The 30amp socket had the 60amp wiring. The 60amp socket had the 30amp wiring. That was fun to figure out, stuck on the side of the road.

-Hans
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  #7  
Old November 5th, 2006, 09:50 PM
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Well gang,

Real world is that the I started the engine and turned the windshield heater switch on this morning. The screen started getting warm, but the fuse blew a couple of minutes into the warmup. So I still have "issues".

Stay tuned for the next exciting episode of As The Fuse Blows.

Dennis Yard
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Old November 6th, 2006, 08:30 AM
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The wiring on an NAS 110 can be varied (you should see the differences in their tail harnesses from one to another). The majority of them have an orange and slate wire with 2 grounds to power the windscreen. Yours might be the other type that has the grey wire for power and 2 grounds.
The relay and timer for the unit is behind the RH dash (you have to remove the grey dash panel for access) but check that a screw didn't go through one of the wires on the RH inetrior windscreen trim or something.
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