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  #1  
Old September 12th, 2012, 07:40 PM
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steve louis
1994 D90
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Marker Lights

any help on my issues with marker lights would be appreciated.

first, one of my rear marker lights was not working. after a considerable amount of messing around, i determined that the bulb does not seat properly in the bulb holder (original). it physically fits well, but does not make contact well. i confirmed this by making the light that was working go dark -- it too seats poorly! was able to pry out the small contact wires and now it seems to stay on when its supposed to. I am afraid that once it starts rattling around, contact will be lost and the lights will go out. is this normal? are there new/better bulbs and holders i should look into? any tricks to maintain contact?

second, both my front marker lights are not on. unfortunately, i cannot remove the lens the easy way by removing the screws, as the rear nut is turning also. since i cannot get to the nut either through the wheel well or the engine compartment (double walls), i am thinking i need to remove the eyebrow and come up from below. is this correct? is there another, better way? thanks.
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  #2  
Old September 12th, 2012, 09:05 PM
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Scott
1997 D90 ST #1444
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You can buy new connectors for the rear lights... Check out ECR's site and find the fix for the 94's. One you fix it, put some Dielectric grease in the connection.

And, if you remove the wing vents, your should be able to reach in and get to the nuts on the back of the marker lights.
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Old September 12th, 2012, 09:46 PM
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evilfij
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You can drill off the heads of the screws if you are careful or if you are me, you can buy two replacement lights (since you have a 1994 they are trucklite and not terribly expensive) and then break the lights and attack the screws with some vicegrips on the rivnuts behind.

Unless you pull the eyebrow (which will probably end up with you replacing a bunch of the fasteners) or the headlight bucket, you are not getting to the backside. When you are done, refit the screws with antisieze and make sure the rivnuts are either replaced or JB welded or otherwise not spinning.

$9 each from george at roversdownsouth
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Old September 12th, 2012, 11:23 PM
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steve louis
1994 D90
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marker lights

scott and evilfij -- excellent ideas! will work on this weekend and report back. thanks.
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Old September 13th, 2012, 06:46 PM
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steve louis
1994 D90
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here's an update. i removed the wing vents, but unfortunately, still does not allow access. also removed the headlight bucket, but also a no-go. i am reluctant to take on the eyebrow, so i broke the light -- great way to take out my frustration. i am at point where i need to buy a pair of offset needle nose pliers to hold the rivnuts. assuming i get that done, i am hoping evilfij can elaborate on putting it back together (i know i need to buy a new light!). i get putting anti sieze on the screw before replacement, but how would i replace the rivnuts? also, if i went the jb weld approach, how do i actually use it get the rivnut from spinning (glob a bunch on the back)? what about drilling out the rivnut and using self-tapping screws instead? and scott, picked up some dielectric, but haven't applied yet. thanks.
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Old September 14th, 2012, 08:02 PM
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Ethan
'73 SIII/ D90 Hybrid
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You might be able to rescue your rear bulb sockets by mixing up a weak batch of hydrochloric acid and water (remember to add the acid to the water, not the other way around). You can get it at Home Depot (muriatic acid) in the floor products section (it's commonly used for cleaning/ etching concrete floors). They sell (what they call) weak acid in a red and green 1 gallon container. Soak the socket in the mixture, then soak it in water (a couple times) until you are sure it's free of acid. That should strip any oxides that have built up on the surface of the metal. Then, you can load some dielectric into the connector to prevent corrosion, and add your bulb.
I know I may get flamed for suggesting this admittedly extreme and dangerous fix, but it works well. I've saved several connectors loaded with green fuzziness. It also works great on wire that won't take solder (like an original '73 S3 harness, for example :P).
Remember, wear gloves, wear eye protection and don't drink the acid.
Or, you can just by a new socket.
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