Mounting lights - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old November 29th, 2013, 12:47 PM
Landyman1's Avatar
Landyman1
Status: Offline
Landyman
1983 land rover 110 county
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 205
Mounting lights

Hello, I have been trying to mount 7" lights to the bumper but the wiring confuses me. I thought about wiring it to the rear foglight switch because that already has power going to it and I do not want to deal with the headache of wiring to the battery (which is inside the vehicle). Unfortunately I cannot find the wire that goes to the light or where to connect them. In short, I have no idea what I am doing. Please help. Pictures would be nice too. Thanks
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old November 29th, 2013, 01:27 PM
Rocky's Avatar
Rocky
Status: Offline
Chris
72 + D1 drivetrain
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Colonies Aka Boston
Posts: 8,792
No wiring harness?
Fog lights or driving/spot lights?
__________________
A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old November 29th, 2013, 01:40 PM
javelinadave
Status: Offline
-
-
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: -
Posts: 5,394
This has future electrical issues written all over it. Pay somebody to do it right if you don't have the skill set to do it yourself. You are going to burn up wiring, melt fuses or melt your fog light switch if you just wire them into the rear fog lights.
If you were in the PHX area I would wire it up correctly (hot from the battery and use a proper sized relay & wiring) for you in my driveway. Perhaps a local to you Defender Source member could help you out.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old November 29th, 2013, 02:34 PM
Jonesy's Avatar
Jonesy
Status: Offline
Craig
87 D110 (Ruby)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 4,447
Registry
Go on fleabay and buy a wiring harness plenty of dummy proof (just a saying ) ones out there - just match to the wattage of the new lights.
__________________
"The difference between stupidity and genius, is that genius has its limits." - Albert Einstein
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old November 29th, 2013, 03:46 PM
Landyman1's Avatar
Landyman1
Status: Offline
Landyman
1983 land rover 110 county
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 205
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4026678600.jpg
Views:	223
Size:	603.7 KB
ID:	85113

This is what came with it
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old November 29th, 2013, 04:08 PM
javelinadave
Status: Offline
-
-
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: -
Posts: 5,394
I'm seeing everything you need to install them correctly. Did it come with any instructions?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old November 29th, 2013, 05:12 PM
Nomar's Avatar
Nomar
Status: Offline
Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Central,Virginia
Posts: 4,291
Registry
Putting some lights on a vehicle is really just a gateway....
__________________


Real Rovers have round headlights!
Rent my
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
!
Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old November 29th, 2013, 05:18 PM
Rocky's Avatar
Rocky
Status: Offline
Chris
72 + D1 drivetrain
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Colonies Aka Boston
Posts: 8,792
Lesson one: Drill monting holes in bumper and bolt in lights.
__________________
A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old November 29th, 2013, 05:45 PM
BlackField's Avatar
BlackField
Status: Offline
Oscar
D110
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,640
Step two: bring it to the local stereo install place and save yourself the aggravation and no offense, avoid a bad installation.
__________________
Lemmings as you know them are a Disney fabricated lie. The truth is out there.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old November 30th, 2013, 02:18 AM
Landyman1's Avatar
Landyman1
Status: Offline
Landyman
1983 land rover 110 county
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
I'm seeing everything you need to install them correctly. Did it come with any instructions?
not really, tomorrow i am going to have to buy a longer harness because tge power wire is not long enough to reach the battery. Does anybody have any pictures of where they fastened the wires?
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old November 30th, 2013, 08:15 AM
Nomar's Avatar
Nomar
Status: Offline
Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Central,Virginia
Posts: 4,291
Registry
This is just basic stuff, Landyman.

If a wire is not long enough, add more wire.

Just start at the beginning.
JMO, if you're going to drive a 35 year old truck, you'll have to learn some of this stuff.
Do not take it to a shop to install the lights for you unless you don't have the time or interest.
In my past experience, the guys who have a shop put everything on their vehicle understand very little about how it works when it breaks down.
And it will break down.

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...+a+truck&sm=12
__________________


Real Rovers have round headlights!
Rent my
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
!
Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old November 30th, 2013, 08:25 AM
Jonesy's Avatar
Jonesy
Status: Offline
Craig
87 D110 (Ruby)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 4,447
Registry
C'mon - this is really simple. Yes you have everything you need! Like Jeff said if it isn't long enough - and most will not be just splice in (using crimp connectors/solder and then heat shrink tube) the correct gauge wire. You can get the correct gauge from HD or Autozone etc...

