LWb floor pan preservation - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 17th, 2015, 09:11 AM
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LWb floor pan preservation

Ok not defender tech but many here have lwb's as their daily's.
I have a 94 lwb in amazing condition and the sunroof has leaked and the insulation is damp and there is some light scale on the floors. Aside from the obvious new sunroof seal, what have others done to preserve and protect the floors ? POR 15 ? LineX ?
Thinking the thing to do is pull the seats and carpet and insulation as well as sill covers and seal it up properly.
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  #2  
Old April 17th, 2015, 09:16 AM
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Doug, I need to get down your way so I can check out my future project (when you're ready to let her go )

I doubt that the sunroof seal is bad(but it could be)- probably just the drain is clogged.
There are 4 drains 2 in the front, 2 in the back rear fenders.
In my experience, the back ones are usually the bad ones.


Also, in my green LWB, I had some very light scale rust under the soundproofing in the front floor pans.
It was very minimal; I never could find a source of water.
I cleaned/wire brush scraped it- then did POR Clear.
But you have to do the pre-treatment steps to the letter---the clear/or paint is just the final step.


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  #3  
Old April 17th, 2015, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Doug, I need to get down your way so I can check out my future project (when you're ready to let her go )

I doubt that the sunroof seal is bad(but it could be)- probably just the drain is clogged.
There are 4 drains 2 in the front, 2 in the back rear fenders.
In my experience, the back ones are usually the bad ones.


.
I was going to pick your brain on this by text but the sunroof doesn't park. IE you have to get out and bump the switch until it's @ the right spot other wise it just goes through the full range of motion in ea direction. Whats up with that ?
Seal looks a bit loose but I'm sure it is the drains as well
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  #4  
Old April 17th, 2015, 09:31 AM
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My Hunter gets wet feet as well. When I drive it in heavy rain water drips down from the headliner onto the shifter/console area. AFAIK my windshield is original, I have not figured out where the rain is coming in. Sunroof is the least of the worries, insulation is the devil.
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  #5  
Old April 17th, 2015, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I was going to pick your brain on this by text but the sunroof doesn't park. IE you have to get out and bump the switch until it's @ the right spot other wise it just goes through the full range of motion in ea direction. Whats up with that ?
Seal looks a bit loose but I'm sure it is the drains as well
Yeah, that is weird.
Compared to Disco 1's and D2's; RRC sunroofs are bulletproof!
That is probably the source of the leak though, just wasn't closed quite right and if the drain is a clogged or slow...well then.

How is the exhaust system? I may have some leftover components from mine.


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  #6  
Old April 17th, 2015, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I was going to pick your brain on this by text but the sunroof doesn't park. IE you have to get out and bump the switch until it's @ the right spot other wise it just goes through the full range of motion in ea direction. Whats up with that ?
Try greasing the rails. I had similar issues on my RRC and E350. Then, after spraying some Boeshield T9, both worked perfectly.
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  #7  
Old April 17th, 2015, 09:52 AM
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Try greasing the rails. I had similar issues on my RRC and E350. Then, after spraying some Boeshield T9, both worked perfectly.
Peter, did you use a white lithium grease or something special?


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  #8  
Old April 17th, 2015, 11:28 AM
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Not parking means a bad microswitch.
It's not likely that the sunroof drain is the cause of the footwell rot.
The drains can be cleared with a blast of compressed air and that is all I would do.
The footwell rot comes from the construction of the body shell. Under the mat there is a lap joint that is spot welded.. At the factory they smear seam sealer on it and that's that.
The sealer fails pretty quikly and then water gets in as the front tires are throwing water right at that spot. The only way to remediate is to wedge up the mats, wire wheel as best you can and then POR-15. Unless you are willing to pull the thing half apart to weld in new metal, that's all you can hope for.
These mats hold water like a sponge so every few weeks you need to lift them up to dry out. That means pulling the door sills and lifting up the carpet and the mat.
The only way to remove the front mat is to basically gut the entire front of the vehicle; even the wiring harness has to be removed! Most of us end up slicing thru the mat at the edge of the hump and take out the section, but even that is only possible with the center console, dash and hvac out.
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  #9  
Old April 17th, 2015, 12:22 PM
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As Bill said, the sunroof drain may not even be the source of moisture.

