LT230 output bearing replacement - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 21st, 2016, 12:43 PM
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Andrew
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LT230 output bearing replacement

I am trying to locate a slide hammer with a 30mm adapter so I can thread it on to shaft and pull the shaft and bearing. Looked online forever, anyone know a company which supplies a threaded adapter in the US, found a few in England.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old April 21st, 2016, 12:53 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Are you doing the front or rear output bearing? Rear you can take the whole housing off and swap on the bench which is much easier.
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Old April 21st, 2016, 12:57 PM
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I just replaced mine in my driveway without any special tools. Once I got the snapring out, I just reinstalled the drive flange and lightly pryed against the case with a couple large flathead screw drivers. The whole shaft and bearing slid right out. I have changed a couple on older discos that just pulled out by hand.

If it is difficult enough to need the slide hammer and you are willing to drain your transfer case, you can remove the entire output housing and knock the shaft/bearing out from the back side.
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Old April 21st, 2016, 01:05 PM
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Just put the flange back on temporarily after removing the snap ring and use a regular slide hammer on there...
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  #5  
Old April 21st, 2016, 01:17 PM
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Thanks for the quick replies guys,

I was going to do both, but reading from some people they are saying that if those bearings are gone then probably the whole case may be worth rebuilding...? any opinions on this, is it worth getting a rebuilt T-case then from ashcroft
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Old April 23rd, 2016, 09:06 PM
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I'm in this same boat, so I'll be following your progress.
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  #7  
Old April 24th, 2016, 03:10 AM
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The front is easy to get out. They tend to be the first to go. Unless you have run very low on oil for a long time the rest of the case is probably fine.
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Old April 24th, 2016, 11:46 AM
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What is the life expectancy of the output bearings, I have 175,000 miles on mine ?
Low oil has never been an issue.
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  #9  
Old April 24th, 2016, 12:04 PM
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Infinity. Low oil is what kills them or vibe issues from lift/unbalance shafts, bad u joints.
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  #10  
Old April 25th, 2016, 10:37 AM
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I decided to get the parts and just throw in the new bearings instead of doing the whole transfer case. I am moving out to Utah in 2 weeks for work and don't think I can get one in from ashcroft in time.

I'll be doing the work next week and I'll post an update.
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  #11  
Old April 25th, 2016, 10:57 AM
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Used ones at recycling centers are the way to go
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I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #12  
Old April 25th, 2016, 01:27 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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If you find copper chips inside the housing ...



... they are sourced inside the diff housing: the dished washers went gone bye bye!



Depending how long they are missed at their origine places the housing might be washed out too much!



Or the central shaft nut got lose or broken.



This causes a damaged outer diameter!



It makes sense to think about a new diff then.
Ashcroft has the right answer: Ashcroft Transmissions
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  #13  
Old April 25th, 2016, 03:25 PM
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I hope its not that!
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  #14  
Old April 25th, 2016, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USLandy View Post
I am trying to locate a slide hammer with a 30mm adapter so I can thread it on to shaft and pull the shaft and bearing. Looked online forever, anyone know a company which supplies a threaded adapter in the US, found a few in England.
I use the original M20 locknut, cut the nylock out and weld it to a matching thread for the slide hammer.





You need 2 times a 6207 bearing.
Early versions have the 6207-C3 inside. That means that there is a greater play than regular.
You don't need this version!

On the other hand, are you sure the bearings are worn?
What about the drive shaft joints? And the connecting nuts and bolts?
Sometimes the rear central M20 nut is not tight. Have a look for a drop of oil at the handbrake drum/brakeplate.
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