Wiring is easy - like water flow....the switch just interrupts the flow - power can not get to the lights without first going to the switch. Power can not get to the switch without first going to the relay. The switch and the relay must both be grounded.
Red = Power
Black - ground/negative
White is the interrupted circuit - or switch


OH...one more thing - those lights are cheapo shite...you will want to upgrade to better lights in the future - remember the old axiom - You get what you pay for.
__________________
"The difference between stupidity and genius, is that genius has its limits." - Albert Einstein
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old November 30th, 2013, 09:45 AM
javelinadave
Status: Offline
-
-
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: -
Posts: 5,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Landyman1 View Post
not really, tomorrow i am going to have to buy a longer harness because tge power wire is not long enough to reach the battery. Does anybody have any pictures of where they fastened the wires?
You can also grab power from the starter. In fact you will probably have to shorten the wire if you do that.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old November 30th, 2013, 09:49 AM
Jonesy's Avatar
Jonesy
Status: Offline
Craig
87 D110 (Ruby)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 4,447
Registry
go ahead and run the bare wires in black flex conduit - you can buy 20ft rolls of that at HD and or Autozone too.
You should run it in the flex conduit to protect it, then zip tie it, to keep it nice and stable so it doesn't flap around in the engine bay. Needless to say keep the conduit away from moving parts - and heat producing parts/pipes etc.
__________________
"The difference between stupidity and genius, is that genius has its limits." - Albert Einstein
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old November 30th, 2013, 10:10 AM
tebby's Avatar
tebby
Status: Offline
Justin Tebbenkamp
95 D-90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Blacksburg, VA, USA
Posts: 274
I'd highly recommend replacing all the wiring with marine grade (ancor brand wiring?). As well as using a fused relay like this http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=175724
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old December 1st, 2013, 12:34 AM
Landyman1's Avatar
Landyman1
Status: Offline
Landyman
1983 land rover 110 county
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Florida, USA
Posts: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonesy View Post
C'mon - this is really simple. Yes you have everything you need! Like Jeff said if it isn't long enough - and most will not be just splice in (using crimp connectors/solder and then heat shrink tube) the correct gauge wire. You can get the correct gauge from HD or Autozone etc... Wiring is easy - like water flow....the switch just interrupts the flow - power can not get to the lights without first going to the switch. Power can not get to the switch without first going to the relay. The switch and the relay must both be grounded. Red = Power Black - ground/negative White is the interrupted circuit - or switch OH...one more thing - those lights are cheapo shite...you will want to upgrade to better lights in the future - remember the old axiom - You get what you pay for.
what lights would you recommend?
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old December 1st, 2013, 01:10 AM
Nomar's Avatar
Nomar
Status: Offline
Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Central,Virginia
Posts: 4,291
Registry
Hella= good lights
__________________


Real Rovers have round headlights!
Rent my
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
!
Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old December 1st, 2013, 08:06 AM
Jonesy's Avatar
Jonesy
Status: Offline
Craig
87 D110 (Ruby)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 4,447
Registry
Well....I am partial to the Terrafirma 8" HID now that I have them...they make it look like daylight! And HID are far superior IMO

Something simple: Hella, like Jeff said are good, PIAA are also good - but I think Lightforce are better

So good, good, better - best...there you go
__________________
"The difference between stupidity and genius, is that genius has its limits." - Albert Einstein
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old December 1st, 2013, 08:22 AM
Roverlab
Status: Offline
Trevor Griffiths
85 110, 92 110, 92 RR, 06 LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Elizabethotwn, PA
Posts: 1,647
One could also use the alternator for a power source. Fused, feeding a relay- I use the waterproof hella 40 amp relays, overkill for the amperage, but once and done right?- and there are plenty of ground points under the hood. I also use shakeproof washers to ensure a good connection for the ground.
__________________
Roverlab is now British 4x4 Specialists.
Email is
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Same place, new dogs.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old December 1st, 2013, 04:17 PM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
Oh boy.

Like Dave said, just throwing these lights in as you have them now is just asking for trouble.

A bit of learning is in order.

