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  #1  
Old October 31st, 2012, 02:16 PM
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longer front radius arms?

Saw this picture from Custompinoyrides:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2547/...63475eda31.jpg

After staring/drooling at it a bit, I noticed that the front axle is further forward than normal. So much so that they cut the front wings a bit to clear the 35" tires.

I'm guessing that this is done by installing longer front radius arms.

1. Who, if anyone makes these radius arms?
2. Let's say that the new radius arms move the axle 2-3" forward from normal. How does one handle the offset of the springs on the perches? Is there some kind of spring perch relocation that needs to be done?

Seems like a quick and easy way to stretch the wheelbase of a 90 a bit without going into a full 100 inch build.
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  #2  
Old October 31st, 2012, 02:20 PM
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Move the front spring buckets forward on the frame and install longer radius arms. But then you have to think about the effects on your steering geometry - drag link and steering box binding, longer driveshaft, panhard relocation, etc.
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  #3  
Old October 31st, 2012, 03:38 PM
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FYI,
kits are becoming available here...new longer radius arms, new pitman arm, new correction plates for springs, bla bla bla...

Alternatively, mostly in the UK, Gigglepin arms have been used to stretch the wheelbase, mostly on challenge trucks...they use Johnny Joints at the chassis, and new mounts (old ones must be cutted off).

Alternatively, David "Buck" made his own with a lathe, a welder and stock arms...

P.S.
The Defender in the pic has stock radius arms, and a 3" lift kit.

Here's the specs list:
Specifications and Modifications

1998 Land Rover Defender 90 Pick-Up
300Tdi 2.5 liter diesel engine
5-speed manual transmission
ARB Air Lockers, front and rear
ARB Air Locker air compressor, with tire inflation line
Land Rover Salisbury heavy-duty axle shaft, LH rear
Concept One racing bucket seats, 2 pieces
Concept One 4-point seatbelts, 2 sets
Warn M8274-50 Electric Winch, with 6 HP motor & freewheel winch drum
Scorpion Racing Extreme Suspension Kit
Scorpion Racing Coil Springs +3”
Bilstein Shock Absorbers 5150 Series
Super Pro Polyurethane Suspension Components
Simex Extreme Trekker Centipede Tires, 35 x 10.5 x 16
Discovery Steel Rims, custom bead locks
MJ Lee differential protector, front
Optima Yellow Top Batteries, 2 pieces
Dual battery charging system
Battery cut-off switch
110 ampere alternator
Halogen sealed beam headlights
Auxiliary lights front, 4 pieces
Auxiliary lights rear, 2 pieces
Custom modifications: — winch bumper, roll-cage, roll-bar, skid plate, rear differential protector, front suspension guard, rock sliders, tree sliders, rear lamp guards, recovery swivel hooks, wing top protectors, tree limb risers, raised air intake, swing-out spare wheel carrier, tarpaulin bed top, body panel checker plate protection, heavy duty steering rods, front axle retaining chain, radiator mud screen, jerry can mounting, steering wheel, storage locker.
Ground anchor
Perforated aluminum platform, 2 pieces
Hi-Lift Jack
Shovel
Jerry can
Fire Extinguisher, 2 pieces
First-Aid Kit
Pintle hook rear
Dyneema plasma synthetic winch rope, spare
Two-way radio
On-board video camera
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  #4  
Old October 31st, 2012, 05:51 PM
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RTEs are a bit longer than stock. 5/8 iirc if you go anymore than an inch you're going to be moving everything Jonathan mentioned.
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  #5  
Old November 1st, 2012, 07:44 AM
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Thanks guys...hadn't even thought of the steering mods. I guess one could move the steering box forward a bit also.

I really like the look of the defender with the front wheel moved forward a bit.
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  #6  
Old November 1st, 2012, 08:15 AM
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Oh that would let me steal more leg room I could move the footwell forward. Hmmmm

Thanks for the post
Eric
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  #7  
Old November 1st, 2012, 08:39 AM
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Here you go:

Extended wheelbase kit
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  #8  
Old November 1st, 2012, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Sexy kit, but ouch!

