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  #1  
Old March 19th, 2007, 12:33 PM
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major problem

Front diff is clunking while turning at low speeds. Trac loc problem?
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  #2  
Old March 19th, 2007, 01:02 PM
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Giampaulo Cinquegrana
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More like CV problem (I'm just guessing).

Most common CV failure is due to lack of lubrication, check the fluid in your CVs.
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  #3  
Old March 19th, 2007, 02:55 PM
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Chris Davis
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I agree--the diff does not care if you turn or not unless you have a locker, then it might. But, to the best of my knowledge, Trac Loc's were not made for the rover.
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  #4  
Old March 19th, 2007, 08:23 PM
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I meant the factory attempt at some kind of locker that involves clutches. Regardless, The cvs are fine, the fluid is fine. After puting it on the lift, There is a rediculous amount of play in the front pinion. Can someone post me a pic of the whole assembly so I can asses the situation on paper before I take it apart saturday? Thanks in advance. Any opinions please? Maybe time for a toyota swap up front. Not what I wanted to spend money on this week, but I will not put a part on this defender that isn't an upgrade.


help please
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  #5  
Old March 19th, 2007, 09:33 PM
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I meant the factory attempt at some kind of locker that involves clutches
ah huh! Non that I am aware of..
Unless your wheelin on rock & turnn a big tire I don't think you need toys
man there is alot of play in a rover drive train yours is no exception
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  #6  
Old March 19th, 2007, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
I meant the factory attempt at some kind of locker that involves clutches
ah huh! Non that I am aware of..
Unless your wheelin on rock & turnn a big tire I don't think you need toys
man there is alot of play in a rover drive train yours is no exception
I will retort the original comment. It is a cool lever you pull for supposed extra traction from the factory. Your replies are not giving me any help or suggestions on the problem. If you want, just pull your pants down and moon me. I asked here for help under the "HELP" section.
Anyone who would like to help, I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
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  #7  
Old March 19th, 2007, 09:46 PM
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there are no clutches. the divice you are speaking of [center difflock] locks the front drive & rear drive together & should not be used on pavement or where traction is good. does that help butt head
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  #8  
Old March 19th, 2007, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
there are no clutches. the divice you are speaking of [center difflock] locks the front drive & rear drive together & should not be used on pavement or where traction is good. does that help butt head
No that does not help whatsoever as you most likely want to educate me on the current setup but not help with the problem I am having with the current setup. You most likely sir "are an asshole" and I will drive by you when you are stuck since you can't shut your trap unless you have something helpfull to say to someone who needs help. Don't get your head stuck up there too far just because you are a rover owner. You are the kind of person that puts that tag on the rest of us.

Follow-up Post:

Anyone want to be nice and help?

Thanks.
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  #9  
Old March 19th, 2007, 10:44 PM
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Unless there was an aftermarket differential added at some point, the factory lever only deals with the transfer case, and engaged or not would not produce those symptoms on its own. If it were stuck in the locked position it would be putting additional strain on the transfer case on pavement, and the issue would be noise coming from directly under that lever and it wouldn't relate to how hard you are turning. Or, more likely, if it was stuck engaged you would just blow-up the transfer case at highway speeds.... not fun, but also not what I suspect is the issue.

If you are having noises from the front end, there are a couple different possibilities, but what you describe does sound like a failed CV joint to me as well. And by CV joints, we are referring to the ones that are inside the steering knuckles at the ends of the front axle.

I would start by draining the gear oil from the steering knuckles (not the differential) but pass it through a coffee filter or something else similar to check for metal chips in the oil. That would be a sure sign of a CV failure. If one side ends up being empty, having metal chips, or just looks really off from what gear oil should be... then I would pull the wheel hub and CV joint to give it an inspection.

Here is a link that describes the process pretty well, it's not too complicated but does require the appropriate hub wrench and possibly opening up the brake lines. If it is the front diff, you'll need to do this on both sides anyways to remove the pumpkin.