When I removed my soundproofing I found several open holes (lost blanking plugs) up on the firewall.
Anytime a front door is open during the rain, the front gutter drips right into the floor area and the water sits forever.
I sorta did as Bill said, cut the soundproof sponge out as close to the edge of the hump as I could get.

Bill, where is this microswitch?

.
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  #10  
Old April 17th, 2015, 01:17 PM
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Mine was too far gone to save other than with a massive patch. There are the interior leaks (all sorts of crap in the firewall, the seal to the bonnet, sunroof, windscreen), and then there are the exterior issues (seam that bill mentions and the bracket for the mud flap) and then there is crap in the sill.

What I did was pull up the carpet and cut the padding and remove it about 6in up on the tunnel. Frankly the padding is stupid as it is open cell foam. I would clean up what you can, seam seal everything, coat with POR 15 (linex seems like a bad idea as it can trap water) and then seam seal the mud flap bracket and undercoat the footwell on the outside and then replace the mudflaps. Then I would spray waxoyl into the sills. I would find some thick rubber to replace the factory foam under the carpets (maybe 87-88 RRC original under mats with the foam removed). Then I would park it in my garage and never drive it in rain or snow or salt.
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  #11  
Old April 17th, 2015, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Then I would park it in my garage and never drive it in rain or snow or salt.
Unfortunately, that's pretty much what I do.
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  #12  
Old April 17th, 2015, 04:32 PM
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I'm amazed at how well Por15 works for this type of application. Follow directions, you're easy for a job like this.

I once stripped a Safarigard bumper for a DI to bare metal. Used Por15 right over the new metal. I did two coats as instructed. Then, just as the third coat was getting tacky to the touch, I used some semi-gloss rattle can black over the top. The combination of the Por15 for strength, and the tackiness of it, made the paint cover very, very well. Nice, even and easy on the eyes. I owned the truck for another 6 months after that. It never looked like it ever got so much as a scratch on the bumper.

Three years later, I saw the truck again, the bumper looked as good as the day I sold it.
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  #13  
Old April 17th, 2015, 05:52 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. This truck is like it came out of a 1994 time capsule. The seats are great, the headliner is perfect, aside from the window switch piece and the shifter surround (ie the two parts that catch a lot of sun) the wood is all excellent. Aside from the surface rust under the floor foam I cant find any rust anywhere. The truck sold new @ Land Rover Richmond and was owned by a lady who pulled a two horse trailer with it in Powatan, Va. I bought it from the second owner who thought that the noise emanating from the right side of the truck when warmed up was a rod knock. I knew it to be a cat rattle and made him what I thought was a stupid low offer which he accepted.

Jeff, I'm looking for a y pipe but otherwise the exhaust seems to be in good knick, got one ?

Randy Williams had a set of bilsteins for a lwb so those are going on. Only two modifications from stock, coils, and the original head unit is gone. The truck had the ads amp and sub system and whomever installed the head unit has it all working together still.

Truck is Brooklands Green which is just ever so slightly lighter than BRG (british racing green).
Here's a web shot of a classic in Brooklands
https://www.google.com/search?q=broo...-s%3B378%3B283
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  #14  
Old April 17th, 2015, 06:10 PM
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Brooklands was a '94 only color. It either came with Lightstone or Sorrel interior.
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  #15  
Old April 17th, 2015, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Brooklands was a '94 only color. It either came with Lightstone or Sorrel interior.
Lightstone

We are going to throw a FARM USE tag on it and drive it to dinner tonight.

Life as a farmer in Central Virginia.

Thanks again for sending me the craigslist ad Bill. Feather in your cap for saving another one.
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  #16  
Old April 22nd, 2015, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post

Jeff, I'm looking for a y pipe but otherwise the exhaust seems to be in good knick, got one ?
PM sent\

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