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  #1  
Old May 31st, 2013, 08:26 AM
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nas 110 a/c blowing hot

Okay, its getting hot and my a/c isn't working. was like this when I bought the truck and I was going to wait until the rebuild before addressig it but since my parts for my 90 rebuild are still not here I figured I'd go ahead and fix it. I haven't really investigated the problem but am going to dig into it this weekend.

Any suggestions where to start?

The levers seem to move the cables on the heater matrix so I assume I need freon, leaking line, or bad compressor.
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  #2  
Old May 31st, 2013, 08:51 AM
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Check to see that the compressor "clicks" on when you turn on the AC. It should be free-wheeling when off, and pumping when on. You should be able to hear it.

Take the truck in and have it leak tested and re-filled. You'll likely have to convert to system over to R134, but that also has ill effects on R12 systems if not done right.
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  #3  
Old May 31st, 2013, 08:54 AM
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Whatever you do don't go to Pepboys and get a can and throw it in...

You should get a line set and check pressures, if pressure is no good vacuum it down and see if it holds vacuum. Once it is holding charge it.
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  #4  
Old June 1st, 2013, 08:56 AM
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Okay, it looks like i'm not getting power to the compressor. The a/c button illuminates, the big fuse in the engine compartment is good, but the plug to the compressor is dead. Does anyone know if there is another fuse or relay somewhere?
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Old June 1st, 2013, 09:16 AM
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THere is an inline fuse as well. Mine was behind the fuses in the center of the dash. Took some time to find it. My a/c button is also toast.
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Old June 1st, 2013, 09:20 AM
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Paul, you do realize that even when fixed the A/C will barely work just enough to keep you from melting, and that's about it .
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  #7  
Old June 1st, 2013, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Paul, you do realize that even when fixed the A/C will barely work just enough to keep you from melting, and that's about it .

I just need to get some air moving around. Currently it blows hotter than the ambient temp. The 90 is much more comfortable w/out a/c with the top on if the front vents are open.

I'm sweating my ass of w/ all this heat we're getting.
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  #8  
Old June 1st, 2013, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reese_D90 View Post
THere is an inline fuse as well. Mine was behind the fuses in the center of the dash. Took some time to find it. My a/c button is also toast.
Just removed the fuse panel and there aren't any fuses back there.

But I did notice a black box mounted on the back of the fuse panel that has a plunger on top of it. I don't have that on the 90 so just curious to what that is if anyone knows.
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  #9  
Old June 1st, 2013, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
But I did notice a black box mounted on the back of the fuse panel that has a plunger on top of it. I don't have that on the 90 so just curious to what that is if anyone knows.
Inertia switch....there should be one on the 90 as well. It shuts vehicle off in a rollover/etc.
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  #10  
Old June 1st, 2013, 10:29 AM
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I haven't checked for pressure in the lines. Does anyone know if there is a pressure switch that would NOT allow power to the compressor if the lines are empty?
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  #11  
Old June 1st, 2013, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
I haven't checked for pressure in the lines. Does anyone know if there is a pressure switch that would NOT allow power to the compressor if the lines are empty?
Yes the compressor will not get power if the system pressure is too low. Best take it to a shop and have them recharge the system. Should only cost about $70 and that will test for leaks at the same time.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #12  
Old June 1st, 2013, 10:43 AM
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The last few years I went in to have my '85 BMW AC serviced and add some R12 if needed. I was commenting to the shop owner about how much colder the R12 was than the newer R134a. He proceeded to tell & show me about how the newer condensers (by the radiator) are so much better now than when the R134 came out in the early '90's, he even proceeded to show me some cut-aways of the new condensers vs early '90's units. The newer units have a much, much finer tubing in which the fluid is able to dissipate heat to than the old big tubes used in the R12 systems.

So an early R134a system, like in our D90's, would be greatly improved by having the condenser replaced with the newer, more efficient unit.
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  #13  
Old June 1st, 2013, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
So an early R134a system, like in our D90's, would be greatly improved by having having the condenser replaced with the newer, more efficient unit.
Very interested if an improved condenser is out there for a NAS 110.
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Old June 1st, 2013, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Reese_D90 View Post

Very interested if an improved condenser is out there for a NAS 110.
Best talk to one of the custom AC shops and have them build something. If you get something branded for a 110 upgrade the price will be 5x actual.
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  #15  
Old June 1st, 2013, 02:20 PM
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Just checked one local shop. Not sure is the order is correct but 130 to check the system, 170 to fill, 250+ to convert to 134a. This is omly if everything us working any leaks etc would be in addition too. So looks like i'm back to the orginal plan of waiting until the rebuild before addressing the a/c. It's going to be a hot summer.

Thanks for everyones input. If you think og any cheap solutions that get me through to the fall pls let me know.
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Old June 1st, 2013, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
Just checked one local shop. Not sure is the order is correct but 130 to check the system, 170 to fill, 250+ to convert to 134a. This is omly if everything us working any leaks etc would be in addition too. So looks like i'm back to the orginal plan of waiting until the rebuild before addressing the a/c. It's going to be a hot summer.

Thanks for everyones input. If you think og any cheap solutions that get me through to the fall pls let me know.
You're sure it hasn't been converted already? Every old car I've had/have (even my '72 Volverati) had already been converted by PO's. So may w worth double-checking.

If by any chance it had, most shops can zap it for around $100 and if there's just a small leak may get you through the summer (or longer).
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  #17  
Old June 1st, 2013, 02:48 PM
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R134a became mandatory in 1995. So the 1993 D110 is/was R12.
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  #18  
Old June 1st, 2013, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
You're sure it hasn't been converted already? Every old car I've had/have (even my '72 Volverati) had already been converted by PO's. So may w worth double-checking.
x2
mine was converted by PO
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  #19  
Old June 12th, 2013, 08:16 AM
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Sorry to hijack the thread but I have a related question. Mine blow cold for ten minutes then gradually starts to warm. Even when idling. Any ideas what this could be?
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  #20  
Old June 12th, 2013, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ssi19 View Post
Sorry to hijack the thread but I have a related question. Mine blow cold for ten minutes then gradually starts to warm. Even when idling. Any ideas what this could be?
?Freezing up. Sign if low level of aC fluid.
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