LHD Clutch Master & Slave Replacement - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 25th, 2013, 09:30 PM
javelinadave
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LHD Clutch Master & Slave Replacement

It doesn't look difficulty to do but I keep reading about taking the wing off. If I'm removing the entire peddle assembly and the nuts are captive, why does it need to come off? What can't I get to with the wing in place?
Any other gotcha's I should look out for?
Thanks.
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  #2  
Old December 25th, 2013, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
It doesn't look difficulty to do but I keep reading about taking the wing off. If I'm removing the entire peddle assembly and the nuts are captive, why does it need to come off? What can't I get to with the wing in place?
Any other gotcha's I should look out for?
Thanks.
There's a thread somewhere on this, that I contributed to.

Answer: NO don't take the wing off. DO remove the bolts from the brake pedal tower so you can move it over, then you can get the entire clutch assembly out. Doing it this way, took me about an hour first time total...really wasnt bad at all. I spent more time reading & dreading it than I did actually doing it. Then when done, I thought "oh that's really not too bad".

But again, take the entire clutch pedal assembly out to do it...once the brake pedal assembly is pushed out of the way you'll need to just twist the clutch assembly as you remove and it'll come right out.
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  #3  
Old December 25th, 2013, 09:54 PM
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Thanks Jason. I couldn't see the logic in removing the wing.
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Old December 25th, 2013, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
Thanks Jason. I couldn't see the logic in removing the wing.
Here's the prior thread...post #7:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...=Clutch+master
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  #5  
Old December 25th, 2013, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
It doesn't look difficulty to do but I keep reading about taking the wing off.
No need to remove the wing.
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  #6  
Old December 26th, 2013, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
It doesn't look difficulty to do but I keep reading about taking the wing off. If I'm removing the entire peddle assembly and the nuts are captive, why does it need to come off? What can't I get to with the wing in place?
Any other gotcha's I should look out for?
Thanks.
Once your pedal assembly is loose, with 99% of LHD Defs you will notice that there is no way it can come out of the car. There is simply no room. So you then will have to either take the brake booster out, or mod the firewall hole, or... you've guessed it, take the wing off.

Or you might be one of the lucky ones which have enough room to wiggle the pedal assembly out. I wouldn't bet on it. Be prepared.
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  #7  
Old December 26th, 2013, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santiago Montenegr View Post
Once your pedal assembly is loose, with 99% of LHD Defs you will notice that there is no way it can come out of the car. There is simply no room. So you then will have to either take the brake booster out, or mod the firewall hole, or... you've guessed it, take the wing off.

Or you might be one of the lucky ones which have enough room to wiggle the pedal assembly out. I wouldn't bet on it. Be prepared.
My experience doing this a couple of times is that if you just unbolt the brake booster and simply slide it to the side it buys you JUST enough room to get the clutch pedal assembly to twist and come out.
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  #8  
Old December 26th, 2013, 10:21 AM
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What's the best brand of parts to use? TRW? Delphi?
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  #9  
Old December 26th, 2013, 10:25 AM
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I bought TRW from Trevor. I hope it's the preferred brand.
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  #10  
Old December 26th, 2013, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
My experience doing this a couple of times is that if you just unbolt the brake booster and simply slide it to the side it buys you JUST enough room to get the clutch pedal assembly to twist and come out.
Exactly. It is completely unnecessary to remove the wing.

It also helps to modify a couple of 1/2" or 13mm open end wrenches to fit the adjustment of the clutch master rod nuts. I specifically use the right length piece of wood to hold the petal down, clamp the rod in place with needle nose vice grips so it can't spin, then adjust away.

Piece of wood also comes in handy if you are bleeding by yourself to hold the petal down.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #11  
Old December 26th, 2013, 10:41 AM
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Robert,
What are your thoughts on reverse bleeding with a pump oil can?
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  #12  
Old December 26th, 2013, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
Robert,
What are your thoughts on reverse bleeding with a pump oil can?
I think that if you verify that the clutch master will squirt fluid before you install it, conventional bleeding will work fine.

The MGA & MGB is another story.
Years ago had a cleaned out 90wt gear oil qt container with a vacuum hose stuck on the end.
Would crack the bleeder slightly and attach the hose with the 90wt container filled with brake fluid hanging on a wire higher than the clutch master. Then the next step was to loosen the line at the clutch master. The fluid would fill the slave, then the hose and line eventually dripping out of the loosened line at the clutch master. Tighten the clutch master line and fill the reservoir... a few bleeds later and good to go.

Don't see why this wouldn't work with a Land Rover if you want to bleed bottom up, but never used an oil pump can.
Key is to keep air out, so it might work if the air could escape from the top out of the loosened line at the clutch master.
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #13  
Old December 26th, 2013, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
I bought TRW from Trevor. I hope it's the preferred brand.
That's what I was planning on getting, probably after the new year.
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  #14  
Old December 26th, 2013, 01:40 PM
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I installed a Delphi clutch MC about 16 months ago, it failed recently so I went with TRW this time. So far so good.

This last time it took only about an hour to do the job. I didn't even bother to bleed the new MC. The air worked its way out within a few miles and all is good.
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Old December 26th, 2013, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
I think that if you verify that the clutch master will squirt fluid before you install it, conventional bleeding will work fine.

The MGA & MGB is another story.
Years ago had a cleaned out 90wt gear oil qt container with a vacuum hose stuck on the end.
Would crack the bleeder slightly and attach the hose with the 90wt container filled with brake fluid hanging on a wire higher than the clutch master. Then the next step was to loosen the line at the clutch master. The fluid would fill the slave, then the hose and line eventually dripping out of the loosened line at the clutch master. Tighten the clutch master line and fill the reservoir... a few bleeds later and good to go.

Don't see why this wouldn't work with a Land Rover if you want to bleed bottom up, but never used an oil pump can.
Key is to keep air out, so it might work if the air could escape from the top out of the loosened line at the clutch master.
Forgot to mention that the container had a hole in the bottom which became the top when turned upside down. This let air in as the fluid filled up the clutch hydraulics. I think an oil pump can would work as long as it isn't designed to let air into the can outlet between pumps so the fluid can escape.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #16  
Old December 27th, 2013, 09:44 AM
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Removing the wing will take a little more of time, but it will make your life much much easier.
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Old December 29th, 2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
Removing the wing will take a little more of time, but it will make your life much much easier.
Worked in the Land Rover dealership as a mechanic back in the 70s during college summers and have had Land Rovers ever since.

Have owned Series I, II. IIA, III, 90 and 110. Have replaced numerous clutch masters and have never removed the wing. IT IS A WASTE OF TIME.
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #18  
Old December 29th, 2013, 02:55 PM
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TRW is the way to go. I can't tell you how many Delph and other brands I've had to go back and replace the 2nd time for clients. Good luck and don't take the wing off unless you really want to see what it looks like off the truck!
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  #19  
Old January 8th, 2014, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Roverchef View Post
TRW is the way to go. I can't tell you how many Delph and other brands I've had to go back and replace the 2nd time for clients. Good luck and don't take the wing off unless you really want to see what it looks like off the truck!
The TRW unit I received (brand new in box) came with jacked up threads so the hydraulic line couldn't be attached. I pulled a 26 year old factory master out and I am now going to order a new factory master from RN. Looks like TRW quality isn't there any more.
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  #20  
Old January 9th, 2014, 11:34 AM
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Was there a thread adaptor involved in your install?
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