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  #21  
Old November 10th, 2009, 10:54 AM
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Marc
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Had a similar problem wit my Ferrari 400i (auto trans) where idle was erratic, stalls, and transmission jerking/clunking. It ended up being a vacuum leak wich affected the trans and idle.
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  #22  
Old November 10th, 2009, 11:31 AM
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RYAN BEIS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand
Make sure your air pipe/tube (whatever the correct name is) is well in place and not cracked. If the air flow sensor is not measuring the amount of air actually getting into your engine, this can create large amount of problems.
Now, if could also be fuel (fuel pump or fuel filter).
Since I only have manual transmissions, I can't start talking about the AT stuff, but IIRC, there is also a sensor (multiple sensors?) that the ECU uses as well. You already checked the road speed sensor, right (could explain the up and down _if_ it's putting out signal when you are not actually moving, but that's a strech in my mind since they typically fail by not outputting anything instead)?

I second this. I had this issue happen to me as well with my 95 D90 on the highway going about 65 mph. Turned out the air intake tube was jarring loose at the connection and had a rip in it. Had to replace the tube itself. Hope this helps.
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  #23  
Old November 10th, 2009, 02:27 PM
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Wes
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Thanks for all the responses. I'll find the stepper motor and clean it tonight and also ensure that all air hoses are attached correctly and not cracked. I need to get this fixed in the next 2 weeks so I can go riding for about 24 hours staight down in Ala (insert southern redneck jokes here...)
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  #24  
Old November 11th, 2009, 09:40 AM
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anyone know if NAPA or other parts store carries an equivilent part stepper motor?
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  #25  
Old November 11th, 2009, 11:02 AM
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Scott
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Wes, where are you going in AL? Grey Rock's toys for tots?
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  #26  
Old November 11th, 2009, 02:16 PM
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No, actually a buddy has a many many acres just outside of b'ham.
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  #27  
Old November 11th, 2009, 02:48 PM
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david summers
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Yes they do. But so does Autozone, Checker, ect. Search for stepper motor replacement. That should give you the part number.
David
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  #28  
Old November 11th, 2009, 04:50 PM
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I'm going to pick up a new stepper motor and install it tonight. Is my understanding correct in that the stepper motor mainly deals with idle speed? If so, what could be causing the engine to stall out and stop when going 60 mph at 3000 rpms? maybe the vac seal sucks?
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  #29  
Old November 11th, 2009, 08:56 PM
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new stepper motor is in, the NAPA one from the parts list. Once I put it in, I checked to see it would start and it did, so I let it run for a couple minutes and turned it off. Then came back about a hour later and everything would turn, but it wouldn't start. I tried for several minutes, and nothing but the smell of fuel. Any ideas?
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  #30  
Old November 12th, 2009, 01:16 AM
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Loic Fabro
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Now, basic checks (non start issue could be related or not; ok... I'd think it is! ):
- Did you set the stepper motor up so it was sticking out pretty much like the one that was in there when you removed it?
- do you have strong spark?
- you have likely flooded the engine if the fuel smell was strong, so wait until tomorrow to try to start it (or pull the spark plugs and dry them).
- make sure you did not hit the accident detector (name of that thingy/black relay looking on the firewall that kill the engine that "unwinds" when you hit it?)
- does it start if you put the old stepper motor in?
- does it start if you unplug the MAF?
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it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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  #31  
Old November 14th, 2009, 01:23 PM
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Still won't start...

I put the new stepper motor in about the same as it was sticking out before. Does it have to be in at a specific depth for it to work?
I tried it with the old stepper motor and it wouldn't start.
The spark is strong from the coil to the distributor.

What's an accident detector? I didn't hit anything that unwound

I did unplug the MAF and nothing.

I'm going to try reseting the ECU.

Any other ideas?

It almost seems like once the spark hits the distributor is stops, but it's turning fine.

The fuel pump and injectors are in working condition.

I'll try retracing my steps again...
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  #32  
Old November 14th, 2009, 01:28 PM
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The "accident detector" is a black relay-shaped thingy on the firewall. If you hit it with a rubber mallet, you will hear the "unwind" noise. You push on top of it to reset it/re-engage it. Kills fuel IIRC.

Yes, definitely make sure you are getting spark at the spark plugs.... If not, then, "tune up"! Plug wires, distributor cap and distributor arm are in order.
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
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  #33  
Old November 14th, 2009, 01:43 PM
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does the stepper motor need to be in a certain depth in order for it to work? The shop book says to tighten to 20Nm, but I'm not 'in tune' with the metric system. How tight is 20Nm to us non-metric people?
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  #34  
Old November 14th, 2009, 05:57 PM
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you can google the answer to that. check to see i you are getting spark to the plugs

Quote:
Originally Posted by midturtle
does the stepper motor need to be in a certain depth in order for it to work? The shop book says to tighten to 20Nm, but I'm not 'in tune' with the metric system. How tight is 20Nm to us non-metric people?
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  #35  
Old November 15th, 2009, 04:16 PM
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Alright, I've been getting spark to the dist. cap, but it doesn't seem like it's being dispersed. I guess I need to get a new cap. Has this type situation happened to anyone, where you replace one part and then the domino effect of other parts taking a shit?
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  #36  
Old November 17th, 2009, 10:22 PM
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david summers
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Sometimes, it just seems like it. Check your rotor before you buy a cap. Mine was running poorly, I changed the rotor and the change was amazing. BTW, its best to stick with Lucas parts for the ignition. Several people have reported problems with aftermaket ignition parts.
David
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  #37  
Old November 17th, 2009, 10:38 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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I'm no pro on this since I had it done before any issues came but aren't these the typical symptoms of that part you're supposed to relocate off the distributor? I forget what the name of it is..
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  #38  
Old November 20th, 2009, 03:47 PM
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anyone know a fair price for a used ECU for a 3.9?
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  #39  
Old November 20th, 2009, 05:31 PM
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Dendy Jarrett
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Wes:
I know on a Classic ... if you replace the stepper motor ... you have to reset base idle.
If you do not, it will start and die immediately.

You may try this before replacing the ECU.

Check with Kelly at LRN.

Dendy
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  #40  
Old November 20th, 2009, 06:35 PM
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If you're not getting spark, an ECU will do nothing to help. The ECU only controls fuel, not spark. If you said that you get a fuel smell with the no spark, that means that the ECU is likely working fine.

And if you're getting spark at the coil, then the ignition module is good. So that leaves the cap/rotor as the likely culprit. Though I wouldn't rule out a bad coil wire, I've had numerous store-brand wires burn up on me right at the crimp between the conductor and the end connector. Pull the boots back away from the connector and check for arcing and if the conductor has burned away. Also, what condition are the plug wires in? If they look old and cracked, it's a very good possibility of them being the cause.

Then pull the distributor cap off, and shine a flashlight in there. Look for any scorching, carbon deposits, generally dirtyness or moisture. Do the same checking the rotor too. If you do replace, stick with Lucas parts. I've tried aftermarket, lasted less than 500 miles.

-Hans

I also just re-read the whole thread. It sounds like you had two problems going on. One was the original poor running problem, which has gotten worse.... the other the alternator which has been fixed. The poor running could also be a failing igntion coil, but I'd still say try the cap and rotor first.

The 03 code is a "memory interruption" code. From what little I find about it, power surges and power interruptions can cause it. And you said it stopped when you got the new alternator? Sounds about right then.
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