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  #1  
Old July 20th, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
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LT230 Seals

Searched here and on dweb for a bit. The latest issue on the 90 is the lt230 leaking like a mofo. Every time I move where it was parked there is a decent sized puddle about a half dollar sized and underneath it looks like a bigger mess than it did last year. I filled it up 2 weeks ago as it was pretty low.

I am thinking of doing the following

Front Bearing and Seal
http://www.discoweb.org/tcasebearing/index.htm

Rear Bearing and Seal
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=29370

And getting an "O" for the Speedo Housing area.

Question: For the plate that you can view the gears is there a seal or gasket for it or should I just use some Right-Stuff? Also, are there any other areas I have room to replace the seal or gasket? I know the proper way would be to get a lt230 from RoverGuy and swap but I want to postphone that until I do the Transmission as some point. Bascially I just want to seal it best I can, for now in place on the truck. The lt230 doesn't seem bad but I don't want it to run low on gear oil and start cooking things. TIA
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  #2  
Old July 20th, 2011, 04:42 PM
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Matthew
1983 110 200tdi 3 door soft top
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I just ordered a complete gasket set, it came with all the orings and seals and every paper gasket. It was cheaper than just ordering the seals themselves.

I used the paper gaskets but i coated them in Hondabond HT, it is hands down the best semidrying liquid gasket. Wayy better then RTV and has a much higher temp rating.

If you cant find that you can use curil or hylomar racing blue



You can do the top gaskets when the shift housing is with the center console removed and the shift lever disconnected while the Tcase is still in the truck. Keep in mind that the shift shaft for both the hi/lo and the diff lock have seperate O rings that can all be replaced
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  #3  
Old July 20th, 2011, 04:42 PM
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right stuff for the "plate" (aka PTO cover), but you should not need to remove that. There is a gasket, but I prefer the right stuff.

Honestly, figure out where it is leaking and check that bearing as usually they wear causing issues, especially if you have a lift.

Also, remove the breather hose and make sure it is clear of debris.
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  #4  
Old July 20th, 2011, 04:45 PM
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Matthew
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Also make sure you recess the seal properly when replacing the output shaft seals or they will rub on the retaining rig of the flanges and leak
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  #5  
Old July 20th, 2011, 09:53 PM
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Michael White
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I just finished putting mine back up (literally a couple of hours ago) after a leak-fest: front output seal, rear output seal, input seal, and intermediate shaft o-rings. While apart, I pulled the oil seal collar, seal, and o-ring from the transmission output because it was leaking too. Good thing I did - my rover must have set quite a while because there was corrosion on one side of the collar. I did the bottom cover using grey RTV + paper gasket. Additionally, I RTV'd the rear output flange on the inside where the washer meets the output flange - I was seeing some seepage there, too.

Haven't got the linkage or driveshafts connected yet - hopefully it's mostly sealed (not expecting miracles).
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  #6  
Old July 21st, 2011, 10:19 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Thanks for the info everyone. evilfij - I am not sure where it is leaking but there is a lot on the bolts for the PTO cover. I noticed a piece of sealant hanging off of the cover last week when I filled it back up so I was guessing some was was coming out of there. I'll take a pic and see if sheds some light.

Napalm - thanks for the top seal tip. I need to remove my stereo for a grounding issue so might be a good time to do that when the console is out and that cover is easy to pop. For the $27 the kit sells for at Rovah Farm it will be an easy move just to get one.

Like I said, I will replace the R380 at some point and then will get the whole thing dialed. Just want to slow down the leakage for the time being. Thanks!
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  #7  
Old July 21st, 2011, 11:14 AM
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One thing that really helps if you have a leaker that runs low, is to fill with one bottle of lucas oil stabailizer with the 90wt.

Ron
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  #8  
Old July 21st, 2011, 11:34 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
One thing that really helps if you have a leaker that runs low, is to fill with one bottle of lucas oil stabailizer with the 90wt.

Ron

Cool, thanks Ron - will pick a bottle of that when I get the new 90wt for refill.
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