Muffler pipe replacement 90 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 17th, 2016, 01:36 PM
seaswood
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Muffler pipe replacement 90

Forward muffler pipe replacement, pipe has a hole in rear.
All the nuts bolts came loose, pipe is loose.
But to get it out would appear the cross member has to be removed?
Seems only way, has anyone else done this job?
87 xmod 90 2.5na
Picture here
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-kfdcGzF-M.jpg
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  #2  
Old May 17th, 2016, 02:03 PM
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I thought a 2.5NA pipe could be removed with the cross member in place.
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Old May 17th, 2016, 02:05 PM
seaswood
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HI lift

I was assuming a high lift would spread enuf.
Is there a lot of stress there holding that frame in?

------ Follow up post added May 17th, 2016 02:07 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I thought a 2.5NA pipe could be removed with the cross member in place.
Pipe is a 90 it is up against the L front engine mount mount forward & the cross member underneath.
Unless someone has any ideas?
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Old May 17th, 2016, 02:09 PM
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It can be done, pretty sure. Try taking it up through the engine bay.
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Old May 17th, 2016, 02:42 PM
seaswood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
It can be done, pretty sure. Try taking it up through the engine bay.
It is hard against the L front engine mount forward underneath is the cross member.
If that was not there it would probably go.
First trying removing middle muffler as there is a hole for the pipe to go up into & the front to come down? After I unstuck one last bolt.
Otherwise the cross member has to come out.
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Old May 25th, 2016, 07:21 PM
seaswood
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Had to move cross member down 7" to get pipe out. Second pipe is one a friend had cut out of his truck because of xmember interference. Now I need the plate to protect clutch cylinder removed. Did not remove cross piece completely. Half full of dirt.
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Old May 27th, 2016, 08:37 PM
seaswood
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Frame



New pipe old pipe. Cross frame member was half full sand rocks & only way to clean it is to lower it as I had to do to remove muffler. Still in frame.
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  #8  
Old May 30th, 2016, 04:06 PM
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Cross member.

Frame had some rust but still had galvanize also.

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  #9  
Old June 22nd, 2016, 07:02 PM
seaswood
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I noticed the connection between the muffler pipe was not drawing together as the rear section seemed to do. As the steel plate that holds the bolts was not staying off center making it harder to get a good seal between pipes.

Has anyone had this happen?
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  #10  
Old June 22nd, 2016, 08:45 PM
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Looks like you may need an olive gasket on the one end.
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Old June 23rd, 2016, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90Overkill View Post
Looks like you may need an olive gasket on the one end.
Olive gasket?
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  #12  
Old June 23rd, 2016, 05:56 AM
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Yes. Nothing wildly expensive or otherwise fantastic, but perhaps what you need. If I understand correctly, that one of your exhaust pipe section's end mating surface is flared female, then it would become a male/male union seal in between the two mating surfaces.

The image posted shows the old and new pipes mirroring one another, except for the far right side, where the old pipe has a tapered end to mate inside a female beveled fitting. The new pipe is just flared out. Is this where the problem was or did I misunderstand? The only reason I thought it could be an olive that you need is that I bought one when I was preparing to install a cat back magnaflow on one of my classics. The fittings all turned out to already have the tapered ends, so I didn't need the olive after all.

http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...26-DISCOVERY-I
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  #13  
Old June 23rd, 2016, 12:45 PM
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First is the forward fitting it leaks flange has moved to center off pipe it leaks.
Second photo is ho it should be.
These are male to male I believe?


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  #14  
Old June 23rd, 2016, 04:02 PM
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One of the flanges should have a female beveled edge to receive either a male tapered pipe end or an olive.
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Old June 23rd, 2016, 04:59 PM
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You can see the old down pipe had a male end and the new a female. You need the olive with the new one.
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  #16  
Old June 23rd, 2016, 06:08 PM
seaswood
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Seems like the flange is pulling past the flange on the old pipe where on the new pipe it is staying put.
If that makes sense.
Thanks olive it is.
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  #17  
Old June 23rd, 2016, 07:08 PM
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If you know the size you need, an olive can be had at any auto parts store from about $2 and not more than $10, depending on the material used.
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Old June 23rd, 2016, 08:32 PM
seaswood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90Overkill View Post
If you know the size you need, an olive can be had at any auto parts store from about $2 and not more than $10, depending on the material used.
I was just talking to bill basin rovers about the diff. Pinion.
He also suggested the auto parts store, so I will bring my pipe along to fit one.
Thnx.
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  #19  
Old June 24th, 2016, 12:23 PM
seaswood
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Okay I think I see what you mean. Assuming the id. dimension is how they are measured?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You can see the old down pipe had a male end and the new a female. You need the olive with the new one.
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  #20  
Old June 24th, 2016, 12:32 PM
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Exhaust tubing is "normally" measured by the OD of the tube and comes in standard sizes. The flare style should be the same as any other normal exhaust pipe, so the correct sized olive should be available at an auto parts store. IIRC, the 2.5NA uses 2-1/4" tube.
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