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  #21  
Old February 18th, 2015, 04:56 PM
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Lrt-41-002

To pull the taper rollers this one is needed too!













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  #22  
Old February 21st, 2015, 04:46 PM
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Completed the tool today:

M22x1,5 thread for the spindle:



Positioning the holes connecting the head 150mm to the middle of the central thread:



So this is what it's designed for:



To pull a bearing off the shaft first the two of the halfs have to be positioned:



All together inside the press:



While turning the spindle ...





... the parts will come apart.



Fitting a new bearing is just the reversing way:





It's a nice to have when messing around with the LT230!
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  #23  
Old February 21st, 2015, 05:02 PM
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How to reinstall the intermediate shaft the easy way

All you need is a thin (about 1 mm) sheet of aluminum and a pin:



Position the box with its front showing downside to the workbench and fit the sheet:



Slide the intermediate shaft with the fitted inner taper roller bearings and the distance bush side ways into the box.



Adjust the parts with the pin.



Remove the sheet, the pin will fall down then.





Fit the axle.



Install the fat washer.



Add the nut.



Be happy!
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  #24  
Old February 21st, 2015, 05:56 PM
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well done!
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  #25  
Old February 21st, 2015, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
well done!
Thank you!

Add it to your manual!
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  #26  
Old February 21st, 2015, 11:22 PM
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I took my time and got it done over the course of two weekends. I didn't have to make any special tools for the bearing removal. I just used a large splitter. Set all the preloads per the LT230T manual on ashcrofts site. I can say that it drives well and no funny noises. I also replaced the lt77s with a 40k mile lt77s. When I run out of projects ill rebuild the trans and have it ready to go in the event i need it. I installed a new hd cross pin, intermediate shaft and input gear in mine. Also swapped cases due to damage from incorrect bolt lengths being used on a previous replacement.
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  #27  
Old February 22nd, 2015, 07:49 AM
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Wow great work. Love the machine work
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  #28  
Old February 24th, 2015, 06:45 PM
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Lrt-41-005

Lot of work to get the mill starting its job done:

The vice has to be parallel to the frontline



Just milling



The key is just a 4mm wide part 9,5mm high made of flat aluminum.



The mandrel LTR-41-005 ist completed



How it will work inside the fitted input shaft later on

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  #29  
Old February 28th, 2015, 02:31 PM
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The shop press does a very good job today:











The mandrel too!



















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  #30  
Old February 28th, 2015, 04:53 PM
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Btw, imho it doesn't make sense to change the inner parts to get a Disco transfer gearbox matching to the ratio of a Defender one, because the moduls of the input shafs are different and there's no gear to fit a PTO onto it!

So both of the two owners will get back different boxes with new bearings inside.
Only the odometerdrive was changed.
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  #31  
Old March 17th, 2015, 05:07 PM
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Damaged LT230

Broken outputshaft nut.



This causes spinning of the inner ring of the taper bearing.



Big grouve inside the output flange causes huge oil markings.



Missing three of the four bearings inside the diff.



The intermediat shaft if the T version doesn't fit to the output shaft of the R version!





I have to change this damaged diff with the other located at school.
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  #32  
Old March 20th, 2015, 05:34 PM
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To whom it may concern:

http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-file...aul_Manual.pdf

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  #33  
Old March 20th, 2015, 06:31 PM
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Cause this is a discussion thread, please let me know how do you think about the different way to check the preload of the inlet shaft bearings (page 75 of the pdf).

Thanks.
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  #34  
Old March 24th, 2015, 05:46 PM
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Got some Ashcroft parts today!



Ordered them Thursday evening. That's quick, because DHL doesn't work on weekends.

But the exchange rate between BPD and € is quite a little bit bizarr!
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  #35  
Old March 24th, 2015, 07:48 PM
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But still better than the dollar, and closer to ship from!
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  #36  
Old March 30th, 2015, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
But still better than the dollar, and closer to ship from!
S&H was 16 pounds plus tax.

Just figured out if the parts are matching the old way of proof:













Not at all.







Just room for one inside, Sire!
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  #37  
Old April 1st, 2015, 06:44 PM
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Shim kit ordered by Ashcroft

It works very well but it's a pita!

Please have a look:

Proseding operations













Trying to get the gap





And to get it by lifting the diff-shaft agains the clock.



Time to get the input shaft bearings changed?
Try this:









And repead the lesson above:





You may test it by an other very special tool ...



... or just enjoy!
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  #38  
Old June 3rd, 2015, 04:44 PM
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Exchanged a LT 230 to my loan one last Saturday.
It had to be done at a TD5! Rear suspension is welded to the frame.
That's not funny!

This one has had some hard contact with ground or something else at the topside of the high/low shifter housing.



Replaced it by an older type. This needed a bigger bore for the plug.



3 of the 4 shims inside the diff went gone bye bye. Spreaded all over inside the box. At least these had to be come out.



Looking like new now:





Something different to other cases:

Shifter rod is positioned at the frontside by a supplied body.



Fixing bold has a shoulder. Just screw it tight by using sealent!



Locking indicator is located at the rear of the housing.



It is set by the shifter rod.



The bore to get to the cam of the fork is plugged.
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  #39  
Old June 12th, 2015, 05:43 PM
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Got in trouble with the central diff while trying to assemble!

I ordered new cross-shafts, dished thrust washers and thrust washer with 1,45mm thickness, because these have had been inside.

After tightening the bolts with 60Nm the diff was nearly blocked!

The breake drum needs about 7kg load to rotate!
I guess I know why the dished thrust washers died early!

So I asked the manual:



And had a look for different thick thrust washers. Went to the dealer again and got just one with 1,3mm thickness.



Started all the proceedings with my thinnest thrust wascher at 1,20mm.



Closed the housing, added the front shaft ...



... fitted the flange and the drum ...



... and ended up by 150g.

So this one was too thin!

Dismantled all parts and found a thicker one:



When noting the load ...



... I thought this one just a little bit too thin.

So I tried the next thicker one that was on my workbench.



This one was too thick! Load was over 900g.

I guess a 1,35mm thrust washer will do at this side!

Same procedure at the lower end:

Fitted the 1,2mm thrust washer and got too much of load!

So I will need some new thrust washers in 1,05mm, 1,10mm, 1,15mm and 1,35mm for the next time!

Does anyone need some new in 1,45mm?
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  #40  
Old June 13th, 2015, 07:44 AM
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148nm for the main bearing retainer nut on the center diff? The rebuilt manual states 72nm on that nut?
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