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  #1  
Old October 9th, 2013, 07:57 PM
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Media blasting stealies

Does anyone have any experience either media blasting (sand, silica, walnut shells, soda etc.) NATO paint off of D-130 wheels?

I know some mil-spec paints are chemical resistant, but my powder coating guy (or at least the one guy I talked to through a referral) was recommending a chemical strip over media blasting.

Specifically, what would a typical chemical strip cost (per wheel) and is it worth the premium over standard media blasting?

The wheels have 1-2 coats of NATO paint, not like 10 layers as I have seen before. Still with 5 rims, I'm thinking it just may be more cost effective to chemically strip.

Just weighing costs here. Not looking for THE perfect outcome, and would probably prefer standard paint with 2-part epoxy primer as opposed to powder coating but am open to suggestions.

Not looking to spend $100/wheel just in prep. This guy was saying that a 2-part chemical bath followed by a bake to get rid of residual chemicals followed by a zinc coating. That sounds great but pricey.

Any thoughts or experiences would be helpful.
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  #2  
Old October 9th, 2013, 08:03 PM
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Soda blasting would be the gentlest way of removing the paint.
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Old October 9th, 2013, 08:24 PM
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Had mine sandblasted, cost was about $15-$20 per wheel. They came out great. The finish was nice, and they took paint well.
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Old October 9th, 2013, 08:30 PM
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If your blasting them yourself be sure to do it in a well ventilated area and wear a respirator. I don't know what the Brit's use but CARC paint (what the US Military uses) is nasty lethal shit.
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Old October 9th, 2013, 09:34 PM
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nato wheels are 1/4 inch steel and don't need to be shot with media. Media are for soft metals etc.
Use http://www.blackbeautyabrasives.com/products/ medium grit otherwise you will be at it forever.
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  #6  
Old October 9th, 2013, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
nato wheels are 1/4 inch steel and don't need to be shot with media. Media are for soft metals etc.
Use http://www.blackbeautyabrasives.com/products/ otherwise you will be at it forever.
Thanks Doug.
Yeah, I was thinking that we could get aggressive with the abrasive. You reall can't damage these things.

I just didn't want to get sucked into the belief that they need 24-hrs in a chem strip bath and end up spending $150/wheel just in prep. I need to find a sandblaster that can get them cleaned up decent enough to get them painted.
I mean for f@cksake, they're just steel wheels, not über-rare Alpinas like on my old E9!
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Old October 12th, 2013, 08:36 PM
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Got a hold of a blast cabinet.
You guys were right, that NATO or CARC paint is nasty stuff. A heavy abrasive made quick work of it though and I'd I spent about 40 minutes per wheel after factoring set up and clean up.

Just as a comparison I blasted another type of steel wheel with normal paint (rover type but 15"x8") and it was much easier, with each wheel taking 20 minutes.

Point here is that NATO paint is tough as nails and really needs to be burned off or blasted!
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  #8  
Old October 12th, 2013, 08:37 PM
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  #9  
Old October 13th, 2013, 09:51 PM
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All cleaned, prepped and ready for paint.

What do you guys think?
Was thinking PPG 2-part epoxy primer with 2-coats LR Alpine white, but since they are only wheels and don't need to hold a mirror finish, do you think a simple Eastwood 2-part epoxy primer would be fine for the first coat? In other words, the sanding qualities of the primer are not a concern, which is among the reason PPG is so widely used I'm told.

Also, does the typical Alpine white base need a clear coat system for the wheels, or can I just shoot two coats of paint without anything else?

Again, not trying to make it shiny, just trying to one step better than rattle can for durability.
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Old October 13th, 2013, 11:21 PM
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If you are going white then clear will make the wheels easier to keep white in the long run...
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Old October 18th, 2013, 09:21 PM
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Things of beauty....

2-part PPG 401 epoxy primer with PPG Alpine White w/ clear coat.
I realize that the proper OEM method may have been single stage, but these won't stay shiny for long, so they will look like single stage in no time.
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Old October 18th, 2013, 09:24 PM
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More...

