Name that heated seat pigtail connector - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 1st, 2011, 08:58 PM
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Name that heated seat pigtail connector

The 110 I've got came with prewired heated seats (tops & bottom) for the fronts. However, no buttons/switches/etc to hook it up to. In an effort to be ambitious and get these hooked up I wanted to begin the search for the switches/hookup to activate these.

Take a look at the below, anyone have these same or similar seats?
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  #2  
Old February 2nd, 2011, 08:33 AM
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It's hard to tell from your photo but look to see how many contacts the plug has. If there are three then it's a dual level heat (low and high). If it's a single setting then you need a relay and on/off switch for each seat. If you can't match the connector plug, swap it for a Molex or suitable disconnect plug. Wire the seat to the relay and the switch gets power from an ignition hot wire. Make sure you put an in line fuse from the power to relay. If the heater is a dual level you would need an off/on/on switch and possibly a resistor.
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Old February 2nd, 2011, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
The 110 I've got came with prewired heated seats (tops & bottom) for the fronts. However, no buttons/switches/etc to hook it up to. In an effort to be ambitious and get these hooked up I wanted to begin the search for the switches/hookup to activate these.

Take a look at the below, anyone have these same or similar seats?

The connector you've pictured is the Female half of an AMP/Tyco MQS (Micro Quadlok System) Connector.

AMP/Tyco MQS Connectors are also used extensively in VAG and BMW vehicles, they are available as spares from a VAG or BMW dealer under various part numbers and are supplied as separate components -
Connector Shell

Wire Seals

Terminals (pre-crimped onto wire tails)

Here are some pictures of them that were uploaded to a German Audi Forum -

http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/teile...-t2847412.html


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Fullsize here -

http://data.motor-talk.de/data/galle...7091418327.JPG

http://data.motor-talk.de/data/galle...9221093866.JPG


These pictures show the AMP/Tyco Part Number, as well as the BMW Part Number.


This BMW Forum also gives info on them -

http://forum.bmw-mc-klubben.se/showthread.php?t=1981


Both of the above forums are in German (Google Translate is your friend )


Do you have the post 2002 Dash Centre Console?

If so, Genuine Land Rover Switches are available that will fit into this, with connectors to suit available from a UK supplier.


Even if you're not using the Land Rover Switches, I thought that you might find the Factory Circuit Diagram useful -

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Fullsize here -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...edSeatsLHD.jpg


.
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  #4  
Old February 2nd, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
It's hard to tell from your photo but look to see how many contacts the plug has. If there are three then it's a dual level heat (low and high). If it's a single setting then you need a relay and on/off switch for each seat. If you can't match the connector plug, swap it for a Molex or suitable disconnect plug. Wire the seat to the relay and the switch gets power from an ignition hot wire. Make sure you put an in line fuse from the power to relay. If the heater is a dual level you would need an off/on/on switch and possibly a resistor.

It's a 2-way connector - Live & Earth

The Land Rover Heated Seats only have two settings - On & Off

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  #5  
Old February 2nd, 2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulMc View Post
It's a 2-way connector - Live & Earth

The Land Rover Heated Seats only have two settings - On & Off

.
Yes, but the Exmoor and most others have 2 settings.
Anyway, that makes the hook up a lot easier for you.
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  #6  
Old February 2nd, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Paul:

A thousand thanks...seriously. That is more info than I hoped for, even a wiring diagram! You are a good man - and I appreciate it. Now I can run with this project and get one thing off the "to do" list.

I have a circa-'99 dash console as shown below. I'll see what switch setup I can get to work, would be nice to do the LR correct switches.
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  #7  
Old February 2nd, 2011, 12:46 PM
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You're probably better off sticking with what you've got and fitting something like Carling Switches in the centre panel under your radio.

The post 2002 dash console looks good, but is a whole lot of work to fit, including lots of new parts and all new electrical connectors.

Here's the dash console -

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and a close-up showing one of the Heated Seat Switches -

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  #8  
Old February 6th, 2012, 12:42 AM
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Reviving my own old thread...finally getting around to rewiring a ton of stuff on my truck, wanted to see if anyone had any idea where to get the "female" end of these connectors (shown in the first pic). Male end is shown in the 2nd & 3rd pics for reference only.

