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  #41  
Old October 27th, 2010, 09:31 AM
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John B.
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You can get wireless relays for around $15. No need to spend $80.

http://www.logisyscomputer.com/depar...asp?DID=REMOTE RM02 (single channel) is around $15. RM022a (two channel is around $25).
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  #42  
Old October 27th, 2010, 10:31 AM
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Keith Kreutzer
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See, there you go.. Even better..
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Big, Red and ... aaa Red..
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  #43  
Old October 29th, 2010, 03:23 PM
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John
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I'm going through this as we speak.

I've got the 2.8 and agree it does not warm too well or too quickly.......I've also noted drop in heater output at idle likely from water pump slowing down.

I wanted to use the Espar primarily to assist the heater, ie bring up to higher temps more quickly. I don't know but I think it may also help at idle as the Espar has a pump that is circulating although doubtful as good as the water pump.

FIRST thing to note is to NOT block the output from the block (tip from Pendy) as this could lead to problems with the last head. Also, I had to account for the return from the oil cooler.

What I have is the following:

1. Espar output is "T" connected to output from block and to heater core
2. There is a solenoid controlled valve with a "H" connection to the return line coming from the heater core and going back to the water pump
3. The solenoid valve is controlling the line from the block to the heater core but before the Espar "T" connection
4. The return line to the Espar is "T" connected to the return line from the core and to the water pump
5. There is also a "T" connection at the Espar return line to the return line from the oil cooler

When the valve is OFF the Espar essentially is only heating and pumping for a circuit to the heater core but is also "open" to the return to the water pump, ie good for expansion. The hot water coming from the block is immediately returned to the return line to the water pump (good for summer as the vent should be cooler).

I'm hoping the Espar may do a better job with the heater core especially in stop and go traffic.

When the valve is ON the system should run like normal. The Espar can heat the block AND the heater core. This is also good once operating temps are up and you are at highway speeds when Espar can be turned off. Although I don't know if the hot coolant will be preferentially split off from the heater core and returned or if it will "split" between the water return AND the heater core.

Does anyone understand fluid/pressure dynamics???
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  #44  
Old October 29th, 2010, 03:31 PM
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John B.
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Wow, why does everyone want to overcomplicate these things...

Put it in the heater supply line. That is all that is needed. It will not restrict the coolant flow when off. It will improve the coolant flow when running. You will have a nice hot engine and heater in the middle of rush hour.

It works great this way. I've been running for years in down to -40 weather. Lots of other people around here have the same setup.
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  #45  
Old October 29th, 2010, 03:58 PM
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John
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John.......you may be right.

For me the issue is not so much "cold starting" as I doubt it would get cold enough to make a difference especially with glowplugs in place.

There is also no issue for long runs, ie highway over longer periods of time. If anything TOO MUCH heat.

The issue is the "stop and go" traffic. Even when the Espar "pre-heats" the engine it just is not hot enough especially at idle to put out much heat.......I've seen many complaints from others on this board to that effect.

With the Espar in series a lot of the heat and pump volume is essentially "wasted" on the block where starting is not the issue.

In this situation it's likely better to have an "Airtronic" but what's the fun in that......LOL
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  #46  
Old October 29th, 2010, 06:34 PM
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John B.
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Just get an airtronic if all you care about is interior heat. They will work MUCH better for that use.

The coolant heaters do help on interior heat for sure, but the Defender heaters do not work very good until full engine temperature is reached. The coolant heaters shut down long before that time.
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  #47  
Old October 29th, 2010, 10:09 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I've got my espar on the supply line, its just plumbed in series, nothing special. I never run it while the motor is running, since I find that if the motor gets up to temperature it does fine.

