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  #1  
Old February 13th, 2012, 11:45 PM
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Bryan Adams
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Matching keys FYI

I have seen some scattered info on the site, and this may be old news - but I wanted to share just in case. It cost a bit more than buying new cylinders from RN, but I managed to get my ignition key to work all the locks on my 97. I bought the car with only an ignition key, and a locksmith came out and an hour later, one key works everything.
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  #2  
Old February 14th, 2012, 01:39 AM
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So now your ignition key works your doors?
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  #3  
Old February 14th, 2012, 06:02 AM
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http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...teering+column
Jim C helped me with mine, wasn't to hard to do.
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  #4  
Old February 14th, 2012, 08:12 AM
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Bryan Adams
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Yes, my ignition key works very lock on the truck now.
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  #5  
Old February 14th, 2012, 12:48 PM
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I was a locksmith for over 20 years and rekeyed and made many keys for auto's here in the USA.

Take a look at this link. If you scroll down, you will see a picture with 2 lock barrels, one short, the other long. The long one is the type needed for the longer ignition key, which also requires a different handle to accommodate it.

http://www.repairmylandrover.co.uk/d...el-replacement

IF you use your existing door cylinder, the ignition key will NOT fully insert into the lock cylinder. The twisting action you place on the key will eventually weaken the key and you will twist the key or break it off in the door lock. The twisting action of the key is designed to take the torque from the shoulder back towards the head of the key, NOT on the section the that acts on the lock wafers.

THE IGNITION KEY WILL NOT FULLY INSERT INTO THE LOCKS OF THE nas D90'S. Our NAS door keys are 0.388" wide at the shoulder (the point when the key butts up and stops inserting into the lock) the ignition key is 0.41" at the shoulder. The ignition key, because of it's length, cannot be fully inserted into the door lock, the ignition key's shoulder never come to rest in the door lock and probably would not insert into the dust cover of the door lock anyway because of it's larger width, 0.41".

The only way to correctly do this project is to replace the door handles & rekey those new cylinders to your existing ignition key (or replace the entire set of locks to the 2007+ D90 locks).

The link of JimC's, http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...teering+column
even shows the longer lock barrel and new handle that will accept it.

Your locksmith in Atlanta did you no long term favors, because your key will eventually twist off.... then you'll need a REAL locksmith, unless you carry a spare set of keys.
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  #6  
Old February 14th, 2012, 01:33 PM
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I have almost zero twisting force. Turns very easy. I know the doors are shorter, but he modded it for me. Works very well ... So dunno, but I am happy
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  #7  
Old February 14th, 2012, 01:33 PM
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Today's little project

I respectfully disagree.

I bought a new set of LR barrel locks. Upon opening the package and Inserting the ignition key I found one of the gates to be unable to be modified to fit the key so I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to remove it. Pic 1

I then tried the barrels in the door latch assembly and found that one of the other gates despite being nearly flush sat a little high on the top. Pic 2

I then ground down the gate so it sat flush and retried in the door latch and it worked just fine. Pic 3

As you can see the ignition key sits flat against the top of the cylinder assembly.

This was done to my 1997 ST using a 2012 matching lock set from LR I purchased from Safari Heritage Parts. I purchased a LR 110 5 lock set that all matched so I have a pair of spares too.
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I have not been asked once if my 90 was a Jeep after I installed my new decal!
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  #8  
Old February 14th, 2012, 01:35 PM
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What about on ST doors.
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  #9  
Old February 14th, 2012, 01:38 PM
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Mine worked on my soft top no problem. I never really run with a top on it, and with one pin of the 5 removed you could assume a 20% decrease in the locks security aspect, maybe slightly more with my trimming a second one, but hey its not like a soft top is knife proof.
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  #10  
Old February 14th, 2012, 01:52 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johndoe007 View Post
I respectfully disagree.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johndoe007 View Post

I bought a new set of LR barrel locks. ....

This was done to my 1997 ST using a 2012 matching lock set from LR I .....
Patrick,

I am not a locksmith but just from reading Dennis' post I would say you are more proving his point than dismissing it.

He states that his information applies to locks prior to 2007 as would be fitted stock to our trucks from the mid 90s. You mention that your new locks are 2012.

I would say that you have confirmed that a new 2012 lock set can be configured to use the ignition key to its correct depth properly. Not that the original locks can be, which seems to have been his point.

Ian
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  #11  
Old February 14th, 2012, 01:55 PM
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ahh too correct!! I read it to say something else entirely.
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I have not been asked once if my 90 was a Jeep after I installed my new decal!
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  #12  
Old February 14th, 2012, 02:18 PM
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Pat...what did the set cost you? I am not worried about people getting in either. I have an alarm with a microwave sensor so when the tops off not to worried. Just be nice to get rid of a darn key. I would like to get 3 barrels and be done.

...rich
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  #13  
Old February 14th, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Another aspect of this that has not been discussed is the brass wafer spacing.

To begin with, spacing is measured from the shoulder to the centerline of the 1st (brass) wafer, sometimes called head-space. The, "center to center", of the spacing of each wafer is usually identical within each lock towards the tip of the key. The head-space on the NAS D90 door & ignition lock is NOT the same. Though you can "fudge" this what ends up happening is the wafers end up "resting" on various parts of the key. The wafer is designed to "rest" on the flat parts of the key and not on the angled "ramps". The spacing on the NAS wafers, igntion and door locks seems to be about the same though the "head-space" is considerably different .

If you guys do modify the height of the wafers, be sure to remove all the burrs on the sides of the wafers (lay flat on sand paper and rub) as they will keep the wafer from sliding up & down in the "wafer chamber" in lock cylinder. Also, in modifying the wafer height, try to put a radius on the top surface that is the same as the radius of the lock cylinder.
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  #14  
Old February 14th, 2012, 02:48 PM
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We have door locks?

Seriously though...this is on my list of things to look into at some point as I don't have door keys...but have never locked my doors...
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  #15  
Old February 14th, 2012, 03:01 PM
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ive grown so used ot reaching my arm out the door to open it ive smashed my hand on the window in my wifes car a number of times
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  #16  
Old February 14th, 2012, 03:36 PM
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You must be able to get ignition switches that use the short door barrels. My 1991 ex-mod truck uses the same key in every lock (doors, ignition and fuel) and it is the correct length for the door barrels. Of course my steering column has no locking mechanism.
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  #17  
Old February 14th, 2012, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spook View Post
Pat...what did the set cost you? I am not worried about people getting in either. I have an alarm with a microwave sensor so when the tops off not to worried. Just be nice to get rid of a darn key. I would like to get 3 barrels and be done.

...rich
Sorry, I don't recall the price as it was part of a larger order and I definitely recommend getting the set of 5 as two of the spring retainers that hold the cylinder insider the latch assembly were not exactly quality construction and will have to be replaced at some point.
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