They are essentially connectors for a set of heated front seats (genuine LR from what I understand), a lot of the wiring is already in place so would like to utilize it. Just missing the connectors to run from the relay/switch to the actual seat connectors (which are the male shown).
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  #9  
Old February 6th, 2012, 04:20 AM
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Think they are these mqs units http://www.te.com/commerce/mob/TEMob...N%3D1-967644-1

If so that site is pretty good to find distributors.
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Old February 6th, 2012, 08:42 AM
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cut those yotches off and put a local weatherpak on them! you don't want to go through this nutroll again if something happens and you break/strip a connector down the road. I love my heated seats!

BTW, I would highly recommend going with carling contura II switches (you can source from MudUK), and install them in the center console (Disco I&II style).
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Old February 6th, 2012, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
cut those yotches off and put a local weatherpak on them! you don't want to go through this nutroll again if something happens and you break/strip a connector down the road. I love my heated seats!

BTW, I would highly recommend going with carling contura II switches (you can source from MudUK), and install them in the center console (Disco I&II style).
Bingo.
You can get contura 2 or 3 switches all over the web. illuminated on/off should be about $6.
Alternately, use male/female 1/4" spade crimp connectors. I like the ones that come with adhesive lined shrink tube already attached.
My only heartburn with Contura switches is that they are held in place with little gripper deals that are molded into the housing. Unless the hole is perfectly sized, they can pop out.
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  #12  
Old February 6th, 2012, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
cut those yotches off and put a local weatherpak on them! you don't want to go through this nutroll again if something happens and you break/strip a connector down the road. I love my heated seats!

BTW, I would highly recommend going with carling contura II switches (you can source from MudUK), and install them in the center console (Disco I&II style).
I'm actually already sporting the MUD center switch panel (www.mudstuff.co.uk/MUD_centre_panel.shtml) and was going to use 2 of their illuminated rocker switches for the front seats.

For the weatherpak, I'm guessing that's the heated seat element? My seat backs/bottoms already come pre-wired...it's just the switch/relay/wiring harness that's missing.

Worse comes to worse I could cut them off and splice in my own connector, but it's already got them so figure I'll spend a little while doing some homework to find the "missing link".
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  #13  
Old February 6th, 2012, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
My only heartburn with Contura switches is that they are held in place with little gripper deals that are molded into the housing. Unless the hole is perfectly sized, they can pop out.
For Contura's I would not install the switches without using a carling mount for them. makes things so much easier. and order the removal tool just to add to your tool kit as well.
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Old February 6th, 2012, 09:19 AM
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Found this guy to have the exact same issue as I did:
http://www.briandorey.com/post/Wirin...ted-Seats.aspx

And he cut the existing ends off and went with some Traxxas TRX High-Current Connectors:
http://traxxas.com/products/parts/ac...rrentconnector

Maybe this is the route to go...?
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  #15  
Old February 6th, 2012, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Reviving my own old thread...finally getting around to rewiring a ton of stuff on my truck, wanted to see if anyone had any idea where to get the "female" end of these connectors (shown in the first pic). Male end is shown in the 2nd & 3rd pics for reference only.

They are essentially connectors for a set of heated front seats (genuine LR from what I understand), a lot of the wiring is already in place so would like to utilize it. Just missing the connectors to run from the relay/switch to the actual seat connectors (which are the male shown).

You have your genders the wrong way round

The gender of this type of connector is denoted by its terminals.

So, your first picture (the connector-half you're looking for) is male.

The other pictures (the connector-half that's already on your seats) is female.


Good luck getting them from Tyco or one of their distributors

Nobody seems to hold any stock of anything anymore, they want you to place an order for several thousand units, in order to justify restarting production


However, the male connector half is available from BMW and Mercedes Dealers (without Terminals or Wire Seals).

Several owner forums for these cars have details of the manufacturers part numbers and availability.

BMW -

83 30 0 402 344

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and 80 00 0 610 619

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Mercedes -

A2105404781

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The BMW offering comes with Terminals and Seals with short wire 'tails', but these are only 0.5mm2, which is too small for Heated Seats.


Mercedes sell 'Repair Wires' (as do VAG Dealers), which are Terminals with Wire Seals, pre-crimped to a short length of wire, again I have only found 0.5mm2 for these.


I have the Male Terminals and Wire Seals to suit these connectors in 0.75mm2 (which is the same gauge as Land Rover use for the Heated Seats), but not the 2-way male shells.


Of course, you alway do what others have suggested and replace them with a matching pair of connectors that are easier to obtain.


e.g. - AMP/Tyco - Econoseal or Superseal are easily obtained as matching pairs from most Automotive Electrical suppliers


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