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  #1  
Old December 19th, 2008, 08:07 PM
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Multiple small issues

After getting the tranny back in, I found that there are two sets of wires with the same connectors on the end. This is not including the wires that work the reverse light as they are hooked up correctly and it is working. It does not also include the grounds that go to bolts as they are hooked up. I could not remember which set of wires go to the transfer case to activate the light on the dash. I tried both sets to no avail. I tried connecting the wires together to complete the circuit on both sets of wires in order to light the dash light. No luck.

What is the extra set of wires for? Something that is prewired for the later model 1997?
They were there extra when it came apart. I also degreased and powerwashed the transfer case and the tranny when it was out. The switch on the transfer is now fubared? Seems unlikely since the wires completing a circuit put together did not illuminate the light unless one of those bolt grounds have something to do with it, which I believe that they are well grounded. The last option would be the bulb itself. I did not check that since it seems unlikely since it worked perfectly right before the clutch change.

I checked to see if the transfer case is locking and it is indeed. I dont quite understand how it all works since it takes a few rotations of the tires to get the light to come on when it is ingaged. Is that how long it actually takes? or is it how long it takes it to turn the light on? Help with understanding that please.

Last bitch.
I bought a double cardin front drive shaft some time back to cure the nasty driveling vibration that I had after the three inch rovertym lift. That cured 75% of it and also me being stupid and not getting rid of the dumb retaining screw on the tranny brake drum that was keeping it from turning correctly.

Since then, I bought the front double cardin one (which is now much nicer since they got rid of the spacer) and now I have an overall seat of the pants vibration between 20 and 45mph. Iassume I'm not being dumb since the natural way to install it in my opinion is the double joint towards the transfer case. I also will retighten bolts tommorow for the first time, but they were plenty tight yesterday.

Sorry to write an essay, just wanted to be detailed in my issues.
Thanks in advance for any constructive help.
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  #2  
Old December 19th, 2008, 08:14 PM
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Ill shoot. I didnt know the LT230 in our trucks had any type of oil light. Ive read the BW in the classics have it. I am not sure if a Disco LT230 has it. Maybe youve got a later transfer case? My diff lock light is intermitent, sometimes it will come on right away other times it takes a little time. I have no insight into vibrations, 3" spring have you got the stock rear links and drive shaft?
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  #3  
Old December 19th, 2008, 08:21 PM
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Did the full rovertym lift with all the bells and whistles. I'm just speaking of the light that illuminates when you lock the transfer. Is that switch powered by gear oil pressure?

Follow-up Post:

basin rovers double cardin shafts all the way around now
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  #4  
Old December 19th, 2008, 08:29 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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From what I can make of the wiring schematic, if you ground the BU (black w/blue stripe) wire it should come on. I would start there...
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Old December 19th, 2008, 09:02 PM
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thanks.
maybe I killed the switch with the power wash?
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  #6  
Old December 19th, 2008, 09:09 PM
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Im not sure what makes that little light work...
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  #7  
Old December 19th, 2008, 09:14 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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I don't know how the switch operates, but from the schematic it looks like the bulb is always hot, and the circuit to ground is completed through the switch. I wouldn't think pressure washing would hurt it. If there are two wires coming from the switch, the other one should be going to ground, so I would trace it back and check. You could also check continuity of the switch in both positions. If there is only one wire, make sure it is the black/blue wire. Either way, I would check that the light comes on by grounding that wire, then track down your problem from there.
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  #8  
Old December 19th, 2008, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
I don't know how the switch operates, but from the schematic it looks like the bulb is always hot, and the circuit to ground is completed through the switch. I wouldn't think pressure washing would hurt it. If there are two wires coming from the switch, the other one should be going to ground, so I would trace it back and check. You could also check continuity of the switch in both positions. If there is only one wire, make sure it is the black/blue wire. Either way, I would check that the light comes on by grounding that wire, then track down your problem from there.
Thats exactly what I thought looking at the book, but there are two wires that came off it with two connectors that fit the switch. If the switch only required one wire, then why are there two spots to put a wire? I'm with you but a bit confused. There is also an additional third wire grounded to the case via bolt.

I have the book also and it does not make sense. It also has a page about adjusting the switch that does not mesh well with what brain cells I have left.
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  #9  
Old December 19th, 2008, 10:05 PM
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I'm confused too. In the one schematic it looks like the bulb is always hot, but in the ground distribution schematic it shows a ground wire from the ecu to that indicator light. I must be reading something wrong...
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  #10  
Old December 20th, 2008, 03:32 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Regarding what the wires are for, have you check your reverse light? The switch and wires could be for that.

hth
charles
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  #11  
Old December 20th, 2008, 07:57 PM
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reverse light is functional and the problem is solved. The circuit on the transfer case light switch has to be wired in loop with an additional wire attached to it to ground it to a bolt, which explains my confusion on the diagram.

Also, for those who wondered besides me, the tranfer case once ingaged in lock mode basically needs to turn threads on a shaft that activates the switch to turn the light on, hense the delay in the light coming on when you engage it even though it is already engaged,..........if that makes sense.

I ran into some new issues today.
After welding nuts on and trying to spin out broken collector bolts on the passenger side, I gave up and drilled them through. Once everything was set and going back together, the last original good collecter bolt broke on me. Talk about a MF.

I guess I'm going to pull the manifold off that side and do it right.
I think while pulling the brake master and pedal stuff out of the way in order to make room for the clutch master cylinder to come out, I lost the rear brake lights going back together. I can't feel anything behind the pedal that seems out of place. You guys know where that is?

Thanks again.
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I love little country streams, sleep without dreams, sunday school in may,
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  #12  
Old December 20th, 2008, 09:58 PM
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Should be a switch with two connectors (see pic) located in the brake pedal box.
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  #13  
Old December 20th, 2008, 10:11 PM
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thanks. Go to take that back apart again. Must have come off.
Any bets on how many bolts I will break getting the manifold off so I can fix the broken bolts? lol
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  #14  
Old December 20th, 2008, 10:55 PM
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"Any bets on how many bolts I will break getting the manifold off so I can fix the broken bolts? lol"

Zero, but if I were you I would pony up the money for the stretch bolts and spacers as opposed to the lock tabs.
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