Motor Mounts: 200TDI Transplant in 110 - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old February 4th, 2016, 06:28 PM
Naplm00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Do it and report back.
Yes Sir, ill get right on it lol
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  #22  
Old February 4th, 2016, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
I was going to swap mine with the 1991 Bronco v6 hydraulic motor mounts They are cheap as heck and should easily support the weight of a 200tdi More Information for WESTAR EM2698
It might be worth speaking to Westar to ask what the limits are. They could stand to increase sales if they do the job.
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  #23  
Old February 6th, 2016, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
It might be worth speaking to Westar to ask what the limits are. They could stand to increase sales if they do the job.


Well westar just happens to be one supplier. Check rockauto.com for others ...that being said this is a popular mount for people doing 460 and larger big block conversions in ford rangers

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...tor+mount,5552

I dont really have any doubts it would work fine


If anyone wants to come over with tools and help me swap mine lets do it! I just took my tools to my new house and have nothing to work with

Prob just need wrenches, jack and a socketset to get it done , maybe a grinder with cut off disc to shorten the studs if needed
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  #24  
Old February 7th, 2016, 04:34 PM
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I wish I read this a week ago when my engine was still out. I would of been the Guinea pig.
Still might.

Wonder if I should get 4 and do the tranny mounts to
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  #25  
Old February 7th, 2016, 04:53 PM
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This is what I did. After speaking with Robert, I moved the left hand side mount forward instead of aft of the original engine mount. This eliminated the concern of any heat from the exhaust breaking down the rubber in the mount.

I have not run the motor yet, so it's not a confirmed design. And I haven't installed the power steering lines (the power steering pump is directly above the left hand motor mount.
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  #26  
Old March 20th, 2016, 07:58 AM
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Anyone try this yet?
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  #27  
Old March 20th, 2016, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by tomaco1 View Post
Anyone try this yet?
One of several rookie mistakes I learned from during my swap was ordering non-genuine mounts.

The vibes were pretty bad so I installed originals from Safari HP. Stephen said they absolutely never use/recommend using aftermarket as the difference is noticeable between the two.

With the genuine mounts the vibes, at idle, are still pretty silly Imo. The 2.5na I took out didn't vibe as strong at idle.

I plan to swap in genuine at the TCase also but I'm not expecting huge changes. SFHP says they don't usually run genuine in the back as the changes are not noticeable.

This is just one of those things that I didn't notice and/or pay enough attention to when I was making the swap decision. The 300's I've seen and driven seem to have a noticeably lower natural vibe at idle Imo.
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  #28  
Old March 20th, 2016, 09:16 AM
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The 110 is getting a galvy chassis so keen to hear whether either the Mercedes or Westar mounts have made an improvement.
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  #29  
Old March 20th, 2016, 10:01 AM
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If I knew the Westar were a direct fit(without mods to the truck or engine) I'd order them and give them a shot.
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  #30  
Old March 20th, 2016, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by tomaco1 View Post
If I knew the Westar were a direct fit(without mods to the truck or engine) I'd order them and give them a shot.
Once our fillings rattle out of our teeth we should give it a try.

4 out of 5 dentists recommend softer mounts for 200 Swaps.
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  #31  
Old March 20th, 2016, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Well westar just happens to be one supplier. Check rockauto.com for others ...that being said this is a popular mount for people doing 460 and larger big block conversions in ford rangers

1991 FORD BRONCO 4.9L L6 Motor Mount | RockAuto

I dont really have any doubts it would work fine


If anyone wants to come over with tools and help me swap mine lets do it! I just took my tools to my new house and have nothing to work with

Prob just need wrenches, jack and a socketset to get it done , maybe a grinder with cut off disc to shorten the studs if needed
Interesting how you found the engine mount, I found that same engine mount for F150 but it is significantly thicker than stock though. It won't work. I didn't try to bolt it up but it was at least twice thick. I know it is Rover, but I don't think it has that kinda of tolerance to fit two, not just one engine mount that is twice as thick on both sides.

I have read somewhere that Bearmach brand engine mount is softer and I bought Bearmach and a different brand to check and indeed bearmach is definitely softer as I could tell with my finger.

Robert,

If this kit is to be manufactured, can you make the new motor mount brackets on the engine end and leave the frame alone?
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  #32  
Old March 21st, 2016, 07:24 PM
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ah thats a bummer, too bad !
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  #33  
Old March 21st, 2016, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Once our fillings rattle out of our teeth we should give it a try.

4 out of 5 dentists recommend softer mounts for 200 Swaps.
ime, hard vibration is a sign the pump isn't tuned correctly.
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  #34  
Old March 21st, 2016, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steinhnj View Post

I have not run the motor yet, so it's not a confirmed design. And I haven't installed the power steering lines (the power steering pump is directly above the left hand motor mount.
Not much room there.

I wonder if doing only one side have any effect... like having shackles and leaf springs... one end is fixed but the other side is loose.
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  #35  
Old March 21st, 2016, 10:34 PM
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Just got the power steering lines back from the shop. I will install tomorrow and post some pics. I have the Range Rover lines on there now so it's quite hacked, but at least I have power steering.

Everything looks like it should work out fine though as far as clearances with the mounts on both sides. I think going forward of the mount instead of aft is the way to go. It gets the mount away from the heat of the exhaust. That was done based on Robert's recommendation - not taking credit for the design.
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  #36  
Old March 21st, 2016, 10:41 PM
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Neil, the forward position of the original left side mount, isn't that where the power ateering pump is? Do you have enough space between the pump and motor mount?
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  #37  
Old March 22nd, 2016, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
ime, hard vibration is a sign the pump isn't tuned correctly.
Doug, that makes total sense to me. Compared to Mike Sword's 200 my revs somewhat drown out the diesel knock. In fact, last weekend I had it out on the road for 30-40 mins and even though I have a 1.4 case, 5th felt too tall. I have new injector nozzles and I be the IP was set to compensate for the old dirty ones.

Are you headed through NOVA in the near term by any chance? I would love to have this thing set to factory specs.
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  #38  
Old July 2nd, 2016, 08:20 AM
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Any updates on this? Big Mercedes hydraulic motor mounts a bolt on for 200tdi? Is there a part number?
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  #39  
Old July 2nd, 2016, 09:06 AM
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  #40  
Old July 2nd, 2016, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmwong View Post
Any updates on this? Big Mercedes hydraulic motor mounts a bolt on for 200tdi? Is there a part number?
I recently swapped out some cheap after markets for Genuine. I noticed some difference but I've sense read http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdiguide.htm that suggest/supply a non-genuine mount that is supposed to be softer. The Genuine I have are pretty stiff. If you take a look at the pics they post on their site they can press/move the rib of the mount with their thumb. Can't do that with my genuine mounts. Just an FYI cuz I wish I'd noticed this before I bought and installed genuine mounts.
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