Lt230 Intermediate Shaft 0-ring - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 01:41 PM
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Henry Stinson
'73 Series III SWB '84 110 tdi
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Lt230 Intermediate Shaft 0-ring

After a recent R380 swap my 110 has developed a very bad leak that originates out of the LT230's intermediate shaft. I have read accounts of oblong casing holes, but it is my hope that the o-ring has simply dried up or was somehow disturbed when I cleaned the casing - there was no leak prior to the transmission issues.

I have read the o-ring can be replaced by removing the t-case and tapping the shaft forward to swap. Has anyone successfully stopped the leak this way? The article did not mention the o-ring at the rear of the shaft - I assume it should also be swapped? I am also concerned that the suggested method of counting retaining nut rotations for reinstall is sufficient to get pre-load correct.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. After the expense of my R380 repairs I have high hopes for a simple fix.


Thanks again,
Henry

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  #2  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 01:47 PM
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mark kellgren
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I have this exact same issue. waiting to hear options.
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  #3  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 02:09 PM
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Robert Dassler
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The original o-rings are nitrile rubber, good for about 250F. They dry out & split with time. I always replace them with Viton, good to 400F. I would take the opportunity to inspect the input and intermediate shaft bearings and replace the crush collar, stake nut, and input seat when the box is open on the bench.
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  #4  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 03:32 PM
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shayne young
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You don't need to open the box to replace the seal... However the box does need to be out of the vehicle..with the box on the bench undo the large lock nut on one end and then pull out the small bolt that holds the locking tab piece.. Push the shaft through far enough to replace the o-ring on the end and then slide it back in, seal the nut end and you're good to go..
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Robert Davis
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Shayne has the down under repair methods.
Always better and with one hand he does the work and with the other he shoots a crock between the eyes when he tries to sneak up on the Shayne!
Rule 303 applied in the field while making repairs!
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  #6  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 04:41 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
You don't need to open the box to replace the seal... However the box does need to be out of the vehicle..with the box on the bench undo the large lock nut on one end and then pull out the small bolt that holds the locking tab piece.. Push the shaft through far enough to replace the o-ring on the end and then slide it back in, seal the nut end and you're good to go..
Here are the pix showing the context.









You may change the seals of the flanges too?









Strickly following Shayne's way.
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  #7  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 05:01 PM
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shayne young
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Very disappointed in you Arlo... You don't show replacing the input shaft seal of the transfer box and the output seal of the transmission ( the back to back seals..) ..
But yes.... That is EXACTLY what I was saying.. Trust Arlo to have everything documented with an over abundance of pics...lol..
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 05:04 PM
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mark kellgren
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so where do we get the viton o rings?
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  #9  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 05:06 PM
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shayne young
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I buy genuine.. I can get you the part number if you like..
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  #10  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 05:08 PM
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shayne young
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How many do you want..
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  #11  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
Very disappointed in you Arlo... You don't show replacing the input shaft seal of the transfer box and the output seal of the transmission ( the back to back seals..) ..
But yes.... That is EXACTLY what I was saying.. Trust Arlo to have everything documented with an over abundance of pics...lol..
I'm sorry Shayne, you didn't discribed that!
No text, no pictures!
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  #12  
Old March 2nd, 2015, 11:31 PM
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Henry Stinson
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Wow - thank you for the quick response and photos.

Regarding the crush washer on the rear nut, is there a standard torque setting when reusing the crush washer? Or, would it be suitable to simply count rotations when i remove the nut and tighten accordingly?

Thanks again...

Henry
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  #13  
Old March 3rd, 2015, 12:48 AM
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shayne young
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FT... Freaking tight..... I don't think it sets any preload etc.. So just right..you could mark it where it is and then go slightly more..
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  #14  
Old June 11th, 2015, 12:25 PM
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Has no one ever measured the two o-rings on the intermediate shaft for standard sizing? I'd imagine the rear one is a 120 or 214 depending if they're 3/32 chord or 1/8. I have to replace mine and it'd be much easier to go to an oilfield company and pick up 2 viton o-rings for 10cents each here.

If no one has the numbers I'll update this when I get mine out.
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  #15  
Old June 11th, 2015, 12:38 PM
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John B.
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I have one at home and could measure later.
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  #16  
Old June 11th, 2015, 12:55 PM
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The rear o ring on the shaft is a different size as well correct? Stove usually change that at the same time as the front facing one (without taking the whole shaft out)?
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  #17  
Old June 11th, 2015, 01:01 PM
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John B.
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Usually change them both. I thought they were the same part number.
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  #18  
Old June 11th, 2015, 01:30 PM
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mark kellgren
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I'm interested in doing this in a few weeks and would like to source the viton o-rings. I have an LT230 OEM overhual kit with all the gaskets and o-rings, but I want viton if possible.

this is the only leak on my rover as of now.
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  #19  
Old June 11th, 2015, 01:35 PM
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The front facing O ring is FRC8292 and the rear is listed as FRC7439 in my parts book so I was assuming they were different sizes.
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  #20  
Old June 12th, 2015, 12:44 AM
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Front O-ring FRC8292 is a 122 - 2.62 mm cord, 28.24 mm ID. The groove it rides in on the front of the intermediate shaft is 28.18 mm diameter.

Rear O-ring FRC7439 is a 120 - 2.62 mm cord, 25.07 mm ID. The hole it sits in which has an inaccessable groove is 24.97 mm diameter which obviously should match the ID of the o ring.

You'll see 1 of my photos where the person who originally put this together didn't pay enough attention to sliding the intermediate shaft in and they snipped a chunk of the o-ring off which was still sitting on the flat of the shaft. Surprisingly this wasn't the side that was leaking.

As for taking the rear o ring out I took a bobby pin and snipped off the epoxied ends so they were "sharp", cut it in half and on one end bent a 2-3mm long hook, with the straight half of the bobby pin I was able to push it in the groove and lift up the o ring then use the other hooked half of the bobby pin and pull it out.

Off to spend $0.20 on a pair of Viton o-rings.

Enjoy the photos of calipers - in God we trust, all others must provide raw data. Apologies for the out of round front seal photo, when I measured it holding it round it was 28.24 mm, close enough for the government.

Cheers.
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