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  #1  
Old January 13th, 2012, 08:54 PM
pacificwildfire
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William
94 d90
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Lining tub

I am considering lineXing the tub portion of my 90 as the paint is in worse shape than a landscapers pick up bed. I hate to beat a dead horse as I know this has been discussed hear before.

If I only line the tub, are there major drawbacks? The paint on the seat boxes, floor boards, and fire wall is in good shape and rust free.

Would it be a better option to repaint the inside of the tub, and buy a new load mat?

I do drive my truck every day and enjoy it. By no means is it one of theses sub 10k mile trucks attempting to fetch nearly 100k. I have seen some ECR builds where they line the tub, so I don't think it is that detrimental. I realize in using line x or rhino liner there is no going back, which is why I am hesitant and would rather ask a repeated question then regret later.

Any input, or photos of line trucks?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old January 13th, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Paul
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I had the seatbox and tub of my 110 sprayed with linex. In hindsight, I do have a few regrets. Everything was pulled apart during my rebuild so none of the issues of having panels permanently bonded that should not be bonded. It is much rougher and did much less to attenuate sound than I had expected. If I were to do it again, I would get the wright off road seatbox/floor mat for the front and a heavy mat for the rear. In fact I may still do so.
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  #3  
Old January 14th, 2012, 09:04 AM
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Mike
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I just did the tub in the double cab and like it. I had thought about doing it in the tub of the ROW 90 also. I think I would hesitate doing it in the front portion of the cab except for the floor boards, if they were removed and done separately. I would not do it to any part of the bulkhead as I would think it could trap water between the panels and make a bigger problem with rust issues. Prep and proper taping is the big issues in the process. That is as well as the guy who sprays the application.
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  #4  
Old January 14th, 2012, 10:02 AM
Oliver Whiting
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paint vs Rhino

Draw backs are it is expensive. More difficult to clean do to the textured surface. Surfaces must be primed first. If you use Rhino it is a thicker application process and will make fitting panels an issue. I did the inside of my 110 and it is a durable finish but I think I would go the paint route next time and save money.
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  #5  
Old January 14th, 2012, 12:25 PM
pacificwildfire
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William
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Thanks guys for the responses. I am about 99% sure I am going to do it, and keep it confined to just the tub. The rest of my panels are in as good or better shape than most other NAS 90s out there.
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  #6  
Old January 17th, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Andrew
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When I had my 90 rebuilt over in England I wanted to get it Rhino lined but Chris at liveridge recommended not doing it. He says that if it is used for offroading it will crack. The defenders are made to torque and twist and after using it offroad the liner would split in a short period of time. Also he mentioned that it isn't the best sound dampener either. So instead what I had was a good paint job and chequer plating! looks really good and the sound isn't bad too.

here is what it looks like, not mine but identical setup.

http://www.rebel4x4.co.uk/rebel4x4_p...four_large.jpg
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  #7  
Old January 17th, 2012, 12:43 PM
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Bill Campbell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacificwildfire View Post
Thanks guys for the responses. I am about 99% sure I am going to do it, and keep it confined to just the tub. The rest of my panels are in as good or better shape than most other NAS 90s out there.
If you do it, make sure you report back about the results and cost. My F150 came linexed and I have often thought about doing the rover, but just haven't pulled the trigger.

B
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  #8  
Old January 17th, 2012, 01:10 PM
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Danny
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I was in a similar situation when I got mine. The entire back area had been worn down to metal. I taped off what I didn't want to paint and covered first in a spray primer (1 can), then alternating layers of rubberized undercoating, and rustoleum "hammered" grey paint (1 can each). I let it dry/cure for about a week, then I put this -> http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=26951 in as a bedliner and got a piece of remnant carpet (on top of the rubber mat) from a carpet store to "class" it up. I take out the carpet when I'm hauling stuff. I really like how it turned out.
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  #9  
Old January 17th, 2012, 03:33 PM
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I might be in the minority camp, but unless you're using the truck to haul rocks, dead bodies, or medieval weapons, I'm a big fan of just repainting / reclearing the interior of the tub and using a load mat.

Not implying this is you, but one thing about Line-X that bugs me is that it seems often to be an alternative to actually disassembling and painting a truck properly. People spray it on overlapping riveted panels and the result is a box glued together with Line-X.

I would just hate to be the person that has to remove that stuff.
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  #10  
Old January 17th, 2012, 07:51 PM
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Reese
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After spending the weekend removing undercoating from my defender, my vote is Don't do it! Just get some rover paint put in a spray can and repaint. I paid $15 per can at the local auto paint supply. All you need is the LR paint code for your truck. It's easy to touch up. Just my $.02.
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  #11  
Old January 17th, 2012, 08:23 PM
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One word: Horsey.

Horsey, where are you? I'm surprised you haven't chimed in here.
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  #12  
Old January 17th, 2012, 09:18 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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What if you were to disassemble and Line-X each component separately? I'm planning a full disassembly, chemical dip and respray. I was considering doing the seat box and tub in Line-X just like Steven (SafariResto) recently did. Bad idea? I do wheel it so I don't want it to crack. Checker plate is not an option for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos
Not implying this is you, but one thing about Line-X that bugs me is that it seems often to be an alternative to actually disassembling and painting a truck properly. People spray it on overlapping riveted panels and the result is a box glued together with Line-X.

I would just hate to be the person that has to remove that stuff.
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  #13  
Old January 17th, 2012, 10:31 PM
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I don't buy the whole LR body will/should flex when off road. If it is flexing then your chassis is flexing (a very bad thing) or the body is not firmly affixed to the chassis (another bad thing). If you fully disassemble and have each piece sprayed separately, then you'll avoid the issues of having all of the panels "glued" together. I like the way the linex turned out on mine well enough, it's just that for sound insulation a complete set of heavy rubber mats would be better.
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  #14  
Old January 17th, 2012, 10:43 PM
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I don't buy it either but I don't have enough experience with the material to know enough. How durable is it? I would do the tub and seat box, perhaps footwells as well but I would still use Dynamat and insulated liners/mats on top.
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  #15  
Old January 18th, 2012, 08:32 AM
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dont do it. The tub will always look dirty, doesnt add any real sound deadening and if you do resell it, it will take away value IMHO

use a heavy duty mat
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  #16  
Old January 18th, 2012, 09:03 AM
Oliver Whiting
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NO

I agree with Ron, it will always look dirty. I have done it to two Defenders now and it is expensive to do and it always looks dirty. In fact the only way to really get it clean is hit it with a pressure washer.

I would not us Rhino as it has to be built up in layers in order to get any durability out of it. Line-X or Speed liner go on much thinner and are far more durable. Line-X and Speed liner will not crack, in fact Speed liner has something like 4500 psi tensile strength. It will hold the Rover together.

It will all fade if exposed to sunlight unless a UV additive is used. This may have changed since I did my last vehicle but you should ask.

I will not do it again.
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  #17  
Old January 18th, 2012, 09:58 AM
pacificwildfire
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William
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I haven't done anything yet. Again though, I am not looking to do the whole interior, just the from the bulkhead bar back. I would also start the lining back from the tub seam so removal of the whole tub would not be a problem.
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