MUD UK Hazard Switch Wiring - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 11th, 2011, 11:06 AM
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MUD UK Hazard Switch Wiring

Having gone through this myself and read through a lot of really bad writeups on the web, here's a picture that shows how simple it is to wire up the hazard blinkers on a Defender using the MUD UK Hazard Switch (which is just a custom J-series Carling Contura Hazard Switch.)

Although the MUD UK Hazard Switch comes with a piece of paper showing how to wire up the switch, it is labeled with wire color codes that are only meaningful on some original trucks.

Since a lot of trucks out there have totally FUBAR'd wiring that owners need to replace, none of the original color codes can be used as a reference, and therefore I labeled the diagram with generic labels.

This assumes the use of a 4-pin flasher relay. The orientation and order of the pins may differ on your flasher, so I used the numerical relay pin codes.
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  #2  
Old October 11th, 2011, 11:57 AM
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Nicely done.

This is something I've been thinking on adding to the Series.
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  #3  
Old October 11th, 2011, 12:26 PM
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it looks like some wires are missing from your diagram. why is accessory power required?

pedro, there are simpler solutions for a series truck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Having gone through this myself and read through a lot of really bad writeups on the web, here's a picture that shows how simple it is to wire up the hazard blinkers on a Defender using the MUD UK Hazard Switch (which is just a custom J-series Carling Contura Hazard Switch.)

Although the MUD UK Hazard Switch comes with a piece of paper showing how to wire up the switch, it is labeled with wire color codes that are only meaningful on some original trucks.

Since a lot of trucks out there have totally FUBAR'd wiring that owners need to replace, none of the original color codes can be used as a reference, and therefore I labeled the diagram with generic labels.

This assumes the use of a 4-pin flasher relay. The orientation and order of the pins may differ on your flasher, so I used the numerical relay pin codes.
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  #4  
Old October 11th, 2011, 12:54 PM
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Hey DB - Accessory power is required because the left/right signals should only work when the key is in the Accessory or ignition position.

However, the hazards should work without the key in the ignition.

Of course this depends on how you want your truck wired I wired it up this way because this is the way the Mud UK switch was designed to work.
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Old October 11th, 2011, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
it looks like some wires are missing from your diagram. why is accessory power required?

pedro, there are simpler solutions for a series truck.
I haven't looked into it... At some point I'll have to add it for Safety reasons.

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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Hey DB - Accessory power is required because the left/right signals should only work when the key is in the Accessory or ignition position.

However, the hazards should work without the key in the ignition.

Of course this depends on how you want your truck wired I wired it up this way because this is the way the Mud UK switch was designed to work.
I agree.
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  #6  
Old December 19th, 2011, 12:48 AM
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Is it not possible to re-use the old wiring from the stock hazard when upgrading to a Contura Hazard from MUD UK?
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  #7  
Old December 19th, 2011, 02:49 AM
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Also, Kev (from Mud UK) is very helpful... if you get stick fling him an email or ring him, he'll talk for ages!
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  #8  
Old February 27th, 2017, 01:18 PM
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BUMP from the DEAD!


Anyone know if the carling switch fits in the stock location for the hazard switch on a ROW truck? (bottom right 3 gang switch panel under the steering wheel)


My second replacement stock switch just died
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Old February 27th, 2017, 01:20 PM
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I'm pretty sure that there is not enough room there for a Carling switch.
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Old February 27th, 2017, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
BUMP from the DEAD!


Anyone know if the carling switch fits in the stock location for the hazard switch on a ROW truck? (bottom right 3 gang switch panel under the steering wheel)


My second replacement stock switch just died


SDO has them for left and RHD applications:
SDO Carling switch plates
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  #11  
Old February 27th, 2017, 01:44 PM
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Super nice but unfortunately not in my price range for this non Essential item.
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  #12  
Old February 27th, 2017, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Super nice but unfortunately not in my price range for this non Essential item.
You'd pay $35 for a switch but not $45 to mount it?
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  #13  
Old February 27th, 2017, 02:08 PM
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Yea, it's expensive especially since I'll have to also replace the other switch that is currently there.

Hence my entire post, will it fit? Alas it does not so I'm unwilling to spend that much to replace one $12 switch.
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  #14  
Old February 27th, 2017, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Yea, it's expensive especially since I'll have to also replace the other switch that is currently there.

Hence my entire post, will it fit? Alas it does not so I'm unwilling to spend that much to replace one $12 switch.
I'd urge you at a minimum to swap it out for a Carling switch (instead of the crappy Rover hazard, which I'd wager will also fail on you at some point in the not too distant future even if you get a replacement...especially with the cheapo non-genuine version). If you carefully enlarge the hole in your factory plastic switch plate you should be able to fit the Carling in it's place. I can't say for sure obviously that your 25+ year old plastic will like that, but I based my RHD switch plate on the same overall dimenions as the factory plate.

I also have a harness that is plug-and-play with the factory Rover wiring if you don't want to cut the factory harness (uses the same male 3mm Lucas rists that plug directly into the factory wiring):
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But even using your own "jumper wires", if you get creative you can make smaller bullet connectors and get it to work (you just need to jerry-rig them to get them and crimp them down to fit into the smaller 3mm female multiplug in the UK wiring). Barring that, obviously you can also just cut/splice female spade connectors onto your factory harness as well....but not everyone wants to start hacking into their factory harness.
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