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...28549&posted=1

-Hans

Follow-up Post:

Oh, and if you do take it apart, also inspect the wheel bearings for damage. even if nothing is wrong, I still suggest that while it's apart to give everything a good cleaning and repack the wheel bearings. God knows how rarely they get fresh grease on any truck.
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  #10  
Old March 19th, 2007, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Unless there was an aftermarket differential added at some point, the factory lever only deals with the transfer case, and engaged or not would not produce those symptoms on its own. If it were stuck in the locked position it would be putting additional strain on the transfer case on pavement, and the issue would be noise coming from directly under that lever and it wouldn't relate to how hard you are turning. Or, more likely, if it was stuck engaged you would just blow-up the transfer case at highway speeds.... not fun, but also not what I suspect is the issue.

If you are having noises from the front end, there are a couple different possibilities, but what you describe does sound like a failed CV joint to me as well. And by CV joints, we are referring to the ones that are inside the steering knuckles at the ends of the front axle.

I would start by draining the gear oil from the steering knuckles (not the differential) but pass it through a coffee filter or something else similar to check for metal chips in the oil. That would be a sure sign of a CV failure. If one side ends up being empty, having metal chips, or just looks really off from what gear oil should be... then I would pull the wheel hub and CV joint to give it an inspection.

Here is a link that describes the process pretty well, it's not too complicated but does require the appropriate hub wrench and possibly opening up the brake lines. If it is the front diff, you'll need to do this on both sides anyways to remove the pumpkin.

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...28549&posted=1

-Hans

Follow-up Post:

Oh, and if you do take it apart, also inspect the wheel bearings for damage. even if nothing is wrong, I still suggest that while it's apart to give everything a good cleaning and repack the wheel bearings. God knows how rarely they get fresh grease on any truck.
Isi it possible that I have screwed up the transfer case when changi g the rear seal a couple of days ago by putting the output shaft nut on too tight or something? How do I tell that it is fully engaged all the time? should I check to manually disingage it. Thanks for your post as I think I am on the right track now. I definitely is not cv joints.
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  #11  
Old March 20th, 2007, 12:18 AM
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well, the truck is always in 4wd, the question is if the center differential is locked or open. The lever should be pulled back and to the right for unlocked.

To test if it is unlocked, put on the parking brake, jack up both front tires and put the transmission in neutral. Both front tires should be able to spin the same direction, and while they are doing that the front driveshaft should be spinning as well. If you can't get the front driveshaft to turn, then you're transfer case is in the locked position.

When you say "rear seal", which one are you referring to? Engine? Transfer case?

-Hans
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  #12  
Old March 20th, 2007, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huck1974
No that does not help whatsoever as you most likely want to educate me on the current setup but not help with the problem I am having with the current setup. You most likely sir "are an asshole" and I will drive by you when you are stuck since you can't shut your trap unless you have something helpfull to say to someone who needs help. Don't get your head stuck up there too far just because you are a rover owner. Follow-up Post:

Anyone want to be nice and help?

Thanks.
It's obvious humility escapes you so go fuck yourself you prepubescent little pussy.

You are the kind of person that puts that tag on the rest of us.
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  #13  
Old March 20th, 2007, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
well, the truck is always in 4wd, the question is if the center differential is locked or open. The lever should be pulled back and to the right for unlocked.

To test if it is unlocked, put on the parking brake, jack up both front tires and put the transmission in neutral. Both front tires should be able to spin the same direction, and while they are doing that the front driveshaft should be spinning as well. If you can't get the front driveshaft to turn, then you're transfer case is in the locked position.

When you say "rear seal", which one are you referring to? Engine? Transfer case?

-Hans
transfer case rear seal behind the brake drum.
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  #14  
Old March 20th, 2007, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huck1974
No that does not help whatsoever as you most likely want to educate me on the current setup but not help with the problem I am having with the current setup. You most likely sir "are an asshole" and I will drive by you when you are stuck since you can't shut your trap unless you have something helpfull to say to someone who needs help. Don't get your head stuck up there too far just because you are a rover owner. You are the kind of person that puts that tag on the rest of us.

