NAS 110 T support door seal lip - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 23rd, 2008, 06:34 PM
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NAS 110 T support door seal lip

My T support door seal lips are rusting.
Can I just get rid of the rusted door seal lips?
I'm moving the seals to the bottom of the doors.

All NAS D90s and european 110s don't have these seal lips.
I checked the ECR website and they replace these with stainless steel versions.
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  #2  
Old January 24th, 2008, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surf110
I checked the ECR website and they replace these with stainless steel versions.
Not anymore.
We now eliminate the sill seal completely and install the later Euro style seals on the bottoms of the doors. Its a nasty dirt catch and even with the SS trim it still held dirt and your feet rip the seal. Delete the whole mess and put the seals on the bottoms of the doors like a newer 110. IMO.
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  #3  
Old January 24th, 2008, 10:30 AM
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As always, thanks Mike. Do you have a picture of that fab?
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  #4  
Old January 24th, 2008, 11:04 AM
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That's what I was thinking but wanted to confirm with the "Rover Gurus".
Thanks Mike.
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  #5  
Old January 24th, 2008, 02:05 PM
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Mike, are the updated door-bottom seals an easy retro on the NAS 110s (i.e. is this a diy item) and are they (the seals) easliy sourced in the US. Thx, d
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Old January 27th, 2008, 10:55 PM
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Go to remove one of the seal lips this weekend and the sill itself is heavily rusted, almost all the way through in certain areas.

Do I need to replace the whole T support (door frame assembly as RN calls it) or can I cut away the rusted areas and weld some fresh metal on there?
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  #7  
Old January 28th, 2008, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surf110
Go to remove one of the seal lips this weekend and the sill itself is heavily rusted, almost all the way through in certain areas.

Do I need to replace the whole T support (door frame assembly as RN calls it) or can I cut away the rusted areas and weld some fresh metal on there?
If you're serious about the rust, then get some new T-frames, get them galvanized and replace them. They'll ALWAYS rust no matter what you do to them. They're a funky design in a bad location and they'll hold water salt mud whatever in the tiniest nooks and I don't care how you paint them they're still gonna rust.

Anything you do will be a temporary band-aid. Get 'em galvy'd and be done with it.

Yes, it will be a major PITA, but you have an expensive truck. Fix it right IMO and fix it once.
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  #8  
Old January 28th, 2008, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tawayama
Yes, it will be a major PITA, but you have an expensive truck. Fix it right IMO and fix it once.
Amen to that !

Pat
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  #9  
Old January 28th, 2008, 10:50 AM
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Agreed on the galv. but that is a huge DIY job to change them and if that is a So. Cal truck it likely doesn't need it... or at least won't for a long time if it stays in So. Cal.

Here are images of the updated Euro style T support and door seal in our most recent 110 (#151). If you have them out, galv. them, but if not, the right primers and paint can hold off rust for many many years.
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  #10  
Old January 28th, 2008, 10:57 AM
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That euro style t-frame looks a lot cleaner. Do you have a wider shot of it? I think I might want to try those euro-spec door seals on my truck too. Are you selling them?
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  #11  
Old January 28th, 2008, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
Agreed on the galv. but that is a huge DIY job to change them and if that is a So. Cal truck it likely doesn't need it... or at least won't for a long time if it stays in So. Cal.

Here are images of the updated Euro style T support and door seal in our most recent 110 (#151). If you have them out, galv. them, but if not, the right primers and paint can hold off rust for many many years.

Mike,

I'm taking everything apart anyways. Might as well do it right.
Any mods needed for the Euro style T supports?
Are these the correct part numbers?
ALR5314
ALR5315

Thanks
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  #12  
Old January 28th, 2008, 11:35 AM
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Unknown on the part #s. Don't have time to look it up, just order it for a 2004 110 and you'll get the new stuff.

There are 2 types. One type does not allow for the SW style door catch on the front doors (they welded a plate inside the structure exactly where the backing plate has to be). That is likely the SIII version though. Make sure the version you get is for a later 110.

In fitting T supports there are ALWAYS mods needed here and there. We even find to make the door gaps right that we sometimes have to cut them apart and put them back together to get the dimensions right. Some are right and some are wrong. Test fit and check everything in mock up before you have it galvanized, and have a set on stand by in case the galvanizer wrecks your parts like they do with some of our stuff.

If you are galvanizing though you should be able to fix your current ones and then have the dipped. The galv will hide your metal work seams.
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  #13  
Old January 28th, 2008, 11:43 AM
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I have found one can do T-pieces with the roof etc in situ. Admittedly it was a 109, but we (me plus helper) did both sides in about 3 hours.
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  #14  
Old January 28th, 2008, 11:48 AM
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"cough" bullshit "cough"

Car drove in a 7 am running and driving and you had new T supports in, done and painted, doors lined up, body lines correct, doors adjusted and floors and all back in at 10am ready to drive out the door?

I think not.
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  #15  
Old January 28th, 2008, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
"cough" bullshit "cough"

Car drove in a 7 am running and driving and you had new T supports in, done and painted, doors lined up, body lines correct, doors adjusted and floors and all back in at 10am ready to drive out the door?

I think not.
This is Ron! The parts were sawz-all'd off a wreck and duct-taped in after chatting up the waitresses at a Denny's.
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  #16  
Old January 28th, 2008, 12:55 PM
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I'm sure. It would have to be.
But that kind of BS isn't helpful. Now the next guy who calls company X and wants his T supports replaced will be saying, "and I read on line that this job only takes 3 hours, so don't rip me off!"
It doesn't help anyone as it isn't realistic and it isn't apples to apples.
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  #17  
Old January 28th, 2008, 03:40 PM
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Mike, I had posted a question a couple of weeks ago regarding fitting of the 'new' style 110 door sills. My question related to the lenght of the new sill and it being too short to span the door opening. I saw your photos in this thread of the new style sill. There appears to be a section/piece of sill material at the end of the door (at the edge) which adds-fills in this missing span therefore sealing the entire door bottom.

1) Is this 'end' piece part of the door sill or separate?
2) If separate do you know the part number?
3) I purchased doors sill part numbers ALR6250 (front) and ALR6251 (rear), are these correct?

I have fixed up the rust problems on the original sill setup and would like to install the new style sills if I can solve this one problem.

Your pictures help at least see what the end result should look like.

Thanks.


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  #18  
Old January 29th, 2008, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
If you are galvanizing though you should be able to fix your current ones and then have the dipped. The galv will hide your metal work seams.
as long as you use the right kind of wire (low silicone) or galvanizing will pretty much accentuate your welding.
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  #19  
Old January 30th, 2008, 12:12 PM
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Regarding my earlier reply and question on this thread. The missing piece for the sills, the foam ends, is part AWR3140.
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  #20  
Old January 30th, 2008, 02:12 PM
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I'm curious what you had to pay for those. I have the same two parts on my "to do" list.

John
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