LT230 Fluid Recommendations - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 26th, 2012, 02:15 PM
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LT230 Fluid Recommendations

Would Redline 75W90 Gear Oil be suitable? How many quarts needed?
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  #2  
Old August 26th, 2012, 02:22 PM
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If yours is leaking like most lt230s then get cheaper oil and keep topping it off now and again.

If yours is sealed up and never leaks go with a better quality 75-90w.

I think it take around 2.5l. Fill it till it starts to come out the full hole. Also undo the fill hole first before the drain. Sucks to drain all the oil and not be able to refill it.
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Old August 26th, 2012, 07:07 PM
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Old August 26th, 2012, 08:38 PM
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Just make sure its API GL5 and NOT GL4. 80W90 non synthetic or 75W90 Synth, but either way must be API GL5 for TC and diffs.
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Old August 27th, 2012, 10:34 PM
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  #6  
Old August 28th, 2012, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defeyago View Post
Just make sure its API GL5 and NOT GL4. 80W90 non synthetic or 75W90 Synth, but either way must be API GL5 for TC and diffs.
I'm curious about your source.

Per LR GL4 or GL5 in the LT230T/Q/SE, check out p6 in this PDF.

http://file.seekpart.com/keywordpdf/...3228267973.pdf

Edit: GL5 has a reputation for harsh wear of yellow metals, while GL4 plays nice with brass, bronze and copper. In a series transmission and transfer case, which contain yellow metals, it is GL4 not GL5 that is required. For an LT230 LR specs either.
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Old August 28th, 2012, 06:01 AM
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Yup, GL4 is fine. It's harder to find though. Rumor has it that newer GL5 formulations don't attack yellow metal like it did when it was first on the market. I've no idea to the truth of the rumor however.
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Old August 31st, 2012, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
Yup, GL4 is fine. It's harder to find though. Rumor has it that newer GL5 formulations don't attack yellow metal like it did when it was first on the market. I've no idea to the truth of the rumor however.
Most decent GL5's use a buffered sulphur EP additive which is non-reactive with most yellow metals.

I've heard of supposed corrosion with some synchro hubs, but if in doubt and a TDS/PDS is available, look for the copper corrosion numbers.

1a or 1b mean no discolouration/non-reactive.
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