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  #41  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 12:01 PM
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I believe there is another possiblity that appears to be unaddressed. Wouldn't a bent steering rod also cause the symptoms he is describing. It would have to be pretty seriously bent but it could pull the right tire in enough for it to hop with the low speed friction but allow it to slide at higher speeds. There by binding the right side CV. Right side camber could also cause this could it not?
BTW, there is no way that the bearing pre-load should have been that high.
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  #42  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
You set them up yourself didn't you?

LOL No! a built 460 4 speed & youth did them in.. never broke the 60's. shit this was a long time ago.
There is no doubt that the toy conversion is pretty bomb proof But it is a far amount of work.
Okay. If it was a stock 9in with a 460 and 40's then I can see it. Now with the Nodular 9+ cases and the massive aftermarket support, the breaks are very few and far between.
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  #43  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
Okay. If it was a stock 9in with a 460 and 40's then I can see it. Now with the Nodular 9+ cases and the massive aftermarket support, the breaks are very few and far between.
Buck LOL this was 1982 4:56 & a detroit YOUTH did not help at all!
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  #44  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
Buck LOL this was 1982 4:56 & a detroit YOUTH did not help at all!
Careful, your dateing yourself! My wife was born around that time!
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  #45  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
Careful, your dateing yourself! My wife was born around that time!
NA I AM MARRIED NOW>>
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  #46  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 07:45 PM
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Yes it is the factory diff. Totally clean. No particles whatsoever. All bearings look great. Wheel bearings look great. I used a case of brake clean to clean everything very well and also had a mechanic friend inspect everything for a second opinion. The sludge was containted inside the ball behind the wheel bearings but everything else was groovy. Everything really looks like new. No steering bars are bent at all. Could this be transfer case wierdness after all? I don't know, but I learned a lot about the car today. There is absolutely nothing wrong in the front end. I'm putting it back together tommorow and piece by piece, taking the drivetrain apart. Damn....wish I could find the problem.
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  #47  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 07:48 PM
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try the cv thing i sad a few posts back. & you can switch sides with the cvs that way youll know
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  #48  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 07:51 PM
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I have left them attached to the shafts as now. I can't get any play in any direction including in and out or turning.
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  #49  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 08:05 PM
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Here is another thought, and I wish it occured to me earlier.

Are you getting rubbing from the tread of the tires onto the suspension arm? Going to the 35's, and if you didn't alter the steering stops, the tire might be rubbing at full turn. Look at the corner of the tire tread, and also on the trailing arm, to see if there was any rubbing between them. Should be easy to see.

-Hans
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  #50  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Here is another thought, and I wish it occured to me earlier.

Are you getting rubbing from the tread of the tires onto the suspension arm? Going to the 35's, and if you didn't alter the steering stops, the tire might be rubbing at full turn. Look at the corner of the tire tread, and also on the trailing arm, to see if there was any rubbing between them. Should be easy to see.

-Hans
I just installed the tires the day after this started.
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  #51  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 08:37 PM
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turn the cv all the way & then rotate like its being driven binding is what you are looking for. if you are inclined rt axles longtracks are a real deal & the strongest rover stuff you can get. Perhaps throw those in & in the future you want toy stuff people will buy them. or slap it together & see if you still have the prob. cvs & axles are fast to R&R. I know I have said it but change sides with them & you will know fo sho. sorry to repeat but I am old

Hans thats a good thought
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  #52  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
turn the cv all the way & then rotate like its being driven binding is what you are looking for. if you are inclined rt axles longtracks are a real deal & the strongest rover stuff you can get. Perhaps throw those in & in the future you want toy stuff people will buy them. or slap it together & see if you still have the prob. cvs & axles are fast to R&R. I know I have said it but change sides with them & you will know fo sho. sorry to repeat but I am old

Hans thats a good thought
Have done the test like you said with them totally clean and fully bound while turning them. They both feel and look like brand new. can pull in and out on them also with no play. Everything looks perfect. I'm truly puzzled. I have dealt with other kinds of cv joints and I truly feel that these are good. Could the noise being stronger turning right be coincidental and this is a transfer problem that could sound like it is coming from the front? I know I'm reaching, but I putting the front back together with confidence.

