NAS 90 Brake Caliper question - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 9th, 2015, 09:00 PM
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NAS 90 Brake Caliper question

Has anyone ever separated the 2 halves of the front calipers? Do you know if there is a gasket between the 2 pieces or is it metal on metal?
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  #2  
Old January 9th, 2015, 09:16 PM
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Little rubber o ring guys.
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  #3  
Old January 9th, 2015, 09:44 PM
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Thanks!
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  #4  
Old January 12th, 2015, 02:52 PM
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I'm going to piggyback on Paul's thread since he just posted it...I just discovered a small weep/leak on my front right caliper on the NAS. I'm assuming it's coming from the lower piston based on a quick look, as it appears to be weeping from the brake pad pin area at the top, and also collecting or weeping from the bottom of the caliper.

I'm going to pull the wheel later today and have a closer look as well, but my questions are essentially:
1) are these rebuild-able, and if so best place for parts to do so.
2) my understanding is that the NAS calipers are "special", so I wasn't sure if a remove & replace was an option instead of rebuild...
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Old January 12th, 2015, 03:57 PM
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Upon inspection, appears to be the lower piston seal as thought per the below. Planning to go with just the caliper reseal kit #AEU2539.
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  #6  
Old January 12th, 2015, 04:31 PM
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Rebuilding calipers is a shitload of work unless you can sandblast the halves. Its just a bitch cleaning them up that's all.

Couple of pointers...

Don't even think about doing it without splitting the halves.

Plan on getting all new pistons and don't forget the seals that go in between the two halves. Two per caliper for the unvented setup, perhaps 4 for the ones with spacers from the vented brakes?

Get extras of the seal kits too, the little metal retainers can get jacked up. I also liberally apply permatex disc caliper lube to everything before reassembly.

There is a torque spec on lr4x4 for the bolts holding the calipers together.

Given the cost of rebuilt calipers I'm not sure I will do it again...
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  #7  
Old January 12th, 2015, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Rebuilding calipers is a shitload of work unless you can sandblast the halves. Its just a bitch cleaning them up that's all.

Couple of pointers...

Don't even think about doing it without splitting the halves.

Plan on getting all new pistons and don't forget the seals that go in between the two halves. Two per caliper for the unvented setup, perhaps 4 for the ones with spacers from the vented brakes?

Get extras of the seal kits too, the little metal retainers can get jacked up. I also liberally apply permatex disc caliper lube to everything before reassembly.

There is a torque spec on lr4x4 for the bolts holding the calipers together.

Given the cost of rebuilt calipers I'm not sure I will do it again...
Every thing I've seen/read (and done previously....albeit on other vehicles and not a Defender) why can't I just pop out the pistons with some compressed air, clean up, replace seals (assuming pistons are ok), and reassemble and be back in business?
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  #8  
Old January 12th, 2015, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Every thing I've seen/read (and done previously....albeit on other vehicles and not a Defender) why can't I just pop out the pistons with some compressed air, clean up, replace seals (assuming pistons are ok), and reassemble and be back in business?
That works if the bores are in good shape. I don't know if they are still available, but there were stainless steel Pistons available at one point. Also, stick with name brand seal kits. I rebuilt some back in the day as you describe and did not split the calipers. Now I spend exorbitant sums and buy new genuine. Remans are hit or miss.

Based on that pic, you need new pistons.
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  #9  
Old January 12th, 2015, 04:43 PM
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It just sucks if you get the pistons out and they are pitted and you don't have new ones. The odds of none of them being pitted is pretty small. Pistons are cheap and having the caliper split in half makes it a lot easier to get it all cleaned up and put back together properly. The metal seal retainers for the dust seal need to be tapped or pressed in. Hard to do with the caliper still together

FYI, I got all my replacement bits from Rovah Farm, they even had the square o-ring for the caliper halves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Every thing I've seen/read (and done previously....albeit on other vehicles and not a Defender) why can't I just pop out the pistons with some compressed air, clean up, replace seals (assuming pistons are ok), and reassemble and be back in business?
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  #10  
Old January 12th, 2015, 05:29 PM
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Dave, are you saying you wouldn't rebuild them yourself, or you would? Assuming ability/willingness to separate and sandblast them.
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Old January 12th, 2015, 05:42 PM
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If you are going to rebuild them, get the stainless piston kit. Google is your friend. You should plan on a proper full rebuild. These are important parts of the truck and not something to half ass....

