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  #21  
Old February 5th, 2008, 07:30 AM
Andrew Vick
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Andrew Vick
95 D90
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Mine was ~$106 and yours was around $178, IIRC.
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  #22  
Old February 5th, 2008, 07:56 AM
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Charles Galpin
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bastards! :D
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  #23  
Old February 5th, 2008, 09:25 AM
Andrew Vick
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Andrew Vick
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I know! When I heard there were 2 possible variants, I automatically assumed mine would be more. Got lucky this time
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  #24  
Old February 5th, 2008, 12:20 PM
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Jack Walter
1966 109 SW Diesel
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That looks SO much easier to deal with than the last heater core I had to replace. You really don't want to know how much of a pain in the butt it is to replace the heater core in a Range Rover Classic.
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  #25  
Old February 5th, 2008, 04:46 PM
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John B.
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The two cores (straight vs. bent pipes) are different sizes. The striaght pipe ones are smaller. I don't think they are interchangable.

Make sure you seal well around the core to prevent cold air leaking past. Also make sure the cold/hot flap is sealing properly.
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  #26  
Old February 5th, 2008, 04:48 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Bugger. Does anyone know which works on a 110, or even what the dimensions of the new one are? I can pull the current one and measure.
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  #27  
Old February 5th, 2008, 06:12 PM
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Doug Crowther
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Charles,

I know going without heat in Feb isn't really an option but there is an aftermarket aluminum heater core made by Bearmach that is supposed to be a signifigant upgrade as far as heat transfer into the cabin area. DAP is a Bearmach distributor- not sure who else is over here. My friends in the UK say the alloy ones are a major improvement.

For what its worth- after your visit I am torn as to which 110 to keep. May sell the tdi truck.... anyone looking for a 110 200 tdi in Stratos Blue ? Can't make up my mind- a check would help.
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  #28  
Old February 5th, 2008, 07:32 PM
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Charles Galpin
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It sure is an option! You probably never knew Mike Hippert, but he used to routinely drive around in the dead of winter with no doors (and probably no top) in his D90. I can deal with a little cold in an enclosed vehicle . I'll contact DAP and see what it costs, otherwise a stock one will be fine.

Tough call on which one to keep. I'd list all the major items and rate them. See which one comes out on top for you and keep it

charles
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  #29  
Old February 6th, 2008, 04:35 AM
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Doug Crowther
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On heater cores the downward facing pipes fits 90's and 110's to 91. 91 up the pipes come straight out the side.
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  #30  
Old February 23rd, 2008, 06:48 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I took my heater box out today. At least on mine the top piece is all one piece all the way across. I'll post pictures once I'm done. I have have wire wheeled and cleaned it up, but need to paint it and go get some foam before I can reinstall.

I can't believe that nothing but foam held the heater core inside the box...

charles
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  #31  
Old February 26th, 2008, 08:54 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Jim, what kind of foam did you use between the heater box and the firewall? I'm not finding anything that looks like it will duplicate what was there before.

charles
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  #32  
Old March 10th, 2008, 07:27 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Well, I finally went to West Marine and paid waaay too much for some foam rubber that did the trick.

I started off with the best intentions of documenting this fix but completely forgot to take pictures with the new foam installed, and there wasn't any point of taking pictures once re-installed. But here are the shots I took anyway.

http://lhsw.com/gallery/janeyHeaterCore


I wish I had checked before re-installing, but it appears the blower fan is only working on one speed (slow). I honestly don't recall if both worked before

But I've got heat, just in time for the warm weather!

Oh, I should have mentioned that I ended up getting the heater core from DAP for about $110 shipped.
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