Follow-up Post:

by the way, thanks for your replies
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  #53  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 11:27 PM
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Put the truck back together. put the whole thing up on jack stands start it up, throw it in gear, crank the wheel, get under it and listen for your culprit. I would do that before taking the drivetrain apart. Or even as you have the car now, take off the driveshafts and put in gear and see what happens. At least then you will be able to rule out drivetrain issues. How are the bushings on your shocks? All the suspension bolts tight?
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  #54  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 09:42 AM
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Shane have you check the Pan Hard Rod . Some times the bolt will get loose and creates a slot. Then the bolt may slide and clunk. Make sure it is TIGHT.

Also have you checked your brakes,calipers, pad and disks.

Sometimes if the calipers are bound up the can make some strange noises.

FYI My rear Detroit locker would make a loud clunk when I was going around a corner. I didnt have a front.
Good Luck
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  #55  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huck1974
The hub nut was rediculously tight.
This may have been an issue as well. That nut isn't supposed to be like that, in fact it's supposed to be very very slightly loose, and give the wheel hub a touch of endplay. The second nut and lockplate is what is supposed to hold it in place, not being tightened down. If the nut was cranked down too heavily, it might have burnt that bearing out.

-Hans
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  #56  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 04:54 PM
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Not sure on the Defenders but a general rule of thumb is to tighten the wheel bearing to 17 foot pounds and then back if off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. The hub should be slightly stiff but rotate smoothly. I will put money on it not being in the transfer case, as Hans and others have said. Honestly, if it was mine, I would switch sides with the CVs. You have them out anyway and that would rule them out for sure.
Just a suggestion. Lord knows I understand how frustrating it is but the people on this board have ALOT of experience. You can count on them to help as much as possible. Hang in there. If you have questions, holler.
-Scott
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  #57  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 05:18 PM
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The official Defender version is to bolt on a dial indicator and measure the actual endplay. But the torque then back-off method will result in the same thing. I don't know many folks who actually have dial indicators and the bracketry to measure this stuff. But either way, if the hub nut was that tight, that bearing is most likely fried.

-Hans
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  #58  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 05:41 PM
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This guy does seem to have a poor attitude. But I'll chime in for anyone else that is reading the thread to help them if their truck is doing the same.

Lets not forget slop in the drivetrain is often the mainshaft of the transmission to the input gear of the transfer case.

Maybe someone else would like to explain to rooster boy how to check this out.

JP
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  #59  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 05:51 PM
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i didn't read all of the above drivel... but back off the parking brake adjuster and see if the "chunking noise" goes away... probably a bad inner sheath on the parking brake cable not totally realeasing the brake and lashing the drivetrain while coming to a stop... easy check is to see it the parking brake lever doesn't want to stay all the way down when released...kind of keeps popping back up a little = bad inner sheath... replace cable.

mine is doing it again as i type this...
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  #60  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyman
i didn't read all of the above drivel... but back off the parking brake adjuster and see if the "chunking noise" goes away... probably a bad inner sheath on the parking brake cable not totally realeasing the brake and lashing the drivetrain while coming to a stop... easy check is to see it the parking brake lever doesn't want to stay all the way down when released...kind of keeps popping back up a little = bad inner sheath... replace cable.

mine is doing it again as i type this...
good thought. I will check that in the morning. To update, I got everything back together. Absolutely nothing is wrong with anything in the front end. I used a case of brake clean and inspected everything. The noise being more evident when turning to one side seems to be the figment of my imagination now. The noise is still there and only on decelleration as it was before. The noise is gone when in low range.

Part 2-
Lift problems,
Front driveshaft will hit sway bar when fully extended. Did you guys just simply add spacers?

Everyone said that two inches was enough lift for 35s, but the rear tire rubs the fender flairs at certain angles. Did you guys purchase aftermarket flairs or am I missing something?
Thanks again for your input.
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