First, the fuses:

Any time you run power from a source to an accessory, you need a fuse "inline" on your positive wire. This is to keep everything downstream (i.e., the lights, and the wire running to them) from setting your truck on fire if there is a short somewhere. If the lights short out and start drawing massive current (basically acting like an arc welder), your fuse will burn up and cut the power to the short. You can do inline fuses (they look like this), but try to avoid that. The reason you don't want to do an inline fuse on your wire is that you will eventually end up with fuses all over the place and it will be hard to track down the problem when something burns out.

A better solution for power distribution is to use a centrally-mounted fuse box:


A fuse panel (like the Blue Sea Systems model shown above) is an easy and clean way to centralize all of your accessory wiring. You run power and ground directly from the battery to the panel and then run all of your accessories from there. The battery box underneath the drivers seat is the perfect place to mount a fuse panel. For your lighting installation, you'll use a relay (more on that later) and run power from the fuse panel to the relay and then on to your lights.

Now, relays.

It's a really bad idea to hook high-powered accessories up directly to a switch. That sends a lot of current through the switch and you're risking it burning up and failing over time. Instead, you want to use the switch to switch a small amount of current to your relay, which is designed to switch the big current that the lights need. The relay has a small electromagnet (the "coil") that does the switching. There are always two connectors on the relay for the coil; one goes to your dashboard switch and the other goes to ground (do it nicely and ground your relay to the ground terminals on your fuse box). The relay also has a "common" connector, which is where the big current from your power source (ideally, your fuse panel) is attached. Finally, there are two output connectors on the relay: one called "N/O" for "normally open" and one called "N/C" "normally closed". The "N/O" is only powered when the coil is energized (i.e., your dashboard switch is on), so that's the one that you will want to connect directly to your lights. That's usually labeled "87" on most 12V automotive relays. The N/C output is not used for this application so you can leave that unwired.

Here's a wiring diagram to help you out:



Also, it is a good idea to solder a diode across the the coil terminals of your relay. A diode is just a one-way gate for electricity. The diode will keep electricity from the coil from flowing back to your dashboard switch, which could potentially burn out your switch over time. Solder the diode from 86 to 85, with the white stripe on the 85 side. Just like this:



Finally, the wiring.

It's pretty simple:

- Use good wire. Marine grade (like Ancor) is best.

- Buy a wire crimper and use the right crimp for your connector.

- Use good connectors. A long time ago, someone on this board taught me about heat shrink connectors and they are awesome. You crimp them like normal connectors and then heat them up to seal the connection. Here's a great place to buy them.

- Use the proper connectors for the your terminals and wire. Terminals and wire come in all variety of sizes and you want to pick the right style of connector for what you have. The Blue Sea fuse block, for example, uses #8-32 terminal screws so if you had some 14ga wire, you would buy these ring terminals to attach your wire.

- Sleeve your wire in some kind of wiring loom. As others have mentioned, you can get that black PVC stuff from Autozone. Personally, I like to use expandable braid sleeving. It's tough as nails and super easy to use. You can even buy high-temp versions for running wire near hot spots.

- Use grommets any time you run wire through a hole. This is super important and will help keep you from burning your truck up.

- Spend the time to properly route your wires. Alongside existing wiring and through existing holes is best, but make sure your wires are sleeved. Avoid hot areas like the exhaust and areas that might be exposed to road debris or lots of water.

- Use the right gauge wire for the job. Heavier gauge wire is more expensive and more difficult to run but it loses less power (i.e., your lights may shine brighter) and it's safer. Use this chart and the specs on your lights to find the correct wire gauge:

__________________
1987 Ex-MOD 110 Tithonus LHD
2013 LR4


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tail Light Boot Installation - Fixing Hosed Tail Lights JimC Misc. Chit-Chat 1 July 11th, 2017 04:14 PM
Mounting Lights to the Bar michael15 Defender Technical Discussions 3 February 9th, 2006 08:49 PM
Hinged fog lights. rustydefender Defender Technical Discussions 2 February 28th, 2005 09:33 PM
flickering lights nykx Defender Technical Discussions 1 November 12th, 2004 06:10 PM
Hella 4000 lights Nigel Buchan For Sale - Parts 4 November 26th, 2003 09:47 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:07 AM.


Copyright