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Old August 21st, 2016, 07:57 PM
Doctor7474
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Looking at a 1988 90

Hello new here and had some questions.

I'm going to look at a 1988 90 this week and just wanted to know what to look for issues on it.

Ad says 2.5td manual trans and right hand drive. From the pics it's going to need pretty much a total restoration which doesn't bother me.

Let me know what I should look for as major issues that most would shy away from.


My background:
ASE master tech, actually turned wrenches at a local LR dealer for a couple years in the mid 2000's but didn't see many Defenders during that time so I'm not 100% up to speed on them even though o have the factory manuals for them.
ASE/ICar certified body and paint tech.

I know the bodies are aluminum so not too worried about rust ect except the frame and undercarriage components.

Any help thanks.
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  #2  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 06:31 AM
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The Bulkhead is not aluminum unfortunately so you will want to inspect it closely. The T posts between the doors is a sizable project, IMO. Middle doors are getting tougher to find and new ones are pricey. The td is not exactly one of the highly sought after engines but a step up from the 2.5na, in terms of highway manners.
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  #3  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 07:09 AM
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Be careful what you wish for...a total restoration on any Defender can get extremely pricey!

1) Check the frame, outriggers and rear cross-member thoroughly.
2) Do a thorough inspection of the bulkhead inside and out. Typical bad spots to look for are the door pillars, floor boards, upper corners where the windscreen attaches (inside and out).
3) Look under the seat in the battery box compartment to verify no holes through the bottom of the box.
4) Do some research on the 2.5TD 19J engine and you will see many mixed reviews...not the most sought after engine and had it's share of issues but if you find one that has been taken care of and not abused I consider them to be a good little engine. Most important thing to check would be the air filter...pull out the filter an inspect...if the filter is contaminated w/ engine oil bad things are most likely on the horizon...oil will eventually make it to the turbo and cause a runaway engine that will cause it to expire in short order. If oil blow-by is suspected pull the air filter discharge hose (turbo inlet hose) and listen for noise coming from the filter housing...it should be realatively quiet...if you hear what sounds similar to a locomotive going down the tracks than things are not good. FYI...most places stateside do not carry alot of parts for the 2.5TD...something to keep in the back of you mind.
5) Check out the running gear for any exccesive leaks...motor, tranny, transfer, differentials, swivel balls. Most likely you find some leaks which is normal but anything causing big puddles would be a concern. If you find no leaks at all that could also be a concern...if it ain't leaking it's possibly empty.
6) Check out steering components...loose ball joints, bent track rod/drag link, power steering, loose bushings, etc..
7) Check out brake condition...pipes, hosed, resevoir, rotors, drums.
8) Check out clutch/tranny operation...should be smooth w/o clunking.
9) Check out operation of the transer case.

Hopefully everything checks out OK, keeps us posted. Good Luck!
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  #4  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 07:15 AM
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In light of the warnings of the 2.5TD that is in that truck, you can buy 3 or 4 used 2.5TD's for the price of 1 200tdi (the later replacement motor that will bolt in), and there is no gaurantee that the 200tdi won't blow up either.
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Old August 22nd, 2016, 07:27 AM
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2.5td, my second rover engine. Didn't last long even after a fresh rebuild. They are a strech engine basically a 2.5na with a turbo charger. The engine is not made for such a stress.. Check carefully for the air filter (oil). They are heavy breather.

Good luck
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Old August 22nd, 2016, 01:46 PM
Doctor7474
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Thanks all, I didn't know the bulkhead/firewall was steel in them.

Are the floor pans steel as well?

Leaks and such aren't a big concern it's a LR I expect leaks but will make sure everything's in operational condition.

The motor isn't a big deal either thinking 5.3 LS swap in the future seems pretty reasonable to do from what I've read.

It's going to need to be restored it's far from perfect condition so all new gaskets, bushings, ball joints pretty much all wear items are on the list of things to do. I can do everything myself mechanical wise and 90% of the body work if needed I can do everything but paint because I don't have a booth but have friends that could help out in that dept.

My big concern would be that the driveline is in good rebuildable condition and rust to the frame/floor/firewall.
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Old August 22nd, 2016, 02:25 PM
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Doc, the driveline IMO is the easiest to upgrade/repair of keep alive. The chassis, doors and bulkheads are the killers once they start to go downhill. If you like a 2 door 110 you may want to consider a Perentie. Shipping for AUS is cheap, they come with a galvy chassis and a proven drivetrain.
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Old August 22nd, 2016, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Doc, the driveline IMO is the easiest to upgrade/repair of keep alive. The chassis, doors and bulkheads are the killers once they start to go downhill. If you like a 2 door 110 you may want to consider a Perentie. Shipping for AUS is cheap, they come with a galvy chassis and a proven drivetrain.
Removing an Isuzu for V8, and cutting a galvy frame -______-

Many bulkheads on perenties have rust still, just a warning.
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