LT230: What's better? Proper end-float or preload torque? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 28th, 2015, 11:15 PM
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Eric Wages
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LT230: What's better? Proper end-float or preload torque?

So in my epic quest to rebuild my LT230 that came with my new-to-me 110, I've encountered a bunch of ups and downs. I've hit a new one that brings a question:

Is it better to have proper end-float on gearshaft splines per the manual, or have proper gear resistance?

Here's an example situation:

After installing and shimming the input gear to have the proper float per the rebuild manual (0.05mm), I have a really low resistance measured at 0.12kg. The unoffical repair manual mentions no specific float measurement, but says that the resistance should be between 1.4 and 3.6kg.

It's important to note that I'm using brand new bearings and can shim the back side of the bearing as needed.

Thoughts?
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  #2  
Old June 29th, 2015, 01:05 AM
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edit: i reread your post.
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  #3  
Old June 29th, 2015, 01:08 AM
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Robert Dassler
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There should be no end float on any of the shafts in an LT230. All the tapered bearings should have some preload.
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  #4  
Old June 29th, 2015, 01:22 AM
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Eric Wages
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Using the official LR PDF from Ashcroft's site, but also have an unofficial repair manual that I got from Amazon.
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  #5  
Old June 29th, 2015, 07:47 AM
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Rob Dassler is the foremost authority on rebuilding defender gear boxes in the US. I'd take the mans advice.
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Old June 29th, 2015, 06:22 PM
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Eric Wages
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So Rob, can you confirm the pull-test values for the diff gear assembly, the input shaft, and the intermediate gears once assembled?
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  #7  
Old July 2nd, 2015, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOneTen View Post
So in my epic quest to rebuild my LT230 that came with my new-to-me 110, I've encountered a bunch of ups and downs. I've hit a new one that brings a question:

Is it better to have proper end-float on gearshaft splines per the manual, or have proper gear resistance?

Here's an example situation:

After installing and shimming the input gear to have the proper float per the rebuild manual (0.05mm), I have a really low resistance measured at 0.12kg. The unoffical repair manual mentions no specific float measurement, but says that the resistance should be between 1.4 and 3.6kg.

It's important to note that I'm using brand new bearings and can shim the back side of the bearing as needed.

Thoughts?
Just doing this ATM I used the 0.05mm pre-load figure for the input shaft (3rd edition L/R t/case manual) and 10lbs on the diff bearings (Maxi-Drive instructions for the 30% low range gears) with new bearings.
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Old July 2nd, 2015, 12:09 PM
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inquiring minds want to know...does the manual say float or preload?
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  #9  
Old July 2nd, 2015, 03:55 PM
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You set it by measuring float but the bearing does have preload. You are supposed to measure end float then add a shim that is float + x (where x =.xxx" over). All covered in the book if you want to read. Anybody can download from ashcrofts site too...
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  #10  
Old July 2nd, 2015, 04:10 PM
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Problem is.... 2 thou of end float in an unmeasurable thing, IMO.
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  #11  
Old July 2nd, 2015, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Problem is.... 2 thou of end float in an unmeasurable thing, IMO.
I just did it as per the book John, t/case vertical, input shaft resting in front cone, rear cover bolted down to 18lb/ft and measure the end float with a dial indicator by lifting the shaft. It was repeatable.
Add shim/s to get the 0.05mm pre-load.
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  #12  
Old July 2nd, 2015, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
inquiring minds want to know...does the manual say float or preload?

Measure end float and calculate pre-load, 0.05mm.

The late t/case manuals also stipulate this way to set up the centre diff bearings, but I used the earlier string and spring balance method.
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