My plan is to get an airtronic for the Puma as we get towards winter 11. I want the kids to be nice and toasty.
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  #48  
Old October 31st, 2010, 10:01 AM
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kevin
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I have always had an engine block heater on my diesel engines and I keep the engine plugged in when temps fall below 30f . There's a lot of compression in these motors and the block heater makes starting easy and as a bonus engine temp/ heating come up faster. Unfortunately my 300 TDI does not have a block heater yet and I was planning on installing a typical freeze plug unit. However, I found an alternative that I am going to try. I'll let anyone interested know how it works.
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  #49  
Old November 3rd, 2010, 04:05 PM
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Dan
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I saw a new D5 on ebay. $ 560 current bid but it is for an 8000 BTU unit. Is this size unit worth installing in a 110 w 300 Tdi?

Thanks.
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  #50  
Old November 3rd, 2010, 08:19 PM
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George Kase
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Kevin...whats the new idea?
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  #51  
Old November 3rd, 2010, 09:03 PM
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George.........how is the heat output from your HeaterCraft set up???

I really like that idea and was planning to do that on mine when I saw you do it.
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  #52  
Old November 3rd, 2010, 09:08 PM
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kevin
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George, I'm installing this ;http://wolverineheater.com/
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  #53  
Old November 3rd, 2010, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
George, I'm installing this ;http://wolverineheater.com/
looks cool and easy, too bad i live in a (stupid) apt complex without nearby outlets.

I'd wonder how important the fuel filter heater was in comparison to the oilpan heater
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  #54  
Old November 4th, 2010, 07:20 AM
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I have never had a fuel heater and I have never had a problem, but if you are in a more severe winter climate it might be a good idea.
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  #55  
Old July 17th, 2016, 10:10 PM
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Bump. Im terribly all over the place with work on my truck or saying F it and replacing everything with an LS engine. I've never liked the air intake pre heater on my engine. Contemplated freeze plug block heater but don't want to rip the entire engine apart to get to one and prefer the benefits of these coolant heaters.

Contemplating getting one of these. Anybody have input on this newer version installed in a RHD? Still considering the thermo top c but don't know.

Eberspacher Hydronic II D5S 12v Heater - HEATSO
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  #56  
Old July 18th, 2016, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
Bump. Im terribly all over the place with work on my truck or saying F it and replacing everything with an LS engine. I've never liked the air intake pre heater on my engine. Contemplated freeze plug block heater but don't want to rip the entire engine apart to get to one and prefer the benefits of these coolant heaters.

Contemplating getting one of these. Anybody have input on this newer version installed in a RHD? Still considering the thermo top c but don't know.

Eberspacher Hydronic II D5S 12v Heater - HEATSO
I would recommend either brand. I do know that the Webasto does have a harness part number that works very well with the Defender harness. The way I had mine set up was it would pre heat the engine, then open up the switches for the dash and heat the cabin. Good luck
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  #57  
Old July 18th, 2016, 06:05 PM
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Matthew Greenspan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
I would recommend either brand. I do know that the Webasto does have a harness part number that works very well with the Defender harness. The way I had mine set up was it would pre heat the engine, then open up the switches for the dash and heat the cabin. Good luck
I dont need it to turn on cabin heat on its own. I want no delay on me getting in and starting and driving. Is wiring it fairly simple if I'm not doing anything crazy? I've looked at the coolant and fuel installation pdf pages but haven't looked at wiring parts yet.
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  #58  
Old July 18th, 2016, 06:52 PM
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thomas
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It's a 1 day job for a first timer if you have to drop the tank and add a pick up tube
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  #59  
Old July 18th, 2016, 07:48 PM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
I dont need it to turn on cabin heat on its own. I want no delay on me getting in and starting and driving. Is wiring it fairly simple if I'm not doing anything crazy? I've looked at the coolant and fuel installation pdf pages but haven't looked at wiring parts yet.
If you don't run it before you get to the car, there is no point to it. It takes a few minutes just to start. You want it on a good fifteen minutes before starting the engine.
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  #60  
Old July 18th, 2016, 07:50 PM
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For instant satisfaction he might be better off doing a plug in option like a block heater, oil pan heater, trickle charger, etc. we had those in Alaska and it made life easier at 40 below (gas)
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