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  #41  
Old June 5th, 2005, 09:03 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Thanks mike. That's pretty nifty, and if it's good enough for as boat it's probably good enough for the D - I might just get one.

The Holy grail for me though is one that will also hold relays (and lots of them). This fan project alone is a 3 relay affair.

Is this a pipe dream or has anyone seen something affordable like the one in the link above, but will also hold relays?

I anticipate needing it to also support additional lighting and a compressor for air tanks / lockers at a minimum.

charles
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  #42  
Old June 5th, 2005, 09:13 PM
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The fuse box is tuff, it was under water for a LONG time and it still looks good after a quick pressure washing. That last dunk I took the water stayed in the seat box all the way home! The 6" of mud/silt burried most of the fuse box but it is the only thing besides the optima (which also refuses to die) that lasted in there.

You know I looked long and hard for a relay holder and am still empty handed. Right now I am using these

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-075

They interlock together and the color code makes wiring them easy once you get to know it. Only thing is there is no easy way to mount them to anything.

If you're board check out some diagrams on how relays work that Parts express has

http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relays.html

Edit if you buy the sockets get some relays too! They are a steal at $1.19!

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-073
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  #43  
Old June 6th, 2005, 06:58 AM
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Mike,

Thanks for that link! I just bought a damn relay at Napa for $16.00 even with my commercial discount! Those bad boys are going back today!

I am still uncertain on the radiator, I need to call around this week and I need to make it quick. It's getting hot down here.

Thanks again guys,

Jason
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  #44  
Old June 6th, 2005, 09:16 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Not only are they cheap, but they (kinda) solve the mounting problem too. These can be screwed into a mounting plate!

charles
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  #45  
Old July 12th, 2005, 10:32 PM
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Resurrecting this one, since I found that holy grail.

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/Rel...Fuse_Boxes.asp

Relay blocks!!

-Hans
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  #46  
Old July 12th, 2005, 10:42 PM
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Sweet! I think a HL62942 and a pair of HL62943 should cover my needs.

Thanks Hans!

charles
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  #47  
Old August 13th, 2005, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
Ahh, I shell modify the diagram with that

New Diagram! <wiring e-fans with T-stat.zip>
Mike,
How does the ignition part fit into this diagram?
Yes, I'm starting to plan my flexalite install - need to figure out how/where to run the wires.
I'm assuming I need to tap into one of the ignition wires for juice? Send that through the switch and then to the relays?
EDIT:> I should probably clarify - this is to drive the relays. [Power to the fans I've got figured].
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  #48  
Old August 13th, 2005, 12:27 PM
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power the fans/relays directly from the starter or bus. Power the switches/relays from the ignition switch, so they only work when the vehicle is on. At least thats how I did it.

charles
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  #49  
Old August 13th, 2005, 01:25 PM
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Also, it's a 19.5 amp draw.

Doug W.
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  #50  
Old August 13th, 2005, 02:07 PM
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Sorry I meant "power the fans/relays directly from the starter or bus"
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  #51  
Old August 15th, 2005, 12:46 PM
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I think Charles hit it right on Scott, but if your not sure we can talk Tuesday night (as long as I can get there)
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  #52  
Old January 10th, 2006, 08:35 PM
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Here I go...

Sheepishly and with much embarassment, I have to say that I've gone back to engine driven fan. It's a long long story, but it started with an engine switch-out at a time when I had not discovered that my fan clutch was dead. The engine got blamed for the overheating. Blah, blah blah and many $$$$$ under the table, I'm cancelling my recommendation for electric fan upgrade.

My high-air-flow radiator I'm standing by, but I have to tell you that seeing the temperature drop like a stone on my analog temp gauge immediately when the fan clutch kicks in, has made me a believer again in the engine-driven stock fan and shroud.

Doug W.
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  #53  
Old January 10th, 2006, 11:01 PM
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doug -just curious-why would you cancel your recommendation for electic if you engine driven fan was hiding the problem.i dont know for sure but i would guess its easier to realize an electic fan is out?
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  #54  
Old January 11th, 2006, 09:50 AM
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The engine-driven fan pulls a huge amount of air when the clutch is engaged. I tried the retro fit because the 210s still weren't pulling quite enough air when the outside temp got above say 95 or 100 degrees. I was trying to fit a larger set of electric fans, and couldn't, so got the idea to put a fused clutch (always locked) in place with an engine fan. Then I though I'd try with a new fan clutch first. I'll put a back up clutch (probably an old failed clutch that is welded or locked engaged) in the spares kit.

(Reminder that I have excessive cooling needs because of the non-stock engine.)

Doug W.
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  #55  
Old July 21st, 2006, 10:56 PM
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Another hit on the thread that will not die...

I'm reviving this thread because of an annoying/troublesome trait of my install. I installed a switch for the fans for always on or Tstat control (no always off position). The fans work perfectly except for in one particular situation.

The truck is running; the fan is on the Tstat controlled position; the fan is running. Now... if I turn the truck off, the fan continues to run. No problem... but if I turn the truck back on before the Tstat shuts the fan off, the fan turns off. Now the truck is running but the fan isn't (that's bad!). I can flip the switch over to always on and the fans start working again. I can even go one step further and switch the fans back to Tstat control and the fans will continue to work normally.

To make this anomally even more frustrating, when the fans are in Tstat position after a restart and should be running, the light on the switch that shows I'm in Tstat position with the fans running remains lit, even though the fans aren't running.

Sorry, that was a pathetic attempt at a sentence.

I claim Cream Ale impairment, Sleeman's to be precise.

I don't know... could it be a relay related issue? Maybe something else?

I'm afraid this situation is going to happen to me on a trail somewhere when I'm not paying close enough attention to the temp gauge and turn into a meltdown.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Rod
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  #56  
Old July 22nd, 2006, 07:37 PM
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A little more info.-

Using VW Tstat, and wiring according to Mr. Hippert's diagram.

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  #57  
Old July 22nd, 2006, 10:01 PM
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Rod, my guess is something in the wiring for the relay. Unfortunately I cannot look at the wiring diagram here at work, but here is how I would wire it up on the relay.

Relay Pin
30: Run straight to the battery positive terminal, with a fuse. I use 30 amp I think.
87: Run to power lead of fans, and then another wire from the fans straight to ground.
85: Straight to ground, use a bolt on a body panel, chassis, engine, or even run back to the negative on the battery.

86: This one can be tricky, and can be done two ways, since this is the lead that controls the switching in the relay.

On mine it goes from the 86 pin to the thermostat switch. From the thermostat switch to a key controlled power source. (or if you want to have the fans run when the key is off, go straight to battery power. For this, you can use the same wire that runs to pin 30 as the source.)

If you want to run that extra always-on switch, I would put that switch between the two prongs on the thermostat.


-Hans

If you want the fans to run when the engine is off, then r
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