NAS 110 T support door seal lip - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old January 30th, 2008, 04:07 PM
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evilfij
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""cough" bullshit "cough""

They were painted before they went in.

The old ones came out easy because they were rusted, and, as I recall I was able to break the center post off.

I got there about and we (the two of us) worked for about 3 hours (6 man hours total), 2 for the first one and 1 for the second one once we figured out how to get the rivits out without spinning them with the drill.

It was sean roche's 109 (crazyfish on D-90). It was written up in LRM, in fact, there may even be pictures. Maybe three hours is a bit light, but it did not take long. Door allignment I am sure was not up to ECR standards, but it shut well enough. I don't have the body shop book, but I am sure that would give a fair estimate for potential costs. My only point is it is not a "huge DIY job" (ie changing a bulkhead is a huge DIY job). Then we ate dry rub ribs.

It would be a bit more work on a D110 because of the seatbelts (the ones in the corner on the seatbox suck to remove).
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  #22  
Old January 30th, 2008, 10:07 PM
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Ze,

Please post once you determine the correct part numbers for the Euro style supports as this is definately "on the list" of stuff needed.

Thanks,
Matt
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  #23  
Old July 28th, 2008, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R. Kurk
Regarding my earlier reply and question on this thread. The missing piece for the sills, the foam ends, is part AWR3140.
Richard - Are two foam end pieces required for each door? Also, how do the seals attach to the bottom of the door (rivets)? Thanks.
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  #24  
Old July 28th, 2008, 11:27 PM
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Richard Kurk
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Ryan, I never installed the 'new style' sills. I had already re-furbished the T frame (only moderate rust once the sill plate was removed) and had new stainless (then black powder coated) sill plates fabricated before I received all the parts for the 'new style' setup. I have moved on to other mini-projects, but I plan on returning to install the new style sills ... they seem like the right long term solution. To answer your question on the foam pieces, yes it appears two are needed for each door, one on each end of the new sill (which is shorter than the original). I do not know the OEM method of attaching the sill, but my approach would be to not use rivets, but try something like (emphasize LIKE) the plastic button fasteners on the wheel arch eyebrows which can be easily removed.

Anyone out there (ECR?) know what the best method of attaching the new style sills to the door?
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  #25  
Old July 28th, 2008, 11:58 PM
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I used plastic "christmas tree" type fasteners (very small ones) to attach the seals.
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