Can't load more than 1 photo at a time with Apple devices!
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  #13  
Old October 18th, 2013, 09:24 PM
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One last...
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  #14  
Old October 19th, 2013, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Nice. Did you do the painting, or have it done?

-Jeff
Thanks
Actually, a little of both. A buddy with a shop set me up with the booth and let me have at it. I didn't mix the paint though, he did.
I could have spent more time prepping them, getting all blemishes out, but I think they are just fine.

Any thoughts on whether I should use tubes or go tubeless with BFG AT 265/75/16s?

I'm running 265/75/16 BFG KM1s now with tubes....on tube-type wolf wheels and there's no balance issues and the truck will do 80.

The new ANR 1534 rims don't have that slight rolled bead lock specifically for tubeless tires but I'm sure tubeless would be fine unless I bounce off a rock or root while at 10psi. However, I never really find myself in a situation where airing down is really necessary and even when I do it's down to 15psi. I don't think I'd have a problem either way (tubes vs tubeless) but sorta like the extra durability of a tubed setup.
I've got time to decide. Not buying a new set of tires right now and will keep my current wolf setup for anothe month or so.

BTW, I may offer the 15x8 steel rover wheels (5) pictured in one of the photos later this month if my current buyer doesn't follow through soon. I'll measure the offset befor posting, but they are wide enough to accomodate a pretty wide tire with 8" and would look pretty baddass on any rover.
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  #15  
Old October 19th, 2013, 12:45 PM
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I would skip the tubes. I've been running BFG MT 255/85 tubeless on ANR1534 wheels for over a year now and haven't had any issues. Lowest I air them down is about 13 psi.
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Old October 19th, 2013, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
I wouldn't run tubes. IMO the only reason to tubes is if you are the in the middle of nowhere for an extended period and need to have the ability to be self sufficient and fix them yourself. BTW the middle of nowhere doesn't exist in the lower 48. -Jeff
You've not driven through Wyoming I'm guessing.
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  #17  
Old October 19th, 2013, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by meatblanket View Post
I would skip the tubes. I've been running BFG MT 255/85 tubeless on ANR1534 wheels for over a year now and haven't had any issues. Lowest I air them down is about 13 psi.
Thanks Jeff & Mike
That's what I thought too, but it's nice to know that I've got an extra level of leak protection.
Nothing sucks more than having some slow leak at the bead or valve stem.
Still, I've prepped these well enough, removed all the pitting etc., so I think you're probably right. Tubeless is the answer
I'll post up pictures when they're mounted.
Now I've got to find the best deal on BFG ATs. Tire Rack has them for $193 each. It seems like I could do better
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Old October 19th, 2013, 01:18 PM
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A tubed tire is not an extra level of leak protection. I've had more random morning flats with tubed tires than I have with tubeless. For example... I've had zero random morning flats with tubeless tires and probably 5 with tubed tires. It's not even an extra level of durability. The bonus of tubes is you can easily repair that punctured tire because the tire itself isn't holding the air. The dumb tube on the inside is. If you get a puncture with a tubed tire your tube will still pop. You can replace the tube and it will continue working unlike a tubeless where the tire has to be repaired/plugged whatever.

You probably won't have many issues with random flats as your wheels were prepped and painted, but tubes are lame and annoying for daily driving and I would not recommend messing around with them based on personal experiences. The real issue of running tubeless on a tube type wheel is you don't have the raised bump that helps hold the bead up against the rim lip. This means that the tire isn't being held there and the bead could potentially move off the lip and cause air loss and go flat.

Plenty of people run tubeless on the 1534s and don't have issues so I would suggest you do that to avoid having to even deal with tubes.
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Old October 19th, 2013, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
I mean for f@cksake, they're just steel wheels, not über-rare Alpinas like on my old E9!
Don't go messing up the Batmobile! BTW - this VERY nice 74' will be coming on the market soon here in Leesburg, VA. Send a PM if you want to add to your collection of cool toys. I'll put you in touch with the owner.
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  #20  
Old October 19th, 2013, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Many times. Just because its open space doesn't mean its desolate. I think HWY 50 in Nevada is about as close to nowhwere as it gets, and your never more than a day away from a tire shop. -Jeff
lol. city folks.
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