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  #21  
Old April 28th, 2005, 09:44 AM
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Mike
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I was just wondering, why would you replace the fan with this dual fan? Is it because you want more cooling power? Does your truck over heat? Oris it the ability to turn the fan on and off as yuo wish? I know I am missing something here but what is it?

Just curious
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  #22  
Old April 28th, 2005, 09:49 AM
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Charles Galpin
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My truck was overheating - but only when driving slowly on the trail. I could have spent $165 and replaced the fan clutch (i almost went this route) but was afraid i'd still have cooling issues at slow speeds, and they say they needs replacing every few years anyway. The idea of being able to control them attracted me to the electric fans. As Mike said it also gives you more clearance in the engine bay which is really nice too.

charles
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  #23  
Old April 28th, 2005, 10:34 AM
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Scott
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I think the viscous coupling in my engine driven fan is cooked. Motor got really hot on the trail the other day (and the fan spun quite easily when the motor got turned off, which means the fan was not spinning and sucking much air). It likely needs to be dealt with before I hit the trail again. On the street its not so bad as I'm usually driving so there is lotsa airflow naturally w/out the fan.

Two benefits to consider going with electric fans.
1. less drag on the motor. maybe more power or more mpg (likely imperceptible but ....)
2. turn off fans for deep water/mud - save throwing it all over the engine/compartment.
one more for bonus - if the motor is hot, you can keep the fans running with the motor off to help get it cooler quicker. No clue for sure, I just know that I often hear the electric fans running when people are parked.
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  #24  
Old April 28th, 2005, 11:06 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Scott, I have a brand new fan clutch for sale if you decide to stick with the mchanical fan.

charles
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  #25  
Old April 28th, 2005, 11:15 AM
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Charles, been thinking, and I think I'll prolly go electric. thanks though, IF I change my mind I'll ping you. Also been told no more $ till I get a job , so nothings gonna happen for a little while yet.
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  #26  
Old April 28th, 2005, 12:08 PM
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how much for the clutch?
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  #27  
Old April 28th, 2005, 12:15 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I hear ya Scott. I say go electric. Just dont run her hot before you go either way

rover4x4, I paid $165 for it, so make me an offer. Again, brand new.

Pictures of the diff guard are at http://lhsw.com/gallery/itemsForSale

charles
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  #28  
Old May 2nd, 2005, 02:46 PM
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Need a little help here.
1) Any tricks to get the fan clutch off. I tried with a cresent wrench and a strap wrench in the pulley and nothing budged! Yes I know it is reverse thread. The dealer told me that they would take it off for $56
2) Is the bottom of the shroud held by only 4 pop rivets?

Thanks.....
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  #29  
Old May 2nd, 2005, 02:54 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I was replacing the belts anyway (so wasn't worried about damaging them), so I took a ratchet strap and ratcheted the belts together. Worked for me

The bottom of the shroud just slid into slots on the bottom of mine.

hth
charles
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  #30  
Old May 2nd, 2005, 02:55 PM
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I think I ended up using a chain wrench (like a strap wrench but much more beefy and uses a chain) wedged against something so it couldn't turn. Then I hit the other wrench with a hammer to break the fan free. I thought the shroud was only screwed on at the top and it just hooked in at the bottom, but I did mine over 2 years ago.


Edit: wow charles I'm slow today
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  #31  
Old May 2nd, 2005, 03:07 PM
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sharp tap with a hammer and screwdriver
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  #32  
Old May 31st, 2005, 06:28 PM
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Time to bring the thread back...

Hey all,

I came across the thread today and ordered in a set of the 210's. Just a few questions...

- I am doing the install in an 87 Classic and I was wondering what Fuses 7, 4 and 3 control in a Defender. I am trying to decide where to hook the leads up in my rig.

- What gauge wire did you all use?

Thanks, I will post pictures when the install is done.

, Jason
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  #33  
Old May 31st, 2005, 10:24 PM
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Bruce Byrd
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Did you guys keep the e-fans for the AC ?

thanks,
Bruce
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  #34  
Old June 1st, 2005, 01:10 AM
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Yes, kept the AC fans. My AC fans (when the AC is off) kick in at about 215 degrees. They immediately punch the temp down to 208 or so and then shut off. The only thing that kicks the temp up to 215 is rock crawling uphill.