IMO, it is a hell of a lot less work to buy OEM calipers.... They are not that expensive.
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Old January 12th, 2015, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post

IMO, it is a hell of a lot less work to buy OEM calipers.... They are not that expensive.
You may be right...I'll see if I can find someone domestically that has the Lockheed calipers to see what pricing looks like. I'd be all of $100+ into the stainless rebuild kit, I'm sure the caliper itself is only like $150 or so.

Regardless, I'm going to finish pulling the caliper tonight and put it on the bench and pop the pistons out for examination. *If* they are looking ok, I may try to do just the seals. If they look at all suspect, I'll do either the pistons or swap in a new caliper.
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  #13  
Old January 13th, 2015, 05:04 PM
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Jason, your pistons are shot based on the photos you sent. Even if they are ok, they aren't going to get any better over time. Sure stainless are nice. I used regular ones. Charles, yes I would do it again but it took hours and calipers aren't that expensive. A sandblaster would do wonders to speed up the job.
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Old January 13th, 2015, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Jason, your pistons are shot based on the photos you sent. Even if they are ok, they aren't going to get any better over time. Sure stainless are nice. I used regular ones. Charles, yes I would do it again but it took hours and calipers aren't that expensive. A sandblaster would do wonders to speed up the job.
Got 2 sets of stainless pistons & extra seal kit (in case I jack up the metal rings during install) coming for <$150. Going to rebuild just the pistons/seals/retaining ring and see how it goes.
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Old January 13th, 2015, 05:49 PM
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Sure stainless are nice. I used regular ones.
It depends where you live, I suppose, and if you drive in the winter. Rust seized pistons are very common here where they salt the roads.
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Old January 13th, 2015, 05:57 PM
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No doubt. They last a little longer here I suspect though admittedly I just cheaped out. It happens. If I get 5 years out of em I'll be happy.

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It depends where you live, I suppose, and if you drive in the winter. Rust seized pistons are very common here where they salt the roads.
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Old January 18th, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Quick update on this (even though yes, I realize this is actually Paul's thread : ). Rebuilt front passenger using stainless pistons & new genuine seal kit - all went well.

Rebuilt the front driver side, but tried to use the "standard" seal kit included with the stainless pistons - the generic seal kit is complete garbage. There is absolutely no way to get the outer "wiper seal" to seat properly in the outer metal ring, and I'm not crazy about the way the inner seal sits in either (seems to have more room to move around than the genuine seals do). I've read about similar issues from others with the OEM seal kits, and there's no way you can get the outer wiper seal into the metal retaining ring. And, even if you did...I wouldn't trust it to stay seated on the piston. So...ordered another genuine seal kit, hopefully should be here this week so I can finish the job.

Also replaced the rear calipers with new Lockheed units, opted not to rebuild those but rather just remove & replace. So it'll be a good comparison on the fronts rebuilt using stainless pistons versus R&R with new standard calipers on the rear.

As others have chimed it, and I agree, it's probably not worth the "effort" to rebuild the units UNLESS you are going to go stainless pistons. Otherwise just R&R the calipers and be done with it. However, if you are going stainless pistons then I'd say definitely just spend the time and rebuild them using a genuine seal kit #AEU2539. In theory, if I need a future rebuild I should be able to just cleanup and reuse the stainless pistons and order a new genuine seal kit for ~$10 per side...far cheaper than $175 for a new Lockheed caliper.
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  #18  
Old January 18th, 2015, 03:57 PM
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Jason, are you keeping or disposing your old rear calipers? I'll buy them if you don't want them
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Old January 18th, 2015, 04:00 PM
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Jason, are you keeping or disposing your old rear calipers? I'll buy them if you don't want them
I was contemplating rebuilding them with stainless pistons and throwing them in the box of spares, or for "next time". However, are yours toast or beyond repair? I could probably be talked out of them if need be .
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  #20  
Old January 18th, 2015, 04:05 PM
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No, mine are fine. Was going to do the same thing as you (rebuild as spares), not that I don't have enough stuff one plate already.

If you decide you don't need them let me know
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