Making rust free doors stay that way...advice sought. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 1st, 2011, 10:59 AM
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Bill Campbell
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Making rust free doors stay that way...advice sought.

So I just purchased some doors from a member and they are in solid condition and I would like to keep them that way. I need to paint them to match my truck color but besides that what can I do to insure the bottoms not rusting out...again?

B
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  #2  
Old December 1st, 2011, 11:02 AM
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Waxoyl?
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  #3  
Old December 1st, 2011, 11:08 AM
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Bill Campbell
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Tony, it's really the conviction with which you say that that strikes the confidence in me.
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  #4  
Old December 1st, 2011, 11:11 AM
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Hey, I only know from exotic dancers with exotic peugout engines.
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  #5  
Old December 1st, 2011, 11:15 AM
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Aside from Waxoyl and attentiveness to stuff sitting there, you could go the extra mile if you're really serious about it and disassemble everything and have the frames galvanized and not have to worry about it for quite some time.
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  #6  
Old December 1st, 2011, 11:21 AM
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Bill Campbell
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Ya now if I go the galvy way do I peel the skins and have them painted the color I need, get the frame glavied and put it all back together?

Or do I put it all back together and then have it painted?
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  #7  
Old December 1st, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Jeff Payne
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I think you would disassemble everything the do galvy then reassemble then paint. The part where you fold the skin over would mess up paint.
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  #8  
Old December 1st, 2011, 11:56 AM
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Disassemble doors by stripping all hardware. Chisel heads off rivets as needed. Punch out rivets. Gently pry up skin edges all around until at least 90 degree bend outward. Remove frame. Send skins and frame to chemical stripping. Send frame to galvanize. treat skin with self etching primer both sides. reattach skins. re rivet. Paint.
As long as you paint the frames within 48 hours of galvanizing you should be OK.
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  #9  
Old December 1st, 2011, 12:08 PM
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If you're doing all this work to prevent rust would it make any sense to rino line the frames after galvanizing or is galvanization enough?
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  #10  
Old December 1st, 2011, 12:24 PM
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You might just source a set of the NTO doors that are already galvanized to save yourself the hassle and expense of stripping and galvanizing. I paid $1200 for a set of NTO galvy fronts from Safari HP.

Strip doors/skins: $your time
Chem Strip: $50ish
Galvanizing: $300ish
Reassemble: $your time
Prep for paint: $same
Paint: $$$
Add all that up plus the cost you can sell your current doors for ($600-$800 or so), and you can see you might save some time and $$ just going NTO.

Just a thought!
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  #11  
Old December 1st, 2011, 01:14 PM
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Bill Campbell
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I am guessing NTO is "new, take off"? I don't mind the cost, but seems kind of hit or miss whether they will have any around. What year did they start doing galvy on the door frames straight out of the factory?

B
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  #12  
Old December 1st, 2011, 06:10 PM
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Keep them stored under your bed.

Clear waxoyl
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  #13  
Old December 1st, 2011, 08:23 PM
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Man...you have to be REALLY careful pealing the alum skins off......I started then stopped on my series.
then found complete doors at a great price from Safari HP.
Even if you galvanize the frames, I really think you should isolate the skins from the frames with more than just paint. I'm still looking for ideas on the old ones.
Mr Wolf has a very good point if the old doors are really worth that much!

Best of Luck with your project!
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  #14  
Old December 2nd, 2011, 01:01 AM
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I think it was 2007. Go with the new doors, they are stamped steel and galvanized, rather than the welded frames. Actually look and feel like a modern door. Got mine from safari as well. Very pleased.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wcampbel@nas.edu View Post
I am guessing NTO is "new, take off"? I don't mind the cost, but seems kind of hit or miss whether they will have any around. What year did they start doing galvy on the door frames straight out of the factory?

B
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