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  #1  
Old April 11th, 2012, 06:07 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Motor Hot at Idle

Searched under radiator but didn't really find my answer.

Anyways, running around town, truck seems to keep in under the 180 deg mark (running VDO gauge) but last night got sidetracked and had it idling. Came out to the truck and it was creepin' close to the 220 mark. As soon as started driving in the 35 mph zone it went down. Outside temps have been in the 40-70 degree range.

I tested the clutch fan with the newspaper trick and it was fine (which makes sense as I changed it a couple of years ago). I don't see or smell any antifreeze leaks.

I am thinking radiator but if that is the case what is the best replacement/fix. And is there a way to see if the radiator is shot or not? Do D1 or RRC raditators fit?

Thanks for any info.

-Don
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  #2  
Old April 11th, 2012, 06:34 PM
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So basically you are saying it doesn't cool properly with the fan engaged?

Check the rad for different temperature zones .... If one are is cooler then it's probably blocked. Flush / rodding or recore would fix it.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Do D1 or RRC raditators fit?
I can tell you no on the D1 radiator.

I would do things like check the thermostat is opening and get an IR gun and verify temps as well as inlet and outlet temps (there should be a significant drop) on the radiator before replacing, but it's likely it's time for a clean or recore or outright replacement.
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  #4  
Old April 11th, 2012, 07:58 PM
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When was the last time you flushed the radiator and/or block? Checked to see if it was topped up? How old is the radiator? Just get it re-cored at a good rad shop if its bad.
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  #5  
Old April 11th, 2012, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
When was the last time you flushed the radiator and/or block? Checked to see if it was topped up? How old is the radiator? Just get it re-cored at a good rad shop if its bad.
Thanks - answers:

I had Foreign Cars in Monmouth flush it last year. :Thumps head: - I need to recheck if it's topped up. Not sure how old the raditor is - it's been in there since I bought the truck 4 years ago. I will poke around some more and see what I can find out. Is just a re-core good or any other tricks/tips a radiator shop can do?

BTW, I dug up an old post where you were looking at Grove Radiator down in Neptune - did you end up using them? If so - how where they?

------ Follow up post added April 11th, 2012 09:02 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I can tell you no on the D1 radiator.

I would do things like check the thermostat is opening and get an IR gun and verify temps as well as inlet and outlet temps (there should be a significant drop) on the radiator before replacing, but it's likely it's time for a clean or recore or outright replacement.
Thanks Charles - I actually have a replacement thermostat on the shelf. Will pop the old one and see if it's opening. Good on the IR gun tip - will pick one of them up and see what is going on.

------ Follow up post added April 11th, 2012 09:03 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
So basically you are saying it doesn't cool properly with the fan engaged?

Check the rad for different temperature zones .... If one are is cooler then it's probably blocked. Flush / rodding or recore would fix it.
Thanks Jason - I'll combine this with what Charles was saying about the inlet/outlet temp check with the IR gun. Will post what I find out in a day or 2.
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  #6  
Old April 11th, 2012, 09:18 PM
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Check the fins with your fingers and see if it falls apart, salt will do that. Double check your hoses too as they may have collapsed and look good from the outside.Recore is good as new stock, (some may argue different). There should be a thread or article here about upgrading to how ever many cores more. The guy is like half a block from the train station in Bradley Beach next to Suds Bar or something. You know how township borders are, lol. Forgot to mention that you might wan to repeat the scenario to see if it happens again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Thanks - answers:

I had Foreign Cars in Monmouth flush it last year. :Thumps head: - I need to recheck if it's topped up. Not sure how old the raditor is - it's been in there since I bought the truck 4 years ago. I will poke around some more and see what I can find out. Is just a re-core good or any other tricks/tips a radiator shop can do?

BTW, I dug up an old post where you were looking at Grove Radiator down in Neptune - did you end up using them? If so - how where they?

------ Follow up post added April 11th, 2012 09:02 PM ------



Thanks Charles - I actually have a replacement thermostat on the shelf. Will pop the old one and see if it's opening. Good on the IR gun tip - will pick one of them up and see what is going on.

------ Follow up post added April 11th, 2012 09:03 PM ------



Thanks Jason - I'll combine this with what Charles was saying about the inlet/outlet temp check with the IR gun. Will post what I find out in a day or 2.
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  #7  
Old April 11th, 2012, 10:12 PM
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you might find your hand / fingers will give you enough info on the rad ... if its blocked it would be significantly cooler than a free flowing section. remove the grill rather than doing it from the engine side ... that way you'll keep your fingers!

