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  #1  
Old July 16th, 2014, 12:13 PM
RBBailey
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My First Defender Tech Question!

OK, I drove my new 110 home last night -- 5:30 drive from Canada. It did well, frankly, I half expected a break down.

However, it was not perfect. It will be a running restoration, even more so than my '65 Series.

First Problem: During the drive last night I would be cruising at 60, then if I wanted to hold that speed on a hill I would give it some gas and it would respond well. But during the hill climb, while holding the gas pedal in a bit to keep speed, I would get this very slight feeling of a bit of a kick in the pants. It would quickly and gently accelerate enough to feel it, but only for half a second. Five seconds later, another one. It had the feeling of a weak turbo (it's a 3.5 V8) kicking in, but only for half a second.

Then, when I pulled off the freeway, I heard a sort of squeaking sound that may have been coming from the right hand side. It seemed to go away when the transmission was disengaged, and it seemed to get quieter as the truck drove on normal streets after being on the freeway for several hours.

This morning I went out to check for oil puddles and I noticed that the hubcap on the front right wheel is broken and it is flinging grease.

Hummmmmm....?

Thanks for any help.
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  #2  
Old July 16th, 2014, 12:25 PM
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Wheel bearing got hot. Either poorly adjusted or needs grease or needs replacing. Two per side. Timken is the way to go, not cheap ones.
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Old July 16th, 2014, 01:25 PM
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Sounds like a logical conclusion. I'll pick up the parts today.

Any other ideas from people?
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  #4  
Old July 16th, 2014, 01:44 PM
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yes. sounds like your bearings were getting hot and starting to seize a bit. you're lucky you made it home ok. new bearings and seals. One of the many service items that need to be absolutely checked and preferably replaced when you buy a used vehicle, so you have a known service life to work with for parts that need replacing over time.

Of course, the very first thing I always recommend replacing the moment you get it home is all (not some-ALL) of the coolant hoses. And I'm include every potential weak link to include the heater hoses. Exceeding the standard is a fresh water pump and t-stat while you are at it. Don't gamble with cooling, especially with aluminum head(s).
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  #5  
Old July 16th, 2014, 02:38 PM
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Crap Ben, who suckered you into a Defender?

Have you owned every Land Rover model at this point?

Good luck!


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  #6  
Old July 16th, 2014, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Crap Ben, who suckered you into a Defender?

Have you owned every Land Rover model at this point?

Good luck!


.
LOL.... I'm a sucker. I have always wanted one, but never had the funds. So we just slowly saved up. We wanted a project, I think this one is going to involve a LOT of cutting off bolts and a lot of Por15. But really, it isn't much worse than when I bought the Series.

We are selling off our camper trailer and we plan to turn this into a family camping vehicle.
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  #7  
Old July 16th, 2014, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
The 'bucking' was possibly a timing/advance issue. A tune up is most likely in order. But be careful, the cap/rotor is a delicate thing (POS) If you replace the cap with a Vatozone model, your symptoms will be worse, and if you pull too hard on the rotor, you'll dislodge the shaft. Check the vacuum advance as well.

Oh and don't be afraid to run Unleaded (87) no need for premium.

-Jeff
I was wondering that as well. I don't know, because I only pretend to be a mechanic on the internet, but just in my head I'm thinking dual carbs and a V8 on a dizzy MUST be a headache to get right.
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  #8  
Old July 16th, 2014, 03:37 PM
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Take it to Doug Shipman's shop in Portland. He made my 3.5 V8 run like a champ!
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  #9  
Old July 16th, 2014, 04:45 PM
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Yeah, I promised him I'd bring it by the shop today or tomorrow.

QUESTION: The three caps on the three other wheels have only a bit of grease behind them. This right hand front cap broke, and there was a lot of grease underneath. The circlip holds what looks like just a ring spacer behind it, that spacer does move. How much grease is SUPPOSED to be in there, and where did it go in the other wheels, or where is it coming from in this one? Is this a broken seal that is allowing the steering ball grease to leak out the hub?
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  #10  
Old July 16th, 2014, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Yeah, I promised him I'd bring it by the shop today or tomorrow.

QUESTION: The three caps on the three other wheels have only a bit of grease behind them. This right hand front cap broke, and there was a lot of grease underneath. The circlip holds what looks like just a ring spacer behind it, that spacer does move. How much grease is SUPPOSED to be in there, and where did it go in the other wheels, or where is it coming from in this one? Is this a broken seal that is allowing the steering ball grease to leak out the hub?
The workshop manual is posted several places on the web. Download yourself a copy. The grease caps are meant to simply stop grease from flinging all over the wheels, they are not meant to be loaded with grease.
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  #11  
Old July 17th, 2014, 12:32 AM
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Yeah, I need to get around to doing that. I'm just trying to diagnose before trying to fix the wrong thing.

So the question is... why is so much grease coming out of this one hub?
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  #12  
Old July 17th, 2014, 12:38 AM
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Blocked axle breather and that hub has the weakest seals? Or That's the bad bearing and it's heating up more than the others? Just some things to check?
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Old July 17th, 2014, 12:55 AM
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Yeah. So how do I unblock the breather hose.... which by the way, makes me wonder about the rear as well -- there is oil leaking out of the TOP of the rear diff (It's a Salisbury). I suppose it could just be a loose bolt, but I've never seen that happen.
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  #14  
Old July 17th, 2014, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Yeah. So how do I unblock the breather hose.... which by the way, makes me wonder about the rear as well -- there is oil leaking out of the TOP of the rear diff (It's a Salisbury). I suppose it could just be a loose bolt, but I've never seen that happen.
Take the breather off, clean it out, and blow out the hose with air. This should be standard procedure on all rovers. Dollars to donuts the pinion seal on the sals is bad too.
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  #15  
Old July 17th, 2014, 01:12 AM
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Done. I'll drive it tomorrow when I go get a new set of seals and bearings -- a good thing to have even if the breather hose is the real issue.
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  #16  
Old July 17th, 2014, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Done. I'll drive it tomorrow when I go get a new set of seals and bearings -- a good thing to have even if the breather hose is the real issue.
One way to test bearings is to put your foot on the tire and see if it moves at all. It is not foolproof because a rusty bearing won't cause any play, but if you have any wobble it is loose or bad.

The reason I think the bearings are bad is the squeak. The breather would/could cause the leak (but it is 95% of the time the pinion seal that it forces past) but the squeak is tell tail bearing bad.
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  #17  
Old July 17th, 2014, 02:24 AM
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I'm with you Ron on the bearings being bad. Was answering his question in the post above mine on why the grease could be escaping from just one wheel.

If his bearing is bad and the inner shaft is moving at all the inner seal won't be doing very well and with a blocked or partially blocked breather it could be an easier escape route than even the typically shitty pinion seals. Might also be low on oil as well.

Something to check as you say, the breathers should be checked/cleaned anyway.

Hot bearing and a bad cap would also let the grease out.
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