LT 230 Disco ratio to Defender - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 24th, 2015, 04:40 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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LT 230 Disco ratio to Defender

Dismanteling of both of the two follows the same way:

Just pull the all inner parts out ...













... have a look at special parts ...





... and carry on



















At the end both of the ratios (Disco's is shown in front I beleave)



I thought it will make sense to put the Disco parts into the Defender case and vice versa to match the case numbers?
Nevertheless, the bearings inside the shown case (Defender) had had better days somewhere during the last centenial.

After using a dish washer parts are looking quite better.







First ring is set.



Will be set down to the formal deapth by the outer housing outset, when fitted.



Found just some seals that will fit together.





tbc.
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  #2  
Old January 25th, 2015, 04:21 PM
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Assembling

Housing showing to the backside:







Just flipped 180°



Diff mounted verticaly in a vice by using soft spanners.



Low ratio gear, ...



... followed by the hub ...



... and the shifting ring.



Streetgear with its inner busch (ratio shown is 1,4):



The shifting ring has to be moved soft by hand!



It should fell down by its own weight when turning the wheel.



Pressed on taper roller:



Nut tied with 148Nm.



Ready to secure.



Fitted into the main housing.



Inside view:



Comming next:
The diffhousing



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  #3  
Old January 25th, 2015, 04:25 PM
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Excellent.

Die Deutschen lieben für percision!
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  #4  
Old January 25th, 2015, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Excellent.

Die Deutschen lieben die Präzision!
Thanks!

But we lost the war.
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  #5  
Old January 25th, 2015, 09:56 PM
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Perfect timing! I will be doing mine next weekend. My Ashcroft order is just waiting for pickup!
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  #6  
Old January 25th, 2015, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Excellent.

Die Deutschen lieben für percision!
I just had a really bad flash back to you trying to speak german in the rest in Ashville during Expo.
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  #7  
Old January 25th, 2015, 10:36 PM
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Dieses Land Rover ist mit vier Zylindern Diesel ja!

You heard that about 25 times @ the Black Forest.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #8  
Old January 27th, 2015, 04:59 PM
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Adjusting the Differential

Fit the distance into the bore. I used the original one (2,65mm thick)





Place the outer ring to the bore.



In fact you will use a shop press it might look like this (the shown taper roller is an old one, never try forcing the outer ring by transmitting force through the rollers!!!):



I use a big hammer and a brass pin for this.



Nevertheless, the outer ring has to be fit all the way down to the distance.



Fit the diffhousing to the main case and fix it with 4 bolts.



Engage any gear by hand using the shifter ring, roll up a rope arround the shaft, and set a luggage scales to zero.





Measure the needed force while the shaft is turning and write it down!



Grunt or just be happy if you are inside the tolerances!

Remove the diffhousing in any case to find a thinner distance (if you are over) or a wider (if you are under the limits) or, just like me to continue installing the inner parts of the diffhousing. Would like to say tomorrow. for joining.
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  #9  
Old January 28th, 2015, 05:41 PM
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Diffhousing interior

Parts to be fitted:



Shifting ring in position.





Compress the spring and add it to the fork.
Add both of the two into the housing matching the ring inside.



Install the shifter rod.





Install the spring loaded ball as shown.





Compress the spring and fit one slotted washer.





Same procedure on the other side.



Close the reversing hole.



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  #10  
Old January 28th, 2015, 06:00 PM
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Installing the diffbox to the mainbox

Remove the diff and fit the rod and fork.



Replace all together into the main box.



Inner view:



Seal the flange of the diffbox, ...



... secure the studs ...



... and get the parts married.





Tie down the nuts!



You may spin the inner parts by using the short shaft (no bearing on this part).



Fit another spring loaded ball as shown befor.

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  #11  
Old January 29th, 2015, 06:41 PM
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Diffshifter and electrical Stuff

Parts and O-Rings



Just one of the three threads went through means only one of the studs needs to be sealed!



Have a look to the finger and the gap inside the rod when pushing down!



Try to shift the lock by using a 10mm spanner: only the rod will be moved! Moving the fork is forced by the preloaded spring!





Switch to let the difflock lamp light on.



Difflock opened:



Difflock engaged:

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  #12  
Old February 8th, 2015, 02:06 PM
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Forgot to mention about the cover.

Liquid gasket does a very good job!
The bolts don't need to be secured by glowe because the inner threads are not running through!




Something special since the Td5, I guess? This switch's signal is a needed one for the central computing unit to reduce force if engaded. It's the same one used in all R380 gear boxes. Thread is M14x1,5.



Neutral positon:



Odometerdrive

Setting die, seal and housing (f.r.t.l))



befor setting...



and after. Very little force is needed!




Blue gear for the 1,4 ratio. New O-Ring!



Disco Td5 connector.



Defender version!

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  #13  
Old February 8th, 2015, 02:18 PM
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Hi/Lo Shifter Housing

parts:



Above older version, below Td5 version.

The function is the same as in every time:
A great torque transmitted by a shaft forces a rod to change the inner position of a fork.
New part: just an O-Ring




Parts only can be fitted in one position!




Done.



I protect the breather screw by a short tube.
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  #14  
Old February 8th, 2015, 02:25 PM
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Looks great.

Kurt, regarding the "Odometerdrive", do these parts you show have a built in VSS so they just send a pulse without having to have the cable go to a VSS? I think this is what I need for my EV.
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  #15  
Old February 8th, 2015, 02:35 PM
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New method to find out the needed distanz

Since the Td5 the taper rollers have to be positioned by a speacial LR tool, I don't have.

So I used some of commen measurements:

How to do it:
The tower 103,00mm high.
Both of the two taper rollers are fitted down to the inner securing rings.



Distance between table and upper inner ring set to zero.


Tower hight --> plus 0,21mm



Both of the inner rings are 21,99 wide.

The difference between the inner rings inside is to be calculated: 58,81mm
To get the correct force when screwing just reduce it by 0,05mm!

In this case the inner distance has to be 58,75mm long!
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  #16  
Old February 8th, 2015, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
... do these parts you show have a built in VSS so they just send a pulse without having to have the cable go to a VSS? I think this is what I need for my EV.
I'm not quite sure what a VSS might be, but you' re right they send a pulse; the cable doesn't work any more when using this. On the other hand, you need an electronical odometer!
What's an EV good for?
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  #17  
Old February 8th, 2015, 09:08 PM
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Yes I'll be using a digital odometer so those would be perfect!

An EV (electric vehicle) is mostly good for driving
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  #18  
Old February 9th, 2015, 08:01 AM
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i use the cheapo disco digital vss which seems to work ok.
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  #19  
Old February 10th, 2015, 03:33 PM
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Distances for the intermediate shaft

Please call your local dealer!

Partnumber are listed from IEJ00020 to IEJ00400 stepping by the amount of 20 (20 different parts)

Starting at 58.35mm stepped by 0.05mm ending at 59.30mm.

Lower partnumbers fit shorter distances.
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  #20  
Old February 16th, 2015, 04:40 PM
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lrt-99-002

I gues I want one!





















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