COR4 is the old Equipe by the way.
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  #9  
Old November 1st, 2012, 12:28 PM
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probably easier to cut and weld custom links and coil overs.

or get a disco

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Saw this picture from Custompinoyrides:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2547/...63475eda31.jpg

After staring/drooling at it a bit, I noticed that the front axle is further forward than normal. So much so that they cut the front wings a bit to clear the 35" tires.

I'm guessing that this is done by installing longer front radius arms.

1. Who, if anyone makes these radius arms?
2. Let's say that the new radius arms move the axle 2-3" forward from normal. How does one handle the offset of the springs on the perches? Is there some kind of spring perch relocation that needs to be done?

Seems like a quick and easy way to stretch the wheelbase of a 90 a bit without going into a full 100 inch build.
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  #10  
Old November 1st, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Kang needs a life coach
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  #11  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefhuf
Kang needs a life coach
Or a wifey.
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  #12  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Or a wifey.
no way a wife helps you with these kinds of decisions...well actually she will...she will just tell you no to everything Rover!!!
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  #13  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cube II View Post
FYI,
kits are becoming available here...new longer radius arms, new pitman arm, new correction plates for springs, bla bla bla...

Alternatively, mostly in the UK, Gigglepin arms have been used to stretch the wheelbase, mostly on challenge trucks...they use Johnny Joints at the chassis, and new mounts (old ones must be cutted off).

Alternatively, David "Buck" made his own with a lathe, a welder and stock arms...
Hey,

Sweet! I got a shoutout on D-90 in 2012! I feel warm inside!

The steering angle will soak up a mild push forword. Up to about 2in if I remember. The spring plates would need to be changed or modded to go that far. On mine I lenthened the arms 8in. This won't give much more travel, but it will lower your antidive numbers, which will make the truck perform noticably better off-road. It's a good mod. I was able to get to a true 90 degree approach angle with 40's and a winch.

I miss my truck.
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  #14  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Buck - good to see you on the 90 board again. A couple questions to those with the kit or mod (this would be way down the road for me but always fun to think of cool projects especially since I have been playing with the welder more and more). Anyway:

- With a 2" move of the front axle - is the ride noticibly better?
- How much if any do the fenders need to be cut? Or can you get away with just the fender flares.
- Does the front bumper need moving/modding? Let's say its a Rockware.
-Stock axles can be used but just an adaptor for the spring perches?

A D-95 sounds like it would be pretty potent on the trail and a little longer might be more forgiving around town too.
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  #15  
Old November 4th, 2012, 08:57 AM
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Would using Johnny Joints at the frame connection of the arms be beneficial if the springs are retained? It seems like it wouldn't add much if anything unless they are running with dislocation cones etc. (if I remember correctly, the truck in the link is running cones)
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  #16  
Old November 4th, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearmonkey View Post
Would using Johnny Joints at the frame connection of the arms be beneficial if the springs are retained? It seems like it wouldn't add much if anything unless they are running with dislocation cones etc. (if I remember correctly, the truck in the link is running cones)
You don't get any benefit doing that, other than a more robust connection. The bind takes place in the axle side bushing. A longer radius arm will make that binding less, but so little I doubt you would notice it. I had to mod them to use all of 14in shocks, and even doing that it took a lot of force to use it all during articulation.
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  #17  
Old November 4th, 2012, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s View Post
You don't get any benefit doing that, other than a more robust connection. The bind takes place in the axle side bushing. A longer radius arm will make that binding less, but so little I doubt you would notice it. I had to mod them to use all of 14in shocks, and even doing that it took a lot of force to use it all during articulation.

Is it me, or is this place just warmer & fuzzier with David back?
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  #18  
Old November 9th, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Dave, do you know of a limit on how far the rear axle can be pushed back before the A-frame or A-frame ball joint needs modification? I'm assuming this moving of the rear axle is done with longer rear trailing arms. I guess I just realized that if one can buy a few inches in the front, one could also buy a few in the back.
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  #19  
Old November 10th, 2012, 07:49 AM
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Devon 4X4 makes an extended trailing arm and A-arm extender for their trayback kit which will give you a 100 inch wheelbase. Problem is the rear fuel tank. You would have to extend the frame and tub - or lose the tub and build a trayback.
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  #20  
Old November 10th, 2012, 08:57 AM
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A disco has a 100 inch wheelbase I believe. Would be easier.
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