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  #21  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crobinson View Post
I just got mine back today from the turbo shop for a rebuild. Garrett T250. Looks great just got to rotate the waste gauge around. $334 before tax
Pendy referred this guy.

Jeff Amann
Turbo Auto
4403 Charlotte Ave.
Nashville, TN 37209
615-383-6242
Was that for a complete rebuild? sounds like a good price.

Pendy- Any commendations for the peoples republic of CA?
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  #22  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 07:49 AM
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Yes complete rebuild.
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  #23  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DD90 View Post
That turbo is nice bling!

Can someone explain why there would be oil in the IC as a result of the turbo failing??

Trying to understand.
Commonly when the turbo fails the seals in the compressor housing fail and the vacuum from the engine sucks the oil out of the bearing housing.
Another cause is a restricted oil return line which causes pressure to build up too high in the bearing housing pushing the oil past the seals and in to the compressor housing.
Yet another cause is hot shutdowns leading to coking on the turbine shaft which builds up preventing the seals from doing their job and allowing oil past in the compressor housing.

The last one was the most common cause that I saw when I used to rebuild turbos. The turbo was intact, just totally coked up. If they were caught in time all they needed was cleaning and blasting the parts, polishing the shaft, balancing the compressor wheel and the turbine wheel/shaft assembly (not all rebuilders do this) and fitting new seals.

If they are left operating they eventually get far enough out of balance because of the coke all over everything that the compressor and turbine wheels start rubbing in the housings. They go quickly downhill from there.
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  #24  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
Commonly when the turbo fails the seals in the compressor housing fail and the vacuum from the engine sucks the oil out of the bearing housing.
Another cause is a restricted oil return line which causes pressure to build up too high in the bearing housing pushing the oil past the seals and in to the compressor housing.
Yet another cause is hot shutdowns leading to coking on the turbine shaft which builds up preventing the seals from doing their job and allowing oil past in the compressor housing.

The last one was the most common cause that I saw when I used to rebuild turbos. The turbo was intact, just totally coked up. If they were caught in time all they needed was cleaning and blasting the parts, polishing the shaft, balancing the compressor wheel and the turbine wheel/shaft assembly (not all rebuilders do this) and fitting new seals.

If they are left operating they eventually get far enough out of balance because of the coke all over everything that the compressor and turbine wheels start rubbing in the housings. They go quickly downhill from there.
So what you're saying is get an EGT gauge, know the numbers and monitor it?
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  #25  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 10:54 AM
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And always let it cool down before you shut it down
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  #26  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
And always let it cool down before you shut it down
x2. Always let it cool/idle before shutting down. EGT gauge is necessary.
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  #27  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
And always let it cool down before you shut it down
Is this always? or mostly after long trips?
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  #28  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
So what you're saying is get an EGT gauge, know the numbers and monitor it?
That's one thing to do.

Other things that help
Water cooled bearing housing
Post oilers than cycle oil through the bearing housing until it's cooled (not the gravity fed ones, the kind that have a pump, filter and thermocouple you attach to the bearing housing)
Just letting the engine idle for a few minutes before shutdown.

It just depends on how compulsive you want to be
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  #29  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 02:04 PM
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How long is "long enough" to let it idle before shutting down? 30 seconds, 1 min, 5 min?
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  #30  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 02:10 PM
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Good news for me. I just heard back officially that the turbo specialist shop that my diesel shop outsourced to was able to determine that my turbo was rebuildable, and has the proper rebuild kit on the way from Cali. While I've identified several sources from the UK (one considerably cheaper than M&D) for replacement new turbos, it's good to know that a domestic rebuild kit exists. I'll post all the details once I have them.
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  #31  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Chaucer View Post
How long is "long enough" to let it idle before shutting down? 30 seconds, 1 min, 5 min?

That all depends on how hot it is and how quickly it cools off.

