Longtime lurking newbie looking for a D90 or 110... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 5th, 2012, 09:56 PM
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Kelly
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Longtime lurking newbie looking for a D90 or 110...

And need some advice from the experts. But first, a little personal background...

I've been an early ford bronco owner (5 separate trucks), jeep owner (CJs, LJ Rubicon, and had a JK 4dr Rubicon which had a VM Diesel.) Anyhow, I've been without a toy for a couple of years and have been interested in defenders for a long time. I still love the old broncos, but I've been ready for a rover for quite a while. I guess you could say I've "graduated" from these others trucks....

I know how to turn a wrench, but would like to find a truck I can add some parts to, without having to repair (too often.) I know thats probably an oxymoron with some of these trucks, but I'm hoping that's somewhat possible. So the advice I need is as follows...

Other than rust issues, what do I need to look for pertaining to trouble spots on these trucks? I'm probably going to end up with a D-90, but love the 110s... They're just in a different realm, $ wise. I trail ride some, but will use my rig more for driving to my favorite rivers to fly fish on the weekends. I would like a truck to keep and enjoy, have a wife, kid, and a big dog.... So the 110 would be ideal, but my adventures are usually solo due to my wife being a city girl, little boy being only a year old.

You guys are the experts... Show me the first couple of steps, and I'll go from there.

Thanks in advance..


Kelbo
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  #2  
Old September 5th, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Bill Adams
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Step one:
Buy Chucks '83 110 tdi. A really good solid base truck. That would be smart.
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  #3  
Old September 6th, 2012, 12:01 AM
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  #4  
Old September 6th, 2012, 03:20 PM
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J Phillips
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Definitely check for rust, obviously the rear cross member is the most talked about but where the gearbox crossmember bolts up to the frame as well. Being doing some rust restoration on mine and noticed rust was just taking over behind that crossmember bolt plate. Look for leaks on the pans ( yea they all leak at some point, but you don't want anything starved for oil) Most pan gaskets are easy to replace if you do see minor leaks. Steering box is prone to leak as well. And then of course the oil lines. If they already haven't been replaced with some aftermarket solution, replace them soon ( plenty of other oil line treads to search on)
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Old September 6th, 2012, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmybuffett View Post
Sent you a PM -
Never got the pm.



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Old September 6th, 2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmybuffett View Post
Sent you a PM -
Yeah Tom - saw that on CL - what are you upgrading to?
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #7  
Old September 6th, 2012, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d90xjay View Post
Definitely check for rust, obviously the rear cross member is the most talked about but where the gearbox crossmember bolts up to the frame as well. Being doing some rust restoration on mine and noticed rust was just taking over behind that crossmember bolt plate. Look for leaks on the pans ( yea they all leak at some point, but you don't want anything starved for oil) Most pan gaskets are easy to replace if you do see minor leaks. Steering box is prone to leak as well. And then of course the oil lines. If they already haven't been replaced with some aftermarket solution, replace them soon ( plenty of other oil line treads to search on)
Many thanks.



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  #8  
Old September 6th, 2012, 09:02 PM
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You get what you pay for in these trucks. If you find a good deal you will most probably have to do some work to it. If you pay a bit more you can still find a nice NAS truck that could turn out to be a good runner. The NAS trucks are 15 years old or older and as any 15 year old vehicle will need some TLC unless you are paying good money for it. As mentioned above rust is an issue and can be a costly fix.
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  #9  
Old September 6th, 2012, 11:40 PM
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I came from the CJ world. The item I missed when I bought mine was the floor pans were rusted out in spots. I was lucky in that everything else was pretty clean. In general, check it as you would a CJ: brakes first, which I always count on being shot. I've never had an issue with my 300 Tdi other than the idiot the previous owner paid to installed it. The swivel balls may be pitted, so check those if you're planning on driving it home. Look out for mismatched engines and transmissions - a 200 Tdi or 300 Tdi with an early LT77 may suffer transmission failure. The LT230 leaks about as much as a Dana 300. Heater fan is about as anemic as a CJ's, but I've heard there's an upgrade similar to the CJ's K-10 Blazer upgrade.

The biggest pain so far is the electrical. The aluminum tub and associated corrosion can play havoc with grounds. My temperature gauge still jumps up a bit when the cooling fans turn on.
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  #10  
Old September 7th, 2012, 08:00 AM
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Hey Josh I got my hands on a NAS 110, # 94, so I just threw the 90 out there , need the room and a cash infusion. Either the 90 has to go or if I get desperate I will move my 87 911, which I really don't want to do... When is the next NYC/LI meet up ? Tom
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  #11  
Old September 14th, 2012, 09:45 AM
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Barring any unforeseen reasons...

I'm traveling next Wednesday to pick up my first Rover! Dreamline's D-90 is going to be part of my family now, and I'm really excited. I plan on...

Tune up with stainless oil lines and other needed maintenance
2" lift (prob OME)
new shoes 285s most likely
Arb front with Warn
Rear gas carrier
Tuffy console
Regearing with lockers

Can't wait!



Kelbo
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