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  #1  
Old June 19th, 2004, 10:35 PM
rcork
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Robert Cork
1993 NAS 110
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NAS 110 A/C questions

I had the high pressure hose blow out on my A/C the other day. After getting everything off I find that the outlet hose and inlet from the dryer are siezed on to the condenser. So, I call George, Brad and even the dealer to find no one can even get me a new condenser nor a new dryer. Just for the record the cond is $700 and the dryer is $300 with a $85 adapter required from RN.

I have to think the D-90 evap must be similar to the 110 one except, hopefully, the dryer mounts in the engine bay rather than behind the grill. I checked my parts manual, but there are not pictures of the D-90 parts. I can see that they used 3 different versions, and they all used the same grill and fiberglass nose thing. So now what?

Can one of you tell me if the 90 parts would interchange with the 110 parts?

I guess I'll switch to R134 since everything is apart and clean. I just need to flush the evap and the compressor which isn't a big deal with everything else out of the way. I read the FAQ and I am not looking forward to taking apart the evap box to remove the expansion valve, but better to do it right the first time.

Also, have any of you added a rear A/C to your truck. George has one on his site or I think I could add the rear unit from a Surburban and save $1300.

Thanks in advance,
Robert
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  #2  
Old June 20th, 2004, 12:47 PM
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Doug Walker
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If you plan on keeping the truck for awhile, I'd look at upgrading to maybe disco or RR parts. I found a dryer at RoversLand in FL about 2 years ago, but they are rare. They might still have one. I'm putting a 95 rangie compressor on my rig (upgrading to serpentine front end), will let you know how it goes.
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  #3  
Old June 20th, 2004, 02:11 PM
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jim pendleton
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You need to shtcan that NAS 110 AC system. Get a new heater box from RDS and either a rear air or newer style dash AC system. The AC you have now sucks. I could put you in touch with a couple people that I have helped update their 110 AC system. They would sell the left over parts. But what would you have then? Use this as an opourtunity to upgrade, you will not regret it.

JP
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  #4  
Old June 20th, 2004, 09:28 PM
rcork
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Robert Cork
1993 NAS 110
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Thanks guys,
The more I research this the more I think aftermarket is the way to go. I can get the aftermarket dryer that fits the d-90 for $25 or so and I'm already good at making up hoses and such. An aftermarket condenser is only $85 and easy to fit. So then I can use the current in dash setup and add the aftermarket rear unit. That should do the trick. I was just hoping you guys would tell me there is a secret part number NTCXXXX for $30 that would solve all my problems. I guess I'll get to ordering and quit trying to put off the inevitable.
Thanks again,
Robert
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  #5  
Old June 20th, 2004, 11:38 PM
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Doug Walker
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IMHO the in-dash setup is worth preserving vs. under dash. Just figure out better aftermarket/replacement parts. I've ridden in d90s with the underdash air, and the loss of legroom is a huge sacrifice -- almost better to not have air at all.
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  #6  
Old June 21st, 2004, 04:04 AM
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Jason Herring
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In-dash AC venting? Is that something that could be obtained and installed in a D90 with AC but with the (legroom-hogging) under-dash vents?
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  #7  
Old June 21st, 2004, 03:23 PM
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David Marchand
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I guess the cost could be worse...

http://www.roversnorth.com/defender/defender_ac.html
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  #8  
Old June 21st, 2004, 04:31 PM
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Doug Walker
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To have in-dash vents, you'd have to keep the parts within the 110 dash and hvac box under the hood, but could maybe switch out the compressor, condenser, dryer, etc. Dont know for sure. I think the dash parts would be outrageously expensive new, and there's not a lot of wrecked 93 NAS 110s, the only vehicles with this set up.
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  #9  
Old June 21st, 2004, 08:45 PM
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evilfij
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That RN thing is not a bad price. That is a little less than what the 95 systems were selling for new.

Why they would sell you a compressor on a 97 is beyond me!

Ron
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  #10  
Old June 22nd, 2004, 12:46 AM
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jim pendleton
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Listen up boys. The indash AC suck. The heat from the engine bay makes it very inefficent. And it likes to freeze the evaporator because of the poor airflow. Be happy with your in cab system.

If you want more legroom have RDS sell you the inside piece from a TD5 the newer Smiths style AC. Very stylish and smaller etc..

My opinion of course.
JP
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  #11  
Old June 22nd, 2004, 01:06 PM
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Robert Cork
1993 NAS 110
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I have to say, JP is correct with the way the 110 system sucks due to excessive heat transfer from the engine compartment. But, and I have to qualify this, BUT, you can add a $7 ball valve to the heater hose supply to the heater core in place of the POS factory valve. Then add some insulation to the floor and seat box areas. WOW! I added insulation just a week before I had the hose blow out, and WOW. I now have a problem of my windshield fogging on the outside when the A/C is on high fan speed settings. I need to get into the dash and fix the little flapper doors that stop the air from going out the defroster ducts when defrost is not selected. But, given the foil type insulation ($20) and 2 hours of my time to install it and the $7 ball valve I am pretty happy with it so far.
I found the local NAPA had about 100 different dryers that would fit in the place of the unavailable rover part. $45 later and a $15 hose they are making for me right now and I'll be sporting R134, new hoses, dryer and all for less than the dryer that RN and the dealer told me was on backorder for months. Plus the $45 dryer came with a new high-pressure switch installed, so I now have a spare.

I considered switching to the under-dash setup that the d-90s uses, but then I couldn't blow a/c on my feet or windshield like with the 110 systems. My old Jeep was that way, and I like the 110 systems better.

Since I am switching to R134 I may loose some cooling capacity, but I still have the option of adding a rear a/c unit if it is a problem. Like JP said, the 110 systems like to freeze up. I had that happen one day while driving through southern GA and it sucked. Once I get the system to work again, which will be tonight after I install the last new hose, I think I’ll crack open the heater box in the engine compartment and see what can be done for more airflow. I’m really dreading the whole heater box thing after all the other “learning experiences” I have had with this truck the last week.

Maybe I should just do like my wife said and illegally import-beg-borrow or steal a brand new 110!!! I think she is tired of me working on my “new” truck.
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  #12  
Old June 22nd, 2004, 02:26 PM
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Doug Walker
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Robert,

Right about the valve. I replaced mine so long ago that I forgot. Insulation sounds smart, I think I'll fit some inside the dash. Another thing to remember is that the inside of the 110 is HUGE. A lot of space to cool off, not to mention the heat that can penetrate throughout the extended body. I've never had mine freeze up, but then, it's pretty dry out here in Southern CA.

To each his own, Jim. I prefer the advantages of the 110 indash, even if less efficient.
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  #13  
Old June 24th, 2004, 11:38 AM
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Robert Ragland
1994 Defender 90
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I've had my a/c serviced this past week. New exchange valve, dryer, and some other parts. I would recommend anyone needing work done on these to have it looked over by a shop well experienced in European cars. The D-90 a/c's were similar to other port installed units put into gray market cars in the 80's. The supplier was used for many makes. Many of the parts are interchangeable with non-Rover branded pieces, which may not be available. Most dealers never really see Defenders, so they may very well have less experience, possibly none, working on an a/c like this.
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  #14  
Old July 19th, 2005, 01:16 PM
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Steven Reed
93 Defender 110 - #107
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Question on the Ball Valve, Did you guys put the ball valve in place of the factory vacuum valve? and then just seasonally turn it on and off?
COSteve
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