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  #21  
Old May 24th, 2012, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake1996d1 View Post
You need to take a drill, let the rock guard hang and put a piece of wood of metal behind it and bore the holes out. Mine are pretty big but I used a couple bigger washers and it works fine.

I wouldnt worry about a small hole in the rock guard it's still going to be more than solid.
don't you have a 'pink' link also...
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  #22  
Old May 24th, 2012, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mongosd2 View Post
don't you have a 'pink' link also...
the good ole stinky pinky

------ Follow up post added May 24th, 2012 03:41 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cube II View Post
I refitted the radius arms today...




What happened?! I thought all you needed were some bolts?
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  #23  
Old May 24th, 2012, 08:41 PM
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This is all normal stuff for fitting one of these.. I have installed several and on every one you have to grind that edge and shim under the diff.. As for your HD tie rod, I have a solid SS RYM one that I turned down the center of it on the lathe so it did not rub the inside of the rock guard...

I still have bushing sets if anyone needs
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  #24  
Old September 6th, 2012, 06:32 PM
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Post Lenght of upper arms...

Time for an update.
I went back to it today, with a spacer and longer, common bolts (I re-threaded the diff holes).

After 4 hours of puffing, hammering, sweating and swearing I did manage to fit the damn thing in some way...it's not straight yet and I had to fit washers everywhere to fill the gaps.

I plan to finish tomorrow, either adding the spacer under the diff or boring out the holes of the rockguard (therefore no more need of diff spacer), which are of course misaligned here and there...

I found out the upper arms are shorter than the stock radius arms though ...did anybody ever notice or are just mine?
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  #25  
Old September 8th, 2012, 07:36 AM
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Question

Attached a couple of pics showing the stock vs. Sg arms...


Also, I found out that there's not enough tread to fully tighten the bolts at the chassis end...I guess I'll try and fit LR bushings, and see it it makes a difference...?

I don't think it's very safe to hit the road with sloppy arms...


What else...oh, as I removed the arms to check the thread depth, they now fit no longer...everything was so misaligned and jammed that I ruined the thread on the bolts...



I'm tempted and almost ready to bin everything.
I will bore some holes out.
Again.

Suggestions about the bushings/short threads anyone?
Experiences??

After 2 days I'm still stuck with the Cube on jack stands...
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  #26  
Old September 8th, 2012, 09:11 AM
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Hi michele...aren't the sg 3 link arms supposed to have an additional piece in front?

The bushing on the arm goes into a crescent shaped piece that goes under the axle, no?
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  #27  
Old September 8th, 2012, 09:25 AM
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Picture 2: http://www.defendersource.com/tech/3link.html shows the arms mount to a different place at the axle end.
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  #28  
Old September 8th, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Ok they are shorter to compensate the different mounting point, it would make sense...

Still the bushes look wrong and I can't tighten the arms at chassis...

I want to kill someone...

Hi Ed, don't know of any other additional piece...at front there's a tube where a bolt goes through, while at rear they're threaded as the stock radius arms...
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  #29  
Old September 10th, 2012, 12:17 PM
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Smile

Job done.

A few details are still on the list, like the bolts I couldn't slide through the anti-roll bar mounts (holes being misaligned), short bolts to be changed here and there, and the upper arms which point slightly upwards (having almost no lift) and have not enough thread at the chassis mounts...


I'll try adding shims/washers.

Springs are still my "soft" ones, but surprisingly it doesn't seem scary on road.
I haven't broken yet the 80 Km/h barrier tho, nor done any "ramp" test.
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  #30  
Old September 10th, 2012, 01:05 PM
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Hey Jeff,
trouble is, the threaded part of the upper arms seems too short,
and the nylock nut goes all the way down until it jams, there's no thread left to run on.


As to the holes, after 3 days of fitting and refitting, I was too tired to pull the rockguard again to bore the holes out, my mistake, I should have done it first thing, I'll try soon with that thing in place.

I didn't force the bolts through, because I did it with the upper arms (holes misaligned again) and after a couple of tries the thread was ruined and I had to bin the bolts...

P.S.
Anybody else with a 3-L willing to remove nut & bush and measure the threaded lenght for me?
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  #31  
Old September 10th, 2012, 03:35 PM
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Will measure mine tonight. They don't use the bushings from the radius arms if that's what you're trying to do.
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  #32  
Old September 10th, 2012, 04:15 PM
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I do not understand what you are meaning. The nut is supposed to be tightened until it bottoms into the unthreaded section. As long as there is enough thread for the nut to be completely on, it is long enough.
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  #33  
Old September 10th, 2012, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I do not understand what you are meaning. The nut is supposed to be tightened until it bottoms into the unthreaded section. As long as there is enough thread for the nut to be completely on, it is long enough.
He probably things the bushings are compressed enough. And if he tried to use his old wore out radius arm bushings they probably arent
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  #34  
Old September 10th, 2012, 04:30 PM
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Basically... The unthreaded part should be the same length on the stock ones and the new ones assuming they are both designed for the same era radius arm bushings..
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  #35  
Old September 10th, 2012, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Basically... The unthreaded part should be the same length on the stock ones and the new ones assuming they are both designed for the same era radius arm bushings..
They aren't the same. bushings the 3 link uses a daystar bushing.
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  #36  
Old September 10th, 2012, 04:43 PM
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Thanks!!

Well the idea crossed my mind but I left the SG bushes in place...
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  #37  
Old September 10th, 2012, 04:50 PM
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OK, Michele... You then need to explain what exactly is wrong... There is more than enough thread to fit the nut.
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  #38  
Old September 10th, 2012, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Basically... The unthreaded part should be the same length on the stock ones and the new ones assuming they are both designed for the same era radius arm bushings..
I'm totally lost...here, LR bushes Vs. SG ones...

They're just slightly smaller. difference is minimal.
I don't know if they're supposed to be less tight (to better deal with increased flex??) or if the arms I got are wrong...or if I am missing something else...
The trick is in the thread I guess...?

Truck drives just fine, but I don't want any ticking bomb tho...

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  #39  
Old September 10th, 2012, 05:01 PM
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I figured your old Lr bushings were wasted. As long as that nylock is on there and the bushings are slightly compressed your fine. If you're still worried about it use some red loc tite
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  #40  
Old September 10th, 2012, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
OK, Michele... You then need to explain what exactly is wrong... There is more than enough thread to fit the nut.
There is enough thread to fit the nut, but the nut goes all the way up to the end of thread without putting great effort, and my impression is that I can't tighten it properly.
I might be wrong, but this is my feeling...make any sense?


I'll remove the nyloc nut tomorrow and check, while putting some Loctite there...
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