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  #21  
Old January 3rd, 2009, 01:26 PM
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George Kase
1983 110 200Tdi CSW LHD
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John...mine is a hydronic coolant heater...if it's really cold outside (like 10-20 below freezing fahrenheit, or more) I, of course, have it turn on automatically in the morning before my commute so the heater works right away when I get in and leave it on all the way in to work. In more moderate conditions or short hops I would not need to turn it on. But whenever I notice that the heater is not putting out, I turn it on and it does help to keep the coolant at a more toasty temp. So, turn on whenever more coolant heat is required.
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  #22  
Old January 11th, 2009, 03:26 PM
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David Marchand
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Jim, a little hard to tell from the pics. But did you tee the inlet to the heater off the cabin heater outlet and the outlet to the engine block? Can you take a couple close ups?

Thanks!
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  #23  
Old January 11th, 2009, 03:46 PM
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John B.
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Not sure what he did, but it is supposed to be inline before the heater. It does not matter a lot as the pump moves a lots of coolant, but it helps getting heat to the heater a little bit more then putting it after.

Here is a shot of my Webasto in a LHD 200TDI.
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  #24  
Old January 11th, 2009, 04:28 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Hey Dave - I'll have to go take a couple closeups when I get home in a few days, but the espar isnt actually teed-in anywhere - its simply inline with the coolant flow from the block to the heater core. I did use a hard elbow to get a 90 degree bend I needed, but no Tees are in piping.

I can't remember how I determined the direction of coolant flow - I think its in the manual.
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  #25  
Old January 11th, 2009, 11:16 PM
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If anyone is interested in a block heater (freeze plug type) I found one that fits perfectly ! I bought it from Valu-Bilt Tractor Parts, part # 2356467. The heater is actually made by KATZ, frost plug # 11441. It's a600Watts @120VAC unit.

HTH,
Dennis
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  #26  
Old January 21st, 2009, 09:59 AM
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David Marchand
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Jim, did your hydronic setup come with an exhaust muffler? I see one in the install diagrams but my setup did not come with one.

Thanks for the tip on the washer bottle mount. I started fabricating my own but found it frustrating due to the compound curves. Found the mount for $13 at RN. Should have it tomorrow.
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  #27  
Old January 21st, 2009, 10:19 AM
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John B.
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You do not need a muffler unless you have some special low sound requirements. They are pretty quiet. Quieter than the engine running.
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  #28  
Old January 21st, 2009, 11:29 AM
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Brad Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
You do not need a muffler unless you have some special low sound requirements. They are pretty quiet. Quieter than the engine running.
not quieter than the engine running by much (if at all) dang thing sounds like a jet warming up I can't tell you how many phone calls I get in my office as people are leaving work and walk by my truck "hey... your truck is making funny noises" and it totally freaked out the valet when I took the wife out... all this and I HAVE a muffler on mine.

Having said all this though... I LOVE that thing!!!
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  #29  
Old January 21st, 2009, 11:49 AM
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George Kase
1983 110 200Tdi CSW LHD
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Yes...its supposed to have a muffler and a small diameter long bendable metal exhaust tube in the kit...so you can lead the hydronic's exhaust out from under the truck. Brad is right...it sounds like a jet starting up and I think the muffler (since it comes with it anyway) should be installed. That Hydronic is the only reason I can stay warm in my truck (well...my new drop curtain helps too!)
George
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  #30  
Old January 21st, 2009, 11:52 AM
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Jim Cheney
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I'm not running a muffler, and the kit didn't come with one. I did see it in the diagrams and thought it was pretty neat though.

The washer bottle space from the 95 was too perfect not to use and the bottle holder was just right. Only issue was doing the hose routing and trying to do it without too many unions and clamps. I think I have the part number of the hoses I used if you want to try them - one was pretty close to perfect as far as a pre-molded hose goes.
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  #31  
Old January 21st, 2009, 01:30 PM
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David Marchand
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Thanks, i would certainly like to get the PN for the hoses. I had to move a few things around to free up the same location but I will be putting it there in front of the heater. Should be able to finish it this weekend and will post pics.
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  #32  
Old February 1st, 2009, 07:47 PM
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David Marchand
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Many thanks to Jim for the hose PN's and info. Installed mine and ran it several times. Though it is shutting down with a fault of F14, overheating. I took the opportunity to drain all of the coolant in the truck so I have a feeling I need some road miles to bleed the air out of the cooling system. So after I fix my locker line, I'll get it on the road and report back.
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  #33  
Old October 25th, 2010, 05:03 PM
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Reviving old thread.

Have Espar I want to install. From what I can see they have been installed in "series" on the block output side.

What about installing in "parallel", ie between the block output and the core output. In other words, "T" it in both hoses?

What would happen?

Wouldn't it just draw in from both outputs and then pump through both the core and the block??

Reason I ask, I would like to put in a valve on the block output side to shut it off so the Espar ONLY runs through the core. That way it is open on the core output side going back to the water pump, ie open for expansion to the expansion tank.

The diesel doesn't do a great job with the heat output of the core particularly at idle.

Thoughts?
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  #34  
Old October 25th, 2010, 08:14 PM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DD90 View Post
The diesel doesn't do a great job with the heat output of the core particularly at idle.

Thoughts?
That is why it needs to go in series... The pump on the espar moves the fluid at a high rate.
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  #35  
Old October 25th, 2010, 08:22 PM
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Why would the pump rate affect series versus parallel?

Not trying to be argumentative just trying to understand .

It should pull and push WITH the water pump in a similar way. I understand in series it will push more through quickly versus parallel but if I valve off the block it would be the "best", ie most fluid fastest, wouldn't it??

It essentially turns it into an isolated circuit for the core in series with just the core.

If I go in series with block AND core I can never isolate the core.

I think this system gives the most flexibility.
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  #36  
Old October 25th, 2010, 08:55 PM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DD90 View Post
Reason I ask, I would like to put in a valve on the block output side to shut it off so the Espar ONLY runs through the core. That way it is open on the core output side going back to the water pump, ie open for expansion to the expansion tank.
It would overheat the espar and shut it down in seconds. These put out a LOT of heat, a lot more than the heater core can get rid of.
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  #37  
Old October 25th, 2010, 10:07 PM
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It would overheat the espar and shut it down in seconds. These put out a LOT of heat, a lot more than the heater core can get rid of.


That can't be good.

Another question. Can the temperature "limit" be turned up?? I think it cuts out at 165 or 170 right now. Can it be turned up higher?
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  #38  
Old October 26th, 2010, 02:07 PM
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John B.
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Not that I know of. They should cut out lower than that. At least my Webasto starts lowering power at around 140 and would be off by 160.

You are best to install it as per the car installation manual and not try and re-invent the wheel...... Espar knows what they are doing.

These are meant as an engine heater and only help as an interior heater. If you want an interior heater, get one of those...
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  #39  
Old October 26th, 2010, 06:06 PM
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thomas
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I have a Webasto in Thermo Top in my truck with a remote switch (I can turn it on when I get up from inside my house and when I am ready for work its all nice and warm...)

I use it to heat the insode of truck and the engine. In the dead of winter I cannot wear a coat in the truck when it is running, it is just too hot. The espar should put out the same heat. If the wiring is the same as the Webasto you can heat the block up faster turning your blower off and the blower wont take the heat of the heater core....
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  #40  
Old October 27th, 2010, 10:24 AM
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Keith Kreutzer
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Bulldog security has the RA 10 "remote anything" kit for $80 or you can find a cheap remote start system with a couple of maintained outputs to run the fan and the Webasto. I will be installing the RA 10 with mine it does lots of things.
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