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NAS 110 temp gauge update to remove signal conditioner

4K views 50 replies 14 participants last post by  bjf 
#1 ·
So,

I read this:

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/signalconditioner.html

and I pull the signal conditioner.

Then I see this:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/showpost.php?p=225964&postcount=1

And I buy a 94 (I think, date stamp is 3793 ie July 3, 1993) gauge from Davis.

And I buy a 94/95 sender from RN for $30.

I swapped the gauge, but the old gauge looks exactly like the one I took out (can't quite see the sticker to read the part number, but it looks close and no date stamp). Are the internals different or did I spend money buying something I already had?

TYIA.

Ron
 
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#4 ·
The internals of the guage are different.
You will need the white temp sender too.
 
#17 ·
I bought a gauge out of a 94 NAS D90 and the white sendor. It showed up, it looked NOS but it was genuine. IIRC it was $40 for the sendor and whoever sold me the gauge gave me a good deal.

Easy to do, but you have to pull the cluster to get to the gauge.

Ron
 
#23 ·
Yep I used #310 105 and 323 417 for the sender. A lot of coolant comes out so I had the other sender with washer ready to go once the old one came off. Definately prepare for a mess ahead of time. The only pain is of course bleeding the air out. This is what I do, i park the truck in an incline (my driveway) then I put funnels on both the radiator fill hole and the heater hose fill hole, this way when I squeeze the upper hose to get the bubbles out, the fluid dosen't spill all over the truck and ground, it just rises out of the funnel along with those pesky bubbles.
 
#26 ·
Considering how easy it really is, (about an hour of work) and how fun it is, I would recommend you just do it yourself and save the money you could spend on labor/time.
 
#28 ·
Thats what old blankets and pillows are for. I know you live in a fancy area but if you ever come upon an old couch grab the pillows for its absorption properties hehe
 
#30 ·
You say that as if i was this rich mrs havisham like geezer living in the north wing of the Raymond Hotel.
 
#34 ·
I too put in the VDO sender and guage pairing.
I don't see it reading correctly either, as per Mike (ECR), in that it reads 200 for a normal running temp, when i have a 180 thermostat. The guage reads 220 when the themostat cuts in upon intial warm up.

The engine is a newly installed 4.6 block, new four row re-cored radiator, thermostat and water pump.

Dennis
 
#35 ·
Yeah what Mike said but I really don't know. On the board I have heard good things. So for yours it reads 200 when it is really 180 or the other way around? I talked to Eric at trailhead and he said his is off by 20 degrees but he knows this. He didn't change the sender and said that his always reads off by 20 because of the sender.

Did you remove the conditioner?
 
#36 ·
Yes, removed the signal conditioner at the same time.

Sorry to be clear: the guage reads 200 when the coolant should be at 180.

I really should buy a remote reading "laser" thermoeter and try it out in different scenarios and block locations to get a better picture.
 
#38 ·
Huh, weird. I put the VDO gauge & sender in last summer and it's been spot on. Normal operating temp is 185. On long hill climbs in the mountains it'll peak at about 210-215, and then quickly cool down. This on a 150k mi 3.9, which is currently being replaced with a 4.6. We'll see how it reads then.
 
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