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  #1  
Old June 9th, 2015, 04:37 PM
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barry f
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LR4 Door Lock Question

As of yesterday I started to have an issue with my key locking the doors. I press the lock button and horn sounds like a door is open. I press it again and the doors lock.

I've checked all the doors and there doesn't seem to be an issue.

Any ideas?


Thanks
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  #2  
Old June 9th, 2015, 05:28 PM
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hood switch is common failure
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Old June 9th, 2015, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
hood switch is common failure
Would it matter I never open the hood? Also the doors still lock it just takes two tries.
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Old June 9th, 2015, 08:05 PM
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Do you ever have your alarm going off randomly or have a bonnet open message on the display?
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Old June 9th, 2015, 08:10 PM
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Neither. This just started. Any other ideas?
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Old June 9th, 2015, 08:14 PM
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This used to happen at random on my old LR3. I would just take the switch apart and clean the dust/dirt out of it. Exact same symptoms. Probably the same switch.
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Old June 9th, 2015, 08:20 PM
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which switch?
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Old June 9th, 2015, 08:33 PM
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The hood switch. It is built into the passenger side hood latch Just spray some brake clean or electrical contact cleaner in the latch. I'm guessing you have something else going on. Do you have any way of reading the fault codes? Do you have passive entry?
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Old June 9th, 2015, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
The hood switch. It is built into the passenger side hood latch Just spray some brake clean or electrical contact cleaner in the latch. I'm guessing you have something else going on. Do you have any way of reading the fault codes? Do you have passive entry?
So when I click the locks I hear it fire then there is a delay and then the horn sound then I click again and it works.

I haven't open the hood in forever
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Old June 9th, 2015, 11:37 PM
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I had the same thing on my lr3. There's loads of good info on the disco3 forum. It was the hood switch on mine.
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Old June 9th, 2015, 11:55 PM
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Will try to clean the latch
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Old June 10th, 2015, 06:21 AM
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Hood switch is a very common failure.
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Old June 10th, 2015, 09:01 AM
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I find it odd the hood is attached to the door locks. So the switch is the actual safety hook/spike that holds hood down?
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Old June 10th, 2015, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
I find it odd the hood is attached to the door locks. So the switch is the actual safety hook/spike that holds hood down?
Assumption here is it is the same part for the LR3 and 4.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Hood Switch Removal.pdf (32.8 KB, 36 views)
File Type: pdf Description and Operation[1].pdf (747.7 KB, 31 views)
File Type: pdf 419-01A - Description and Operation.pdf (332.0 KB, 34 views)
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Old June 10th, 2015, 12:23 PM
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Sprayed the catches with brake cleaner. Didn't fix anything. I see I can unplug them (thanks Russell) will play with it tonight.

Question - If the hood catch was bad wouldn't I get a warning the hood was open? And how does it play into door locks?
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Old June 10th, 2015, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Sprayed the catches with brake cleaner. Didn't fix anything. I see I can unplug them (thanks Russell) will play with it tonight.

Question - If the hood catch was bad wouldn't I get a warning the hood was open? And how does it play into door locks?
Yes. It's part of the alarm system. If the hood is open with the doors locked, it sets off the alarm.
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Old June 10th, 2015, 12:57 PM
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Makes sense but in theory wouldnt the doors not lock if it was bad? It just takes two clicks. I will disconnect the plugs and clean. If that doesn't work do I need to go to the dealer or should I just replace the mechanisms?
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  #18  
Old June 10th, 2015, 01:51 PM
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Read about the CLS Operation in the material I provided. It includes a blurb about mislock which is sounds like what is going on:

A mislock occurs if the CJB (central junction box) receives an external lock or superlock request when any hinged panel is ajar, an invalid key is in the ignition switch or the repetition blocking limit for the door latches is reached. To indicate a mislock the CJB (central junction box) uses the horns to produce a 100 milliseconds 'chirp' and withholds flashing of the turn signal lamps.

If a mislock occurs because an invalid key is in the ignition switch or a hinged panel is ajar, the CJB (central junction box) still externally locks any doors that are closed. The closed doors are only externally locked, even if the original request was for superlocking.

If a mislock occurs because a hinged panel is ajar, when the hinged panel is subsequently closed the CJB (central junction box) maintains the current locking state until it receives another external lock or superlock request.


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Old June 10th, 2015, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Read about the CLS Operation in the material I provided. It includes a blurb about mislock which is sounds like what is going on:

A mislock occurs if the CJB (central junction box) receives an external lock or superlock request when any hinged panel is ajar, an invalid key is in the ignition switch or the repetition blocking limit for the door latches is reached. To indicate a mislock the CJB (central junction box) uses the horns to produce a 100 milliseconds 'chirp' and withholds flashing of the turn signal lamps.

If a mislock occurs because an invalid key is in the ignition switch or a hinged panel is ajar, the CJB (central junction box) still externally locks any doors that are closed. The closed doors are only externally locked, even if the original request was for superlocking.

If a mislock occurs because a hinged panel is ajar, when the hinged panel is subsequently closed the CJB (central junction box) maintains the current locking state until it receives another external lock or superlock request.


Makes sense. Will play with the connections then when that doesn't work I will sell the truck.
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  #20  
Old June 10th, 2015, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Makes sense. Will play with the connections then when that doesn't work I will sell the truck.
Before you play with anything, open the hood, place both hands on the extreme front corners (hands spaced all the way apart), and close the hood firmly pressing through. You will feel one corner of the hood kick up a few millimeters (probably the truck's right side) if the latch did not completely engage. Then try closing the hood harder. Don't be a wuss, slam it. $100 this is what is going on. If I am wrong, then I'll pay you the $100 out of my consulting fee that has racked up to $100 so far.
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