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  #21  
Old June 10th, 2015, 02:28 PM
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barry f
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So basically slam the hood. I can do that.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #22  
Old June 10th, 2015, 09:30 PM
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Makes sense. Will play with the connections then when that doesn't work I will sell the truck.
Feeling your pain Barry. I will trade you a pair of awesome Defender rear window screens for your broke LR4. :-)
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  #23  
Old June 10th, 2015, 09:51 PM
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barry f
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Slammed hood.

Didn't fix it
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  #24  
Old June 10th, 2015, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Slammed hood. Didn't fix it
Time to trade. In fact I recall why my wife traded our LR3 for a brand new Grand Cherokee...because she went to get $200 worth of groceries out of the back and the electric latch broke. That was the final straw.
Amazes me these vehicles have such quirky flaws. That issue on yours must be frustrating.
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  #25  
Old June 10th, 2015, 10:12 PM
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If the problem is that consistent and the hood switch is the culprit, you would have a bonnet open message. Do you have passive entry?
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  #26  
Old June 10th, 2015, 10:17 PM
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What is passive entry? I'm passive aggressive
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #27  
Old June 11th, 2015, 05:04 PM
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barry f
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Just checked. I do have passive entry. Don't all LR4s?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #28  
Old June 11th, 2015, 05:12 PM
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If it indeed is the hood switch whatchamathingy, I stripped some 16ga copper wire, jammed it in to short out the switch, and the alarm hasn't gone off, or the honk on locking, since. I did some aluminum foil for a bit, but the wire is a much more permanent fix (because I'm not spending money on a new switch).
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  #29  
Old June 11th, 2015, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JBurt View Post
If it indeed is the hood switch whatchamathingy, I stripped some 16ga copper wire, jammed it in to short out the switch, and the alarm hasn't gone off, or the honk on locking, since. I did some aluminum foil for a bit, but the wire is a much more permanent fix (because I'm not spending money on a new switch).

Well that isn't something I would do. You buy a car that retails for 50 to 60k and cheap out on a 100 buck fix? Seems unwise.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #30  
Old June 11th, 2015, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Just checked. I do have passive entry. Don't all LR4s?
Attached.
Any chance one corner of your hood has a 1/16" of movement when pushed down where the other side does not?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 419-01B - Description and Operation.pdf (161.4 KB, 25 views)
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  #31  
Old June 11th, 2015, 05:16 PM
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barry f
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Hood is down with no movement.
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  #32  
Old June 11th, 2015, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Just checked. I do have passive entry. Don't all LR4s?
Most, but not all. Do all of your doors lock and unlock using the the handle with the key in you pocket? The button locks the door, and putting your hand in the handle unlocks it.
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  #33  
Old June 11th, 2015, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Most, but not all. Do all of your doors lock and unlock using the the handle with the key in you pocket? The button locks the door, and putting your hand in the handle unlocks it.
Will check today
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  #34  
Old June 11th, 2015, 09:36 PM
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barry f
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So with key in pocket the following happens with all doors
1. Press button and doors lock but mirrors don't fold and horn sounds.
2. When I open doors it takes a few pulls to get the handles to engage
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