Must replace R380 Fork - Do the clutch & rear seal too? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 25th, 2012, 03:33 PM
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Langdon Hill
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Must replace R380 Fork - Do the clutch & rear seal too?

D-90 300 Tdi, 167K Miles R380's fork failed. My Clutch has 50% remaining. With all the work it took to remove the transmission to replace the fork, my thought is replace the clutch and the main rear seal. Anyone else experience this choice? I figure I have 5 more years on the clutch. There is a very small amount of oil on the wrong side of the rear engine seal. Not sure where it came from. I don't want to do this again. So it seems to me the extra coin now will be smarter than having to remove the R380 a second time - even if the clutch has time left.

1. Was it possible to replace the fork without removing the transmission?
2. Is there a better replacement fork. Why would a fork fail? Seems odd to have that be a weak link.
3. OEM clutch fine? This is a daily driver - farm truck and not a rock crawler application.
4. OEM rear main seal - is this the best option.

A mechanic friend told me - not sure if this is true - That the rear main seals are better than replacements - so a small leak in the original is better than a replacement that will leak more and wear out faster.

I tried to find this answer but did not find it, so if there is a link to this please let me know. Thanks.

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  #2  
Old May 25th, 2012, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landspeed View Post
....... Is there a better replacement fork. Why would a fork fail? Seems odd to have that be a weak link.
See towards the bottom:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5010
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Old May 25th, 2012, 04:33 PM
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John B.
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1. Was it possible to replace the fork without removing the transmission?
No. Engine or gearbox out.

2. Is there a better replacement fork. Why would a fork fail? Seems odd to have that be a weak link.
Get an OEM fork (not an aftermarket one) and weld on a backing plate, being careful not to overheat the pivot area. Grease well.

3. OEM clutch fine? This is a daily driver - farm truck and not a rock crawler application.
Sure. I'd replace it...

4. OEM rear main seal - is this the best option.
You want one of these: http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/a.../info-832.html
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Old May 25th, 2012, 04:36 PM
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Also replace the throwout bearing, slipper pads, slave cylinder and flex line while there.... You can get an alumumium housed throwout if you want even more feelings of happiness.
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