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  #1  
Old February 13th, 2006, 11:51 AM
RoverWrecks
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Looking for ARB locker installation shop

Does anyone have any recommendation here in Central Florida who can install some ARB lockers?
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  #2  
Old February 14th, 2006, 11:00 AM
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Have you already purchased the ARB's?
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  #3  
Old February 14th, 2006, 09:22 PM
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No not yet
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  #4  
Old February 14th, 2006, 10:09 PM
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GBR will send you one in a 3rd member in a bucket, bolt it on and install the compressor, lines and switch.
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  #5  
Old February 15th, 2006, 09:53 AM
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Mike Hansen
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DYI

http://www.defendersource.com/tech/arb.html

If you buy it from Bill (GBR) he will press new barings on for you
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  #6  
Old February 15th, 2006, 11:00 PM
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That's exactly where I was headed with my first post.
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  #7  
Old December 4th, 2006, 07:20 PM
MonLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhansen
Did anyone do the install in the front? The rear seems fairly easy as you can pull the half shaft. I am curious to know what to watch out for and what is the easiest to do when doing the install on the front diff (i.e. what is the minimum you have to unbolt?)
Winter is here and that seems like a nice garage project.
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  #8  
Old December 4th, 2006, 07:32 PM
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I have yet to find anyone that agrees with me, but I think its easiest to unbolt the entire swivel from the end of the asle tube and slide it out. A nice chunk of 2x4 will hold the swivel out enough for the axles to clear the diff so you can pull it.

Remember that regardless of what you do, you'll probably have to hang the brake caliper up on a piece of wire so you don't stress the brke lines.
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  #9  
Old December 4th, 2006, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Armstrong
I have yet to find anyone that agrees with me, but I think its easiest to unbolt the entire swivel from the end of the asle tube and slide it out. A nice chunk of 2x4 will hold the swivel out enough for the axles to clear the diff so you can pull it.

Remember that regardless of what you do, you'll probably have to hang the brake caliper up on a piece of wire so you don't stress the brke lines.
That is exactly what I did when I installed my dads and my front lockers this last summer. Hint: buy a racheting box end 12 point wrench to take the bolts out.

Cheers
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  #10  
Old December 4th, 2006, 11:54 PM
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I agree with you Keith.
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  #11  
Old December 5th, 2006, 08:25 AM
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Phew, now I feel better

Aaaack, just realized that I've gotta get a trans picked up from JCRover!?

Yup, I'm still a doofus.

KAA
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  #12  
Old December 5th, 2006, 09:26 AM
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Peter Sherman
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I agree as well huge time saver & way cleaner
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  #13  
Old December 5th, 2006, 12:35 PM
MonLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhansen
That is exactly what I did when I installed my dads and my front lockers this last summer. Hint: buy a racheting box end 12 point wrench to take the bolts out.

Cheers
Kewl! :-) I wasn't sure if that was even possible! Definitely seems like a lot of time would be saved.
How strong does the wrench need to be? [i.e. go with a cheap alternative or would a lifetime-warranteed be required]
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  #14  
Old December 5th, 2006, 12:48 PM
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I always use the non-ratcheting Craftsman to break the bolts loose then the cheepie ratcheting box end to take 'em out.

Don't forget the thread locker when you reinstall them ... this means that you'll be cleaning all the goo off the bolts and the holes - I use brakecleen - before assembly.

Note how I assume that everyone's swivels are a dirty as mine ... ymmv

KAA
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  #15  
Old December 5th, 2006, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand
Kewl! :-) I wasn't sure if that was even possible! Definitely seems like a lot of time would be saved.
How strong does the wrench need to be? [i.e. go with a cheap alternative or would a lifetime-warranteed be required]
Go expensive! your not working on a Chevy! Clearance is an issue with the cheapo version, between the bolt head and the axel shaft.

I had to use a small hammer and a regular box end wrench (12 piont) to break the bolts loose. Use alot of PB Blaster every day for week before you start the job.


EDIT
KAA you beat me to the punch!
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  #16  
Old December 5th, 2006, 01:08 PM
MonLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhansen
Go expensive! your not working on a Chevy! Clearance is an issue with the cheapo version, between the bolt head and the axel shaft.

I had to use a small hammer and a regular box end wrench (12 piont) to break the bolts loose. Use alot of PB Blaster every day for week before you start the job.


EDIT
KAA you beat me to the punch!
While I am at it: what type of seal did you use between the swivel end and the axle end? The standard paper version just regular RTV type thing? I am personally puzzled between both..... paper is cleaner in my option, but then RTV never leaks......
RTV is a pain to undo because it really glues things together plus you have to be careful to put the right amount (not enough it will leak somewhere, too much it will go inside where it is not supposed to go). And RTV is typically cheaper (once you factor in the shipping cost of the paper seals.....).
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
Quote:
it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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  #17  
Old December 5th, 2006, 01:27 PM
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I used RTV (Right Stuff Brand) if you use the method of dismounting the swivel ball, you would have to cut the paper gasket anyway to get it around the axel.

It is true you don't want too much squirting on the inside, but how much is too much, and what will it hurt to have it beaded up or globed up inside the axel? The front bearings and CV's are sealed and self contained, lubed with grease / swivel lube, so diff gear oil just has to lube the diff. Unless you modified by removing the inner seal.

When I removed the third member it had a lot of RTV globed around the inside with no ill effects.

One more thing, if you still have front sway bars you will have to take the right side mount to the axel off to remove the swivel ball mounts. Also the tie rod will have to be removed. It is probably bent anyway, so upgrade with one from Keith.óRover Tracks.
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  #18  
Old December 5th, 2006, 01:34 PM
MonLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhansen
One more thing, if you still have front sway bars you will have to take the right side mount to the axel off to remove the swivel ball mounts. Also the tie rod will have to be removed. It is probably bent anyway, so upgrade with one from Keith.óRover Tracks.
I still have my front sway bar. And as I use my truck as much off than on the road, I'll keep it! :-) [What this also means is that I don't drive it enough.....]
I just replaced my tie rod after bending it surfing on a log, so I am not looking in replacing it just yet! ;-) But it might be a good time to sleeve it....... Crap another alignment to do.... :-( Maybe later....
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Quote:
I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
Quote:
it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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  #19  
Old December 5th, 2006, 01:49 PM
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I undo the 7 bolts at the tube as well, however you have to re-loctite them (blue) or they do loosen up. 12mm racheting wrench. Start all the bolts with a non-racheting wrench hitting it with a hammer.
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  #20  
Old December 5th, 2006, 02:54 PM
MonLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhansen
That is exactly what I did when I installed my dads and my front lockers this last summer. Hint: buy a racheting box end 12 point wrench to take the bolts out.

Cheers
What did you do with the brakes? Undo them and then attach them to the spring? Or can you pull enough of the swivel to just allow enough clearance to remove the 3rd member?
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Quote:
I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
Quote:
it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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1996 Discovery NAS
2006 LR3 NAS (hers, but comfy! :) )
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