Follow-up Post:

Anyone want to be nice and help?

Thanks.
Hey look its another asshat. Nice to see another one in the D-90 world.
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  #15  
Old March 20th, 2007, 09:18 PM
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Oftentimes I find an indignant attitude is best when I'm trying to get help.
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  #16  
Old March 20th, 2007, 10:16 PM
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So, let's see...

We don't have a repair book, we don't know a basic function of the truck (center diff) but we want to jump into a front only Toy conversion.

Sounds good to me!
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  #17  
Old March 20th, 2007, 10:23 PM
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Hans is for rising above all the rhetoric. I don't think he's been thanked properly either; which is par for the course.

All hail Hans.
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  #18  
Old March 21st, 2007, 12:34 AM
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Hey, we all gotta learn sometime, and I know I bothered the heck out of folks when I was first diving under trucks to figure it all out. I'm just passing on what little I can to those who are walking the same path. But seriously, I would prefer to stay out of the personal differences and stick just to the technical issues if possible.

Now, back to the issue at hand....

I don't really see any possible connections to the transfer case work that was done, and the clunking noise in the front end. If it was the transfer case causing an issue, it would most likely happen all the time and not just when turning. And most likely it would be coming from the transfer case, not the front end. But to be quite honest, diagnosing things such as 'clunks', 'rattles' and 'squeaks' can be very hard to do via a message board. All I can give are suggestions what to check.

Any way you can give a better description of the clunking noise? Specifically....
-Does it clunk more when you turn left or right, or same either way?
-How far do you have to turn the wheel?
-One clunk? Many clunks? Does it clunk once every time the tire turns? A few times?
-Got a buddy that can walk next to the truck and try to pinpoint a more specific location that the noise is coming from?

Also, have you had the truck since new? Or did you recently purchase it? I ask this, because there is a very distant possibility that somebody put a detroit in the front end at some point. If that's the case, it would do that normally, and the thing will kill you if you keep it in there in a full-time 4wd truck like a Defender.

And, I don't mean to be rude asking again, and I KNOW you said a few times the CV joints are good. So, may I ask what method you used to check them? Did you physically pull the shafts and inspect the cages?

-Hans
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  #19  
Old March 21st, 2007, 07:53 PM
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To whever I have offended, I appologize. I am new to this truck and don't claim to know everything about it or what the past owner has done to the vehichle. The response I received, was only to cut me down on my knowledge of the drivetrain. It had nothing to do with the question I asked except for the poster to feel surperior about his knowledge with out taking on the question at hand. I also had a really bad day. Got sued, Car broke, etc. bla bla bla. I guess I went a little defensive a little too fast at someone who was just talking to talk...not to answer or help.


Anyways, I have pulled everything out except the dff, ring, pinion. Everything looks solid including the cv joints. I will take apart the rest tommorow. There was sludge everywhere but no blueing on anything to show evidence of a lot of heat. Doesn't look like the thing has been serviced... ever.

The car clunks from the front end several times when slowing to a stop under ten miles per hour and feels like from the front end. It seems to be a lot worse when turning right. It does this in gear or out of gear. It does not do this under acceleration. I feel like a Tire is out of balance when driving under 30 while turning right. It doesn't do it going straight. The tires are not out of balance. There is a slight vibration at highway speeds in the wheel, seat etc. Thanks in advance Hans.
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  #20  
Old March 21st, 2007, 08:13 PM
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The off camber loading stuff sounds like wheel bearings. The slowing down popping thing sounds like suspension bushings/panhard rod. I munched a front diff by forgeting I was locked @ the transfer case in 30 inches of snow years ago and then got to clean pavement and bang. Untill I replaced the front diff it occaisonally made bang noises when turning sharply. The whole thing was trashed inside. I have two spare stock differntials if you end up in a bind.

I could be wrong but I think you have a couple of different things going on.
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