Also check the fluid level and make sure the expansion bottle cap is on firmly ... the engine won't cool properly if the system is not pressurized
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  #8  
Old April 12th, 2012, 03:34 AM
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All good ideas..

Check that your timing is correct I have found that you could be off enough to make your motor run hot idleing around and offroad going slow.
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  #9  
Old April 12th, 2012, 06:46 AM
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Don, I went through similar problems last year where my truck would be fine (running around 200) at speed but at idle would easily climb to 215-220. I did all of the things said above beginning with checking temps with an IR and running my fingers over the radiator. I first replaced my fan clutch as it seemed questionable after the tests...no change in the engine temps. I moved on to removing the radiator and washing the mud out (RC is good for packing the radiator fins full of mud). I then reinstalled the radiator and coupled it with a new thermostat and hoses. This seemed to make a difference for a week or two but then I started having the same problems again. I pulled the radiator again and took it to a local shop to have it flow tested where it passed with flying colors! The guy in the radiator shop did recommend installing an external oil cooler so you don't burden the radiator with the job of cooling both the engine coolant and oil...I ignored this recommendation but acknowledge it is probably not a bad idea. I was stumped so I put everything back together again to give it another shot in case I had air bubbles or something from the last fill. About a week later with only minimal driving of the truck I noticed the water pump starting to weep...replaced that and my truck will now idle at 195 all day regardless of outside temps.

Not implying you should jump to replacing your water pump but rather, don't rule it out and assuming your radiator passes a flow test, I would replace a water pump before a radiator as it is much cheaper!
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  #10  
Old April 12th, 2012, 09:27 AM
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x2 on water pump fix.
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  #11  
Old April 12th, 2012, 09:36 AM
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Posting from cell phone sucks.

I dealt with running hot in my Defender for a few years and by hot I mean 190ish, I've run a 180 thermostat after I was educated on cooling. For a while I was keeping cool with a RRC fan and clutch. Last year or so the radiator couldn't keep up, especially on the highway. I just installed a new radiator from Roverguy and I can't get the truck hot. I drove it 75-80 fo 2 hours yesterday cool as a cucumber.

We have nearly 20 year old radiators, they are a little expensive but so simple to replace and its also a good time to do the oil cooler lines. Its cheap to have them rodded out but the benefits are marginal, I've been down the cheap fuck road. It will be interesting to see how it does when its 98 and I have the AC running.
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  #12  
Old April 12th, 2012, 09:57 AM
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Thanks Jeff and 1of40.

I'll pick up an IR gun today - need to go to Lowes anyway. And it seems like one of those tools that are good to have around.

it seems I might just have to go through the whole system. Might just do what Jeff did and pop the radiator out and get it flow tested - and replace the thermostat and hoses while it's out. I've had the truck for 4 years and haven't done much to the cooling system save for the fan clutch so it might be time to get it all benchmarked. Seems like the big cost is the radiator but maybe a re-core will be fine.

Thanks for the help!
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  #13  
Old April 12th, 2012, 10:08 AM
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The fins on the water pump can corrode over time and become nubs. Or it comes out of round while spinning. If you can move the fan from front to back with your hand and see the rod coming out of the pump moving then you know your pump is going/bad.
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  #14  
Old April 12th, 2012, 10:10 AM
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If he's going to remove the radiator and fan, he might as well do the pump. It's easy to get to then and good insurance either way.
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  #15  
Old April 12th, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
If he's going to remove the radiator and fan, he might as well do the pump. It's easy to get to then and good insurance either way.
Yeah, I was just thinking the same thing and RovahFarm has them for under a C-Note. One of those "might as well" deals while everything is apart.
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  #16  
Old April 12th, 2012, 10:42 AM
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Don, Dan posted a thread last year of his crazy new radiator.

------ Follow up post added April 12th, 2012 10:45 AM ------

Found it.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...eferrerid=1743
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  #17  
Old April 12th, 2012, 02:29 PM
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Grab the snout of the water pump and see if it wiggles. If so, replace. Cheap insurance. They usually go bad between 100k-150k.,
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  #18  
Old April 12th, 2012, 06:16 PM
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Please don't buy those cheap ass made in china water pumps, this is a good part to pay a full price on.
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  #19  
Old April 13th, 2012, 09:15 AM
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all of the above and make sure the belt is tight.
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  #20  
Old April 13th, 2012, 09:21 AM
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but not too tight or you'll experience a premature bearing failure ... ask me how I know ... also when you remove it ... make sure you record what hole each bolt goes in otherwise it's a bitch to figure out where they go ... ask me how I know ....
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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