NAS 110 Sway bar info? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 30th, 2010, 03:21 AM
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NAS 110 Sway bar info?

IS it correct that the NAS 110 did not have a front sway bar? Do ANY 110s have a front sway bar?

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  #2  
Old March 30th, 2010, 04:25 AM
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Pete,
I have a pair of NAS sway bars off a NAS 90 with most of the hardware if you are interested. haven't had a 110 with a front sway but the 130 has both and drives better.
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  #3  
Old March 30th, 2010, 11:38 AM
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1. NAS only had rear, some ROW 110s had both.
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  #4  
Old March 30th, 2010, 03:54 PM
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Newer ROW ones have both, I fitted a front during the chassis build up by fitting a D1 front axle housing and radius arms (and Richards added the mounts when building the chassis), 110 are pretty stable with just the rear one (much more than my D2 with both for example) but I really wanted the option to tune the suspension in the future and this one is not an off-roader.
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  #5  
Old March 30th, 2010, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh View Post
Newer ROW ones have both, I fitted a front during the chassis build up by fitting a D1 front axle housing and radius arms (and Richards added the mounts when building the chassis), 110 are pretty stable with just the rear one (much more than my D2 with both for example) but I really wanted the option to tune the suspension in the future and this one is not an off-roader.
Thanks for posting that I am looking through it now. Did you simply weld the front mounting brackets to the frame?

With the D2 Front Axle you already had the mounting points there yes?

Also what did you paint your frame with?

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Old March 30th, 2010, 10:25 PM
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I got a new Richards Chassis frame and having both front and rear mounts was a standard option. The housing is from a
D1 not a 2 and uses the "wide" arms vs the "narrow" ones fitted to early Defenders. I did the chassis with zinc chromate
and Tremclad professional but if I was doing it again I would
use polyester aka bedliner but thinned 50% with acetone and then sprayed
more finely that usual. I find the paint really easy to scratch but a
few good layers of bedliner are tough once cured.
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  #7  
Old March 31st, 2010, 12:51 AM
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AHHH ok I seeee Those frames come already galvanized do they not? If so out of curiosity why not just leave it bare galvy?

I like the idea of spraying a thin bed liner as a covering though that is interesting.

Once it is all together I would be very interested to hear how well it works. My thought s on sway bars are they are great on road and then use some quick disconnects and pull em for serious off road use.

Great build pics by the way,

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  #8  
Old March 31st, 2010, 02:09 AM
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Bare galv can under certain conditions get eaten away very quickly, paint is estimated
to extend this 1.5x longer or more. That and I wanted it black.

I am toying with the idea of having them cut large holes in my next chassis (probably a 90 or 100) and use one of the press dies that fold the edges of the holes in a bit which should restore about 80% of the strength but reduce weight. Still need to do the math on that one but I bet I can cut 20% of the weight and have an interesting look if someone can telle what the proper term for that process is I would appreciate it.
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  #9  
Old March 31st, 2010, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh View Post
if someone can telle what the proper term for that process is I would appreciate it.
The term is "goofy."

Your frame will quickly exceed its original weight when its full of Ottawa mud. Not to mention what happens when you get in a wreck. Forget it. A member modified in that way will keep its static loading characteristics as a span. But it won't perform the same under compressive loads or impact force applied at certain points. Especially since it is a hollow box made of relatively thin material.
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