Doug W.
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  #35  
Old June 1st, 2005, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRhinoProducts
Hey all,

I came across the thread today and ordered in a set of the 210's. Just a few questions...

- I am doing the install in an 87 Classic and I was wondering what Fuses 7, 4 and 3 control in a Defender. I am trying to decide where to hook the leads up in my rig.

- What gauge wire did you all use?

Thanks, I will post pictures when the install is done.

, Jason
Hey Jason, in the diagram that fuse box is and extra fuse box added in, not the stock fuse box. West Marine sells real nice fuse boxes in the $30 to $40 range, and with your little project it may make things allot easier when wiring up extra stuff like electric fans. For the fans I wired them independanly of each other using 12 awg wire.
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  #36  
Old June 1st, 2005, 09:58 AM
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Hi Jason

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRhinoProducts
Hey all,

I came across the thread today and ordered in a set of the 210's. Just a few questions...

- I am doing the install in an 87 Classic and I was wondering what Fuses 7, 4 and 3 control in a Defender. I am trying to decide where to hook the leads up in my rig.

- What gauge wire did you all use?

Thanks, I will post pictures when the install is done.

, Jason
As Mike said his diagram is generic. That threw me off too at first . The bottom line is get the main power direct from the alternator or one of the main fuse buses. Use relays to control if you want this power on always or controlled via the ignition. On the defender there is a main fuse block on the firewall that I pulled from, but I dont recall what guage I used there - go beefy though. I used the wire that that came with the flexalite to power the fans, and the rest of the control wiring has little or no load so you can use just about anything.

Yes and I kept the a/c fans. I replaced the a/c temperature controlled switch for one for the fans, so I still need to bypass that (haven't tried to use the a/c yet this year since it has a leak).

charles
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  #37  
Old June 5th, 2005, 03:00 PM
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Bringing the thread back!

Okay guys,

I did the FLITE 210/220 install in the Black Rangie this weekend. All went well, for once!! This truck is usually a nightmare to do anything on. The install was pretty straight forward.

- Remove viscous, [w/o Diff-lock 4x4 required tool. How did I do that?]

- Drop 220's in behind radiator

- Take some measure for my 2x2 aluminum angle

- Remove the radiator [So I could properly secure it with a bracket at the bottom]

- Scramble to find something to let the coolant drip into

- Cut my brackets to lenght and pre-drill the mounting holes

- Used some 1" self tappers to secure the brackets to the radiator and 220's

- Reinstall as one complete unit

- Put my junk back together and re-fill the coolant levels

- Jump the fans manually [Won't my relays until Monday.]

- Finished for now

I must say I am very impressed with several aspects of the fans. They don't seem to be overly lound and there is not as much drag on the engine without the viscous unit which is nice. I picked up a nice fuse block from West Marine [see link below] to re-wire not just the fans but everything else in this thing. I hope to get it done next week so I will post some more pictures when I am finished.

The Rangie was constantly running at .75 or above and now with the fans installed it stays around .50. Personally I think my radiator is shot [see below] but I am happy with this for now. I have done a search and I plan on looking into the performanceradiator.com route rather than a re-core unless of course by re-core you can achieve much better cooling by going a different route than OEM specs. Any one care to comment on this??? I think one of my problems might be that this is an 87 which had the 3.5 we have since installed a 3.9 and I am wondering if that could be contributing to the cooling issues. Should I look at going with a larger radiator from a 90+ RRC??? Or could a non-stock re-core help my problem? Currently mine doesn't have the internal extra coolers so if I went with a bigger unit could I just "not use" those functions of the other radiator?

Just FYI, Mike Hippert and Cgalpin over at D-90 gave me the idea and I want to say thanks! If anyone wants the wiring diagram just let me know.

Link to fuse block:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...productId=91545

Images attached.

, Jason

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  #38  
Old June 5th, 2005, 08:30 PM
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Does the Rangie have an oil cooler in the radiator like the Defenders do? If not then all you need is a bigger raddiator that fits, not exaactly sure where to look. But you could also have it recored and they can add extra cores to it, I would have them flow check it, if it is the original radiator it is almost sure to be clogged some.
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  #39  
Old June 5th, 2005, 08:47 PM
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Looks good! Can you post the full link to the fuse box?

charles
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  #40  
Old June 5th, 2005, 08:49 PM
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Here is the link, Jason missed some of it when he copied it from my e-mail

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...124&storeNum=9
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