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  #41  
Old May 8th, 2014, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD90 View Post
When you say swap out the rotoflex yoke, what does that mean exactly? I'm green to the terms and compatibility in general for that matter!
The rotoflex type has a 3 bolt flange, the u-joint type has a four bolt flange. To swap from one to the other you need to either swap the flanges, or get the matching driveshaft too.
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  #42  
Old May 8th, 2014, 11:18 AM
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Thanks, Howski! I didn't know that... one of the Discos is a '98 and the other is a '94, so that weeds out that mistake.
They changed?

D1s had these between the propshaft and rear diff http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TVF100010

They can be converted. You'd need to pick and chose the parts out of this set up:

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9300
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  #43  
Old May 8th, 2014, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by WD90 View Post
Rocky, what do you mean by the rubber donut/guibo? Is that something I need to get ordered asap? There's 2 Disco 1's at the local LKQ, so I'll more than likely be there this weekend.
Just make sure you can get a rear end cheap; I'd pay no more than $50.

And a *front* rear end is the same as a rear-rear end.

I would just get one without the rotoflex.

And yes, you can drive around in front wheel drive for a while.
Pull the rear driveshaft completely: lock the CDL, you're now in front wheel drive.



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  #44  
Old May 8th, 2014, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
And a *front* rear end is the same as a rear-rear end.
Can you can get a front diff from a D2 also. You can use D2 rear diff, but they are all rotoflex from the factory.
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  #45  
Old May 8th, 2014, 12:17 PM
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Yes, a front rear end from a D2 will work also. Just much harder to get out due to the work involved.
Remember that nut is torqued to like 400ft-lb or something.
I'd much rather tear down a D1 or RRC.

I helped do 2 Rotoflex conversions in the past; one was a piece of cake---the other kicked our butts; we quit and left it alone.


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  #46  
Old May 8th, 2014, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
And yes, you can drive around in front wheel drive for a while.
Pull the rear driveshaft completely: lock the CDL, you're now in front wheel drive.
.
So the CDL has to be locked for this to work? Will driving around town at 45-50mph screw up anything?
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  #47  
Old May 8th, 2014, 02:00 PM
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Dan, I see in your profile picture you have steel wheels.
This is great because you can pull the rear axles out without even taking the wheels off.
Then unbolt and remove the rear driveshaft at the diff end(or both if you're going to drive it like that).
Then pull the rear 3rd out; get read its heavy but you'll know that if you already have another one from the junkyard.
Then see what you got...
.

And yes, it will definitely drive differently in front only mode so be careful.


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  #48  
Old May 8th, 2014, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Dan, I see in your profile picture you have steel wheels.
This is great because you can pull the rear axles out without even taking the wheels off.
Then unbolt and remove the rear driveshaft at the diff end(or both if you're going to drive it like that).
Then pull the rear 3rd out; get read its heavy but you'll know that if you already have another one from the junkyard.
Then see what you got...
.

And yes, it will definitely drive differently in front only mode so be careful.


.
I didn't think of that Nomar... I've never pulled the rear axles, so what do I do, just unbolt the axle end at the center of the wheel and just pull them out? If I do that and yank the driveshaft, it'll tell me a lot... if there's any slop in the joints or if it is indeed something internal. Thanks!
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  #49  
Old May 8th, 2014, 03:12 PM
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Yep-its easy to pull the axles.
5 bolts on each flange(I think its a 17mm) and pull them out.
If you're just going to replace the 3rd member/diff you only need to pull them out a few inches so they're out of the diff.
Then go underneath and do the driveshaft and unbolt the 3rd member(dont forget to drain the oil out first!)
Even when all the nuts are off the diff, it will tough to get loose.
You'll have to pry it loose, wiggle it back and forth and get it off the studs.
And its heaaaavy.

On a steel wheel truck, I can have the rear diff out in 45 minutes if I hustle and my back isnt sore...


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  #50  
Old May 8th, 2014, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
On a steel wheel truck, I can have the rear diff out in 45 minutes if I hustle and my back isnt sore...


.
Too bad you're a few hours away! I'm heading home now to remove the axles and the driveshaft. I'll cruise it around the neighborhood and se what happens.

Will oil come out of the axle holes when I remove them? Just thought of that...
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  #51  
Old May 8th, 2014, 03:27 PM
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Will oil come out of the axle holes when I remove them? Just thought of that...
Just a little since its the rears.

Front end is another story.


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  #52  
Old May 9th, 2014, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Just a little since its the rears. Front end is another story.
Well, I realized that my rear tire mount was causing the god-awful noise I was hearing, so that solution was fixed...

Back to the clonking... I removed the rear driveshaft and the rear axles yesterday and took it for a little stroll... I'm still getting a clonk, so maybe it's coming from a loose mount on the trans/diff... who knows. It's like the noises resonate from one end to the other on these rigs. I'd imagine the ball joint wouldn't be moving around much if the rear axle isn't under power.

I wish I lived close enough to one of you Defender experts.

The ball joint/mount assembly was on backorder at Rovahparts, so I just cancelled the order... I think I'll invest in one of those long crowbars and a sledge hammer for now.
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  #53  
Old May 9th, 2014, 07:37 PM
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The thing has been driving like a dream without the rear driveshaft connected... it does like to bark the tires a tad starting off going uphill... I'm still clueless of the problem... I reinstalled the rear axles and have been driving it around town with the rear end freestyling... no noises/clunks, so maybe it is that damn balljoint.


You guys will laugh, but I drove off today and didn't think to replace the nuts on the e-brake drum... yep, I need another one. Any sources for one or do any of you guys have one you could sell? Will one from a non-rotoflex Disco work?
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  #54  
Old May 9th, 2014, 07:42 PM
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Are you saying you need another rear driveshaft? I'm guessing a disco one will be too long.
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  #55  
Old May 9th, 2014, 07:52 PM
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Oh the drum fell off. Was that loud?
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  #56  
Old May 9th, 2014, 07:57 PM
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Double post (Damn iProduct) -Jeff
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #57  
Old May 9th, 2014, 07:58 PM
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Pebkac
No. The iphone app hasn't worked correctly in months.
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  #58  
Old May 9th, 2014, 08:09 PM
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It was pretty dramatic when it flew off... I walked each side of the road at least 10 times with no success... I'll rip the one off of the Disco tomorrow... It's like $4.99
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  #59  
Old May 9th, 2014, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by WD90 View Post
It was pretty dramatic when it flew off... I walked each side of the road at least 10 times with no success... I'll rip the one off of the Disco tomorrow... It's like $4.99
I've not done it but you're definitely NOT the first to lose the drum like that!


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  #60  
Old May 9th, 2014, 09:29 PM
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No. The iphone app hasn't worked correctly in months.
Really??

Mmmmm I pretty much only use the iPhone app and haven't had any issues. Have you called the help desk?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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