I think I looked up the burning point of Rotella T and it was approximately 350 degrees, so I try to get close to that or under before I shut off my diesel trucks. I have a timer in the Dodge that keeps it running untill the EGT reaches a preset temp but my Disco I just leave running until the temp cools down.
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  #32  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Good news for me. I just heard back officially that the turbo specialist shop that my diesel shop outsourced to was able to determine that my turbo was rebuildable, and has the proper rebuild kit on the way from Cali. While I've identified several sources from the UK (one considerably cheaper than M&D) for replacement new turbos, it's good to know that a domestic rebuild kit exists. I'll post all the details once I have them.
That's good news. Please do post up on info you can get. I may have the same turbo as you so it would be nice to know some part numbers, etc. for that just in case situation.
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  #33  
Old September 23rd, 2010, 05:47 PM
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Please do post the source for the new cheaper one than M&D, I suspect I'll need a rebuild/new one at some point in the next 100K and having a source for a VNT would be nice, though I'm also considering a hybrid depending on how well the new IC works out (hopefully finally getting it next week, was supposed to be last week but don't get me started on 3rd and 4th party shipping arrangements).
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  #34  
Old September 24th, 2010, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
That all depends on how hot it is and how quickly it cools off.

I think I looked up the burning point of Rotella T and it was approximately 350 degrees, so I try to get close to that or under before I shut off my diesel trucks. I have a timer in the Dodge that keeps it running untill the EGT reaches a preset temp but my Disco I just leave running until the temp cools down.
Mark, you can also buy an aftermarket shutdown relay that will leave the truck running until the EGT reaches a specific temp, even if you pull the key from the ignition (depending on how things are wired). I use one and have a bypass switch in case of an emergency. Never failed me in 5 years of use.
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  #35  
Old September 24th, 2010, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Good news for me. I just heard back officially that the turbo specialist shop that my diesel shop outsourced to was able to determine that my turbo was rebuildable, and has the proper rebuild kit on the way from Cali. While I've identified several sources from the UK (one considerably cheaper than M&D) for replacement new turbos, it's good to know that a domestic rebuild kit exists. I'll post all the details once I have them.
So you will make it to MAR afterall ?
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  #36  
Old September 24th, 2010, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmarchand View Post
Mark, you can also buy an aftermarket shutdown relay that will leave the truck running until the EGT reaches a specific temp, even if you pull the key from the ignition (depending on how things are wired). I use one and have a bypass switch in case of an emergency. Never failed me in 5 years of use.
I've never noticed that kick in on your truck Dave. This discussion makes me glad my turbo has a water jacket and that I run Mobil1 15-50.
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  #37  
Old September 24th, 2010, 09:35 AM
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So you will make it to MAR afterall ?
Too close to call at this point.

David,
Def interested in shut down delay. Need to get my EGT gauge working first. you should post details up here for all.
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  #38  
Old September 24th, 2010, 10:09 AM
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Too close to call at this point.

David,
Def interested in shut down delay. you should post details up here for all.
x2 - I need to do that on the td5 soon...
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  #39  
Old September 24th, 2010, 11:30 AM
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Mark,

Let me know where you end up popping a hole for that EGT (document it if you can). I think that instrument cluster is going to happen sooner than later...
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  #40  
Old December 15th, 2010, 03:47 PM
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Just got off the phone with Jeff, very nice guy. We were wondering if your Turbo is for a 300 or a 200tdi?

Does anyone know the important model numbers to find the parts for the 200tdi turbo? (not the casting numbers)

Mine is out at shop that wants $750 to rebuild, Jeff said from $325-380! So I can't get the numbers.


Quote:
Originally Posted by crobinson View Post
I just got mine back today from the turbo shop for a rebuild. Garrett T250. Looks great just got to rotate the waste gauge around. $334 before tax
Pendy referred this guy.

Jeff Amann
Turbo Auto
4403 Charlotte Ave.
Nashville, TN 37209
615-383-6242
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