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  #41  
Old September 10th, 2012, 05:29 PM
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The nut is meant to be tightened when it bottoms and you are supposed to tighten it with a lot of torque to prevent it coming loose.

So you are saying that you don't think the bushing are compressed enough? Are they new or used? Are the washers ones that came with the kit?
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  #42  
Old September 10th, 2012, 05:49 PM
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The kit has been test fitted once probably to another Defender, and then pulled off.
Bushes and washers look okay, no sign of wear as far as I can see.

What I mean is, I don't think it took me a lot of torque to bottom the nut, I'm quite sure it took less than the 176 Nm suggested by the manual when tightening the stock radius arms nuts, just to say....that's it...

I'll Loctite everything...
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  #43  
Old September 10th, 2012, 08:41 PM
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It should not take much torque to bottom the nut. After bottomed then you torque it.
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  #44  
Old September 10th, 2012, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
what he is saying is that he has reached the end of the threads. If he keeps spinning it it will strip it. It wont make it to the proper torque without stripping it. I think he needs thicker washers, or more washers.

-Jeff
No, I do not think so. You are supposed to hit the end of the threads. That is how it works... I think he is saying that he does not think the bushings have compressed adequately. They are not supposed to compress much.
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  #45  
Old September 11th, 2012, 02:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs

what he is saying is that he has reached the end of the threads. If he keeps spinning it it will strip it. It wont make it to the proper torque without stripping it.

-Jeff
^_____^ This...!
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  #46  
Old September 11th, 2012, 09:28 AM
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That makes no sense unless the nut is stripped. Is the correct washer being used?
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  #47  
Old September 11th, 2012, 09:34 AM
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washers

Yup! Stock washers recycled, as per instructions...
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  #48  
Old September 11th, 2012, 10:59 AM
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So you are saying the nut spins? If so, it is either stripped or the wrong sized nut and you should not be driving it.
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  #49  
Old September 11th, 2012, 12:11 PM
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Erm,
no, it doesn't spin at all...I'm saying it just reaches the shank and stops there, I believe, without putting silly amount of torque on it...unlike with the stock radius arms.
And I find it odd.
Is it just me?

I fear I can't explain myself clearly here.
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  #50  
Old September 11th, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Buy a couple washers and put them at the end of the shank before the first bushing washer.

I have used these on trailing arms http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/98040a110/=j8wtsc
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  #51  
Old September 11th, 2012, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cube II View Post
Erm,
no, it doesn't spin at all...I'm saying it just reaches the shank and stops there, I believe, without putting silly amount of torque on it...unlike with the stock radius arms.
And I find it odd.
Is it just me?

I fear I can't explain myself clearly here.
That is how it should be. You should not be putting any real torque on before it bottoms, even with the stock arms.
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  #52  
Old September 11th, 2012, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
on before it bottoms
Maybe here goes the misunderstanding...the nut doesn't bottom because of the bush, instead, it squeezes the bush until it comes to the shank, and can't go any further, so I can't torque anything more. This is my feeling.

Better now?


Anyway, it's late now, will take a pic tomorrow as per Jeff's suggestion, and/or measure the thread and compare it to the stock one.

And eventually I'll buy a couple of big bad washers.

Thanks all for the interest so far.
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  #53  
Old September 11th, 2012, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cube II View Post
Maybe here goes the misunderstanding...the nut doesn't bottom because of the bush, instead, it squeezes the bush until it comes to the shank, and can't go any further, so I can't torque anything more. This is my feeling.
That is what is suppose to happen. The bush is not suppose to stop the nut. The nut should be tightened hard against the shank.
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  #54  
Old September 11th, 2012, 02:19 PM
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You think I shouldn't bother anymore then?
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  #55  
Old September 13th, 2012, 04:14 AM
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Unhappy Again on threads.

Time for more

I bought some big washers and a few minutes ago I gave it a try.

While there, I found out the nyloc nut has a lot of play on the male thread of the SG control arm and minimal play on the stock radius arms...wtf?

I re-used the stock nylock nuts as the arms in my kit came without.

I'm getting sick of this all...

Isn't the thread on the SG arms supposed to be the same as stock? Or is it not?
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  #56  
Old September 13th, 2012, 05:01 AM
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M20x2.5 thread??
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  #57  
Old September 13th, 2012, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
That is what is suppose to happen. The bush is not suppose to stop the nut. The nut should be tightened hard against the shank.
A washer should serve as stop between the nut and the shank, not just nut against shank. I have couple of three links (NIB) at the shop..........can compare parts see if you have some thing wrong.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #58  
Old September 13th, 2012, 05:58 AM
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Matt! Good to hear from you!
I did shoot you a mail some time ago, about this

I'd be glad to check a few things...threads pitch & nuts first?
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  #59  
Old September 13th, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Yes 20x2.5 sounds right? Are the nuts new or used?

Why dont you just buy my 3 link. It fits and works
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  #60  
Old September 13th, 2012, 09:52 AM
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1. Both, new and used
2. LOL